kstall
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- Feb 22, 2021
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So i ordered new plugs and the extraction tool just in case any break off. We will just hold off til next week when all that comes in and tackle it all at once. Stay tuned
Make a 50/50 solution of acetone and ATF. Fill the holes where the plugs are and soak as long as possible. At least overnight. Remove the solution. This should/may help with the removal of the plugs without them breaking.So i ordered new plugs and the extraction tool just in case any break off. We will just hold off til next week when all that comes in and tackle it all at once. Stay tuned
What's wrong with putting anti-seize on the threads ?? Marine grade never seize is rated for a stupid high temp..used in jet engines.The one tip this old timer can give you all about the plugs in our early 3 valves is to pull them periodically and check them. When I was running at the track I would pull them before and after every session. Now that she is retired from racing they come out about once a year. It is not as important as it used to be with all of our on-board diagnostics and stuff, it's more about old habits with me. I don't necessarily read them like we used to but it will give you a chance to clean them up a bit and reapply anti-seize to the plug barrels, and this will prevent any crazy carbon build up or issues with galling between the heads and plug threads (do not put anti-seize on the threads). Just a couple of words of wisdom from someone who has never had a plug breaking issue.
I fully understand that your car is a 2006.This is for an 06 model
Mostly because the anti-seize works as a lubricant and then the plugs get over tightened-even though it feels like less resistance to the ratchet. This can cause the porcelain to crack from the metal shell distorting during tightening.What's wrong with putting anti-seize on the threads ?? Marine grade never seize is rated for a stupid high temp..used in jet engines.
I'm thinking once he has the new Brisk, one piece plugs installed....put some never seize on the threads...or is that a big no-no ?
Thanks for that info. I really appreciate it. I'll gap em at .054" roll with it. With any luck we will doing the install ThursdayI fully understand that your car is a 2006.
I will attempt to simplify this:
There was no recommendation for an '06 because you are supposed to use the spark plugs out of the box and the gap is not considered adjustable.
Therefore, there is no recommendation for spark plug gap for a 2006 Mustang GT.
In mid 2008, Ford stopped using their stupid design that heavily shrouded the flame front and redesigned the spark plug tube to a superior design that uses a spark plug that the gap can be adjusted on and eliminated that area where deposits built up and made them extremely difficult to remove between the threads and the spark plug tip.
Since the spark plug gap can now be adjusted, Ford recommended a gap of 0.054" for all the later models that use a nearly identical motor.
The car will still run with a gap as small as 0.022" and as wide as 0.065", determining what is ideal will take some guess and test.