09-10 cmcv removal

[TheCrowdPlow]

Within a week I'm gonna be getting my 2010 GT properly tuned at a reputable local dyno shop. I'm thinking now is the time to remove the cmcv plates that are built into the 2009 and 2010 intakes. I also know that Steeda has discontinued the plug kit they made for these intakes. My plan is just to tap and thread in a bolt into the back holes on each side of the intake that separators the outside and inside air.

My question is do I need to plug up each hole that is in between each intake runner that the cmcv rod ran through? Or can I leave the holes open. Only reason I can think of for plugging the holes in between each runner is maybe when the holes are open they will cause turbulence in the runners? If I need to plug the holes in between the runners too, can I just use epoxy?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Yes, it's preferable to plug up all the holes between each runner. I used quick steel epoxy on my home made CMCV delete plates and it worked great. If the material around the holes is aluminum, the epoxy will stick to it just fine and turn solid enough to need a chisel to get it out again. Just give it 24 hours to properly cure and then sand the excess down to a smooth finish.

The original assembly:


The pieces I removed:


The finished product:


I've also uploaded a file with instructions on how to perform the conversion.
Note that you'll need a CMCV delete tune to get the best performance from this mod.

 

[TheCrowdPlow]

Yes, it's preferable to plug up all the holes between each runner. I used quick steel epoxy on my home made CMCV delete plates and it worked great. If the material around the holes is aluminum, the epoxy will stick to it just fine and turn solid enough to need a chisel to get it out again. Just give it 24 hours to properly cure and then sand the excess down to a smooth finish.

The original assembly:
View attachment 79509

The pieces I removed:
View attachment 79510

The finished product:
View attachment 79511

I've also uploaded a file with instructions on how to perform the conversion.
Note that you'll need a CMCV delete tune to get the best performance from this mod.

Thanks for the quick reply, since my cmcv plates are made as 1 piece in the plastic intake, do I just use regular epoxy then or what?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Use quick steel epoxy if the material around the holes is aluminum, or regular epoxy if it's plastic composite.

 

[TheCrowdPlow]

Ok will do, thanks so much.

 

[Badd GT]

I have a 09-10 manifold with the steeda delete plugs already installed on the shelf in the garage that I would sell you if you are interested

 

[TheCrowdPlow]

I have a 09-10 manifold with the steeda delete plugs already installed on the shelf in the garage that I would sell you if you are interested

I'd rather just do it myself, save some money, also I'm in Canada so not worth shipping it across the border assuming you're from the states.

 

[Badd GT]

I'd rather just do it myself, save some money, also I'm in Canada so not worth shipping it across the border assuming you're from the states.[/QUOTE
No problem good luck

 

[RED09GT]

I have the steeda plugs in mine and I also epoxied them in place so that there were no air leaks between cylinders.
My car has been like that for 11 years and has seen up to 18 lbs of boost. The epoxy is still somewhat translucent but noticeably darker than when it was new. I'll be reusing it when the motor is back together.
The steeda plugs are nothing special so you could probably use pieces of ready rod or a stud of some sort to fill the gaps and then use epoxy to seal them in and you'd pretty much end up with the same thing.

 

[Kev555]

Yes, it's preferable to plug up all the holes between each runner. I used quick steel epoxy on my home made CMCV delete plates and it worked great. If the material around the holes is aluminum, the epoxy will stick to it just fine and turn solid enough to need a chisel to get it out again. Just give it 24 hours to properly cure and then sand the excess down to a smooth finish.

The original assembly:
View attachment 79509

The pieces I removed:
View attachment 79510

The finished product:
View attachment 79511

I've also uploaded a file with instructions on how to perform the conversion.
Note that you'll need a CMCV delete tune to get the best performance from this mod.

Thanks Dino for the guide as it came in handy to locate those pins that hold the CMCV shafts in.

 

[GriffX]

I'm curious what your results were. I lost 2 MPG in city an gained 2 tenth on my rolling start test strip (got similar results to a BMW 335i R6 bi-turbo)

 

[Kev555]

I have the base tune installed but I think I'm heading for a revision tune as Lito (Manuel) thinks its running rich a bit but that could be down to the wrong octane of fuel still in the tank from last year. Personally I find throttle response much livelier and a lovely new sound from the exhaust with maybe a bit of a flat spot low down on the revs. Just have to empty tank and get some fresh 95 in it to see how its responding with the data log. MPG will have to come later down the line when she's at her sweet spot. I'm happier with them CMCV,s removed as who knows with a car on 110K I wouldn't want her swallowing any of those bits after rebuilding it last year. I removed them as they were throwing up a fault code and hence the tune was required.