08gtlarscar Build Progress

EBABlacknChrome

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Where did you put the 40's at. Before the axle or atfer?

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08gtlarscar

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Well we have very similar set ups. Yes, those sound so good with the 40 series as well as the 4.6 4v cobras.

Exhaust clips are soooo hard to gauge things by. Any changes in the intake/engine/exhaust department can make the same muffler sound totally different.

I am actually leaning more toward the super 10 as I like my current 40's but they are still a little quieter than I am looking for.

It's a 1 vs 2 chamber and is about half the size of the 40 as well as a delta series.

I don't think it will be over the top loud but no cats will louden them up a bit, I think the outlaws are going to be a little too raw for my liking but I picked up the catback system for a ridiculous price and it is brand new.

I will be using the catback pipes from the system and will just throw up the axleback outlaws on ebay if I decide on the 10's or 40's as I don't have permissions to sell here yet.

I have a sound I am looking for I just need to find the right muffler for my setup.
 

06JET

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Have you given the Roush Extreme a listen. I am very happy with mine and it will definitely wake up the neighbors. It is different than the Flowmasters.
 

08gtlarscar

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Have you given the Roush Extreme a listen. I am very happy with mine and it will definitely wake up the neighbors. It is different than the Flowmasters.


My current setup is almost what I am looking for, the headers and offroad h opened up the exhaust to make the 40s louder than before but it still has the oem catback pipe that Ford crimps down over the axle.

After some talk with flowmaster and a highly regarded exhaust shop here in vegas I think the super 10 will probably be my setup while using the new catback pipe from the outlaw kit I purchased ( catback kit ).

This will be LOUD but how LOUD is the question, installing them is the only way I will know for sure with my setup.

I am def looking for that old fox body 40 series sound and the roush extreme and outlaws have a more raw/no muffler sound as they are basically a tuned resonator.

I will have vids of the one I choose in a few weeks..idle as well as some flybys..I am not into revving the hell outta my motor at idle bouncing off the rev limiter so you wont see vids of THAT :angry1:
 

08gtlarscar

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Should be home Tuesday to start on suspension/watts link install.Heading to Cali then bounce back to LV for hometime.

Will get the Super 10s and catback pipes installed on Friday and hope to make my 1st Cars & Coffee appearance in Las Vegas.

Not sure if any members go there but looking forward to hanging out and mingling with other car buffs again.

I miss my San Diego hangouts back in the late 80's early 90's. I will be making my way down to SD this year,I haven't been there since 1994.

Next month I will be detailing the car in and out, a claybar treatment and 3 coats of Pinnacle wax.I treat all my plastics with CarWorx Refinish Restorer as well.
 

RocketcarX

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I am def looking for that old fox body 40 series sound and the roush extreme and outlaws have a more raw/no muffler sound as they are basically a tuned resonator.
Mid mount 40 series are the only way to achieve that, a rear mount muffler just can't do it. That's why I still run stock mufflers even with no cats and long tubes, just sounds classic.
 

08gtlarscar

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Mid mount 40 series are the only way to achieve that, a rear mount muffler just can't do it. That's why I still run stock mufflers even with no cats and long tubes, just sounds classic.


I will never get the exact sound I am looking for but my current setup is very close..it is just not quite loud enough for me.

I have always preferred a louder exhaust and the drone from the flowmasters have never bothered me.

I know the 10's will be closer to the 40 sound versus the outlaws, thats why I ditched those already on Fleabay. There just isnt any louder 40s as the super 40 series are delta flow which quiets em down vs what I am looking for. Even the 10 is a delta flow but it is only 1 chamber so I know it should be louder than the 40.

I will find out Friday as I am doing suspension mods 1st then the exhaust, using the catback pipes from the outlaw system.
 

RocketcarX

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I will never get the exact sound I am looking for but my current setup is very close..it is just not quite loud enough for me.

I have always preferred a louder exhaust and the drone from the flowmasters have never bothered me.

I know the 10's will be closer to the 40 sound versus the outlaws, thats why I ditched those already on Fleabay. There just isnt any louder 40s as the super 40 series are delta flow which quiets em down vs what I am looking for. Even the 10 is a delta flow but it is only 1 chamber so I know it should be louder than the 40.

I will find out Friday as I am doing suspension mods 1st then the exhaust, using the catback pipes from the outlaw system.
The original 40 series is what you want, mid mounted. 1 chamber Flows sound nothing like a 40 series. Run an H pipe, not an X as well.
 

08gtlarscar

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Completed all suspension mods and exhaust this past week, but not w/o a few issues.

Tokiko D spec frt/rr with Ford P springs and GT 500 mounts and new snubs from Ford installed without any issues. Also installed the extenders on the rear shocks for ease of adjustment.

The Whiteline Watts link install went good, all lined up and fresh Dino in the diff ( Eaton TT ) as I completed the break in and only wanted to open it up once.

Front and Rear WL sway bars installed and the rear has a few issues.

Instructions on the rear install are mish mash as they have changed what comes in the kit, spacers/ bushings.. I have the new style bushings (black). The lack of torque specs was annoying and I will be upgrading the hardware next hometime to get proper torque on all bolts. One nut stripped on one of the ubolts so I will be looking for grade 8 u bolts and nuts before next hometime.
I torque EVERYTHING and that ubolt nut should not have stripped !!

Car aligned w/o issues will recheck again in 1-2 months ( not sure if the P springs settle or not )

Switched to Amsoil in the motor with a fresh Ford Racing fliter and changed out the tranny fluid for what Tremec has recommended when I called to inquire, Mobil 1 ATF to the fill hole.

Exhaust......Had to have the wife go back on Wednesday as the exhaust pipe from H pipe was hitting the trunk frame area.

I went with Super 10's mounted in stock location with 4 " SS tips and new Flowmaster catback pipe.

Kooks with catless H and Super 10's...I am extremely happy with my choice. Sounds great and IS LOUD.

Exhaust does set off car alarms and is louder in the car than the 40's I had.

At idle it is fairly loud but once on the throttle these babies scream. It is just what I was looking for, wife says its a bit loud but she loves the sound.

Couldn't make C&C but will def be there next month.

She is taking new pics and videos but it has been windy and she is waiting for the wind to die down for a good video.

Also bit the bullet and ordered new taillights. Raxiom Vectors as I have been on the fence as I know they have had issues and I am NOT a Raxiom fan.

Should have pics and vid up this weekend, wife says tommorow looks good.

Paxton install soon......
 

08gtlarscar

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Was getting good weight transfer after installs but I need to take some vids and see how the rear is reacting as it may be too soft in back.

MM relo brackets and MM lcas went in as well. Went with hole 1 for setting and Zero wheel hop with a 4500 dump and car hooked extremely well.

Both sway bars set soft and front struts full soft as well as rear shocks.

Just need to tinker the setup and run some track times.

Installs are done for a few months as my next round of mods for the Paxton install is next on the agenda.

Flywheel/clutch/t/o bearing, gt 500 pump,injectors,tb all next mods to be completed 1st.
 

08gtlarscar

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Here are some comparison pics/vids after the suspension and Super 10 installs

flomaster 40's


Super 10's

kLor8m8.jpg

before

pq3zz9B.jpg

after

EMMfmbo.jpg

before

ww0yDZK.jpg

after

s8PSD4W.jpg

before

aEmjieo.jpg

after

mJOEGsH.jpg

before

FBAsGZv.jpg

after

AFOHvsu.jpg

before

xWEMGPa.jpg

after

stance is much better and new exhaust tips fit the openings better
 

08gtlarscar

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Next month will be some minor details that need completing.

New CF door handles were installed and I am waiting on the fuel door CF vinyl, just a few touches to carry over into the interior.

1/4 window trim is at the paint shop and will be installed next month as well as new raxiom vector tailights with red diffusers which will be at the house tommorow ( gonna walk thru the install with the wife and have her install and take pics )

These tailights have had issues in the past and I have been waiting for the fix AM says there have been 2 revisions the latest was in June 2017, WE SHALL SEE

That will complete all my mods for the visual aspect exterior and interior.

Next will be more of what this site is about, making POWER !!

As much $$ as I currently have in my mods to date I am considering just spending the extra coin and forging the motor along with the Paxton install.
 

RocketcarX

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Instructions on the rear install are mish mash as they have changed what comes in the kit, spacers/ bushings.. I have the new style bushings (black). The lack of torque specs was annoying and I will be upgrading the hardware next hometime to get proper torque on all bolts. One nut stripped on one of the ubolts so I will be looking for grade 8 u bolts and nuts before next hometime.
I torque EVERYTHING and that ubolt nut should not have stripped !!

I have the newest version of the rear WL sway bar, it doesn't come with any torque specs, how are you deciding what torque values to loose?

The way the bar works doesn't require the hardware to be tightened with a gorilla, I think that's why this bar gets so many mixed reviews. If you are really worried tack weld the brackets in place, any muffler shop can do it for you cheaply. Leave the u-bolt after tack welding it and you're good to go.
With that said mine installed with zero issues, the u-bolts tightened up perfectly and nothing stripped or pulled, again I believe most folks that have this issue are just over tightening the u-bolts.
 

08gtlarscar

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I have the newest version of the rear WL sway bar, it doesn't come with any torque specs, how are you deciding what torque values to loose?

The way the bar works doesn't require the hardware to be tightened with a gorilla, I think that's why this bar gets so many mixed reviews. If you are really worried tack weld the brackets in place, any muffler shop can do it for you cheaply. Leave the u-bolt after tack welding it and you're good to go.
With that said mine installed with zero issues, the u-bolts tightened up perfectly and nothing stripped or pulled, again I believe most folks that have this issue are just over tightening the u-bolts.

At 30 Ft/lbs one nut stripped on the drivers side U bolt.

I think mine was the newer version also as they had greaseless black bushings and 1 big spacer in each endlink.

If it has a torque spec I use it if not I have a torque sheet with bolt size/ grade for spec
 

08gtlarscar

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plain & dry .020 3/8 grade 5 ..31 ft /lb

23 lubed
26 zinc/threadlock
31 plain/dry
 

RocketcarX

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plain & dry .020 3/8 grade 5 ..31 ft /lb

23 lubed
26 zinc/threadlock
31 plain/dry

The hardware is zinc coated 30 ft-lbs is past the recommended range, but I have a better theory.
I don't believe you can achieve a real torque value against the U-bolt bracket. Since it's not like a main cap against a solid surface, or backed up with a support or sleeve coupled with the having to draw the two sides up I don't think you could ever really get an accurate torque reading.
 

08gtlarscar

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The hardware is zinc coated 30 ft-lbs is past the recommended range, but I have a better theory.
I don't believe you can achieve a real torque value against the U-bolt bracket. Since it's not like a main cap against a solid surface, or backed up with a support or sleeve coupled with the having to draw the two sides up I don't think you could ever really get an accurate torque reading.

Thats a very good possibility as I knew it was zinc coated but not having a value from whiteline I went with the plain/dry spec being a ubolt vs a reg bolt/nut.

I torqued them evenly at 15 1st then went to 30. One side torqued fine the other on the last nut stripped.

I wouldn't think such a small difference would have caused a failure but obviously I fucked up.

I will be hitting fastenal for new hardware next hometime.

Did you torque the ubolts or just snug them up? I just dont want them rotating/loosening.

Why no torque value from WL is a mystery to me.
 

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