160,000 miles and still going... 2014 GT

gbauer

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So I just hit 160k on my Coyote 14. Only mods are a GT500 axel-back and AM wheels.

Just thought I'd give my experience to date.

Problems so far:

First winter: when the car was cold it shifted like crap (manual). Drained the fluid and put in Royal Purple. Problem solved.

Around 45k miles the diff seal went. Dealer fixed it under warranty.

Right front wheel bearing went out around 120k miles. No big deal. Ordered one from American Muscle, put it in, it failed before I got home, went to Autozone and they actually had one in stock for half the price. 40k miles later it's still good. AM refunded me.

At 155k lost power and threw a code. I was close to home but instead drove it to the dealership. #4 coil pack was bad. They diagnosed and replaced it for $325. Can't complain there. I had thought the worst and it wasn't bad.

Between 120k and 160k I had intermittent dying at idle. Couldn't figure it out. Changed the plugs, cleaned the MAF, checked for vacuum leaks... nothing. Last weekend I was talking with a friend of my wife's who used to work for Ford as a master mechanic and he told me the F150's Coyote's had the same issue from time to time. He said it required the dealership to do a software relearn on the idle position sensor. Googled it figuring there had to be another way and found out that just putting the key in ACC without starting it until all the lights go away allows the position sensor to relearn. Fixed the problem completely! As a bonus my throttle is far more responsive and I'm getting about 2 mpg better gas mileage. Not too bad for 10 seconds of "work".

Of course I have the corrosion on the front lip of the hood. I've sanded it and touched it up but it's still an issue. Doesn't look bad from 10 feet but I know it's there.

The other cosmetic issue is the rear decklid panel. Replaced it with one from AM.

All that is pretty minor when you consider that mechanically I've only spent around $400 for non-maintenance items.

The car has the premium sound system, nav, heated leather seats, etc. Only things it doesn't have are backup camera, cooled seats (is that an option?), and sunroof. It's pretty loaded and a nice place to spend 40-50k miles a year in.


Anyone who sees the car is shocked that it has so many miles. The seats are still in like-new condition, the paint, other than the front corrosion and minor road rash, is still in great shape, and it drives like the day I bought it. So far it has been one of the most reliable cars I've owned. Even still on the original clutch!


Future plans: I'll probably just keep maintaining it as I go for another 2 or 3 years. it seems to be able to take the miles. The engine has every bit as much power as new and the under side shows no rust anywhere. Might lower it but, then again, I might not with the miles I drive.

Eventually I plan on building a Cobra kit car and will likely take the drivetrain out, rebuild it if necessary, and use it in an AC Cobra replica. Who knows how many miles she'll go in the end?
 

JJ427R

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Great story there, another fine blue oval vehicle..... Oddly enough I just turned over that mileage on my 03 E250 wheelchair accessible van and have done nothing to it other than a radiator hose, serpentine belt,and general maintenance items like tires and brakes. Every other part is still original including the starter.
Had my ac recharged this summer for the first time as well. Issue I'm starting to have is the underside stuff is all starting to rust badly now.
 
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WJBertrand

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Thanks for the great post. I’m approaching 60K and it’s nice to know I’ve got lots more in her.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

ghunt81

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How are your leather seats holding up? My car has 102K and since last year the driver's seat bottom has had a split right in the middle, as well as a spot on the left bolster has worn all the way through the leather.

Need to replace it but damn used seats are expensive, even cloth ones.
 

gbauer

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How are your leather seats holding up? My car has 102K and since last year the driver's seat bottom has had a split right in the middle, as well as a spot on the left bolster has worn all the way through the leather.

Need to replace it but damn used seats are expensive, even cloth ones.
Mine are pretty much like new still.
 

JJ427R

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How are your leather seats holding up? My car has 102K and since last year the driver's seat bottom has had a split right in the middle, as well as a spot on the left bolster has worn all the way through the leather.

Need to replace it but damn used seats are expensive, even cloth ones.
I would try to find a good upholstery shop near you and have em' redone instead of buying new seats. A good shop should be able to replace what you have or you can do your own design if you want.
 

justin73

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I’ve got a 2010 mustang gt witn 166000 miles on it. The only problems I’ve had is a pulley on serpentine belt was going out and replaced the back brakes. And have changed the spark plugs twice just maintenance. But been all around awesome car.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

LarryJM

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Lots of junkyards still want $5000 for a 150,000 mile Coyote out of a GT.
 

Shaggy

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So I just hit 160k on my Coyote 14. Only mods are a GT500 axel-back and AM wheels.

Just thought I'd give my experience to date.

Problems so far:

First winter: when the car was cold it shifted like crap (manual). Drained the fluid and put in Royal Purple. Problem solved.

Around 45k miles the diff seal went. Dealer fixed it under warranty.

Right front wheel bearing went out around 120k miles. No big deal. Ordered one from American Muscle, put it in, it failed before I got home, went to Autozone and they actually had one in stock for half the price. 40k miles later it's still good. AM refunded me.

At 155k lost power and threw a code. I was close to home but instead drove it to the dealership. #4 coil pack was bad. They diagnosed and replaced it for $325. Can't complain there. I had thought the worst and it wasn't bad.

Between 120k and 160k I had intermittent dying at idle. Couldn't figure it out. Changed the plugs, cleaned the MAF, checked for vacuum leaks... nothing. Last weekend I was talking with a friend of my wife's who used to work for Ford as a master mechanic and he told me the F150's Coyote's had the same issue from time to time. He said it required the dealership to do a software relearn on the idle position sensor. Googled it figuring there had to be another way and found out that just putting the key in ACC without starting it until all the lights go away allows the position sensor to relearn. Fixed the problem completely! As a bonus my throttle is far more responsive and I'm getting about 2 mpg better gas mileage. Not too bad for 10 seconds of "work".

Of course I have the corrosion on the front lip of the hood. I've sanded it and touched it up but it's still an issue. Doesn't look bad from 10 feet but I know it's there.

The other cosmetic issue is the rear decklid panel. Replaced it with one from AM.

All that is pretty minor when you consider that mechanically I've only spent around $400 for non-maintenance items.

The car has the premium sound system, nav, heated leather seats, etc. Only things it doesn't have are backup camera, cooled seats (is that an option?), and sunroof. It's pretty loaded and a nice place to spend 40-50k miles a year in.


Anyone who sees the car is shocked that it has so many miles. The seats are still in like-new condition, the paint, other than the front corrosion and minor road rash, is still in great shape, and it drives like the day I bought it. So far it has been one of the most reliable cars I've owned. Even still on the original clutch!


Future plans: I'll probably just keep maintaining it as I go for another 2 or 3 years. it seems to be able to take the miles. The engine has every bit as much power as new and the under side shows no rust anywhere. Might lower it but, then again, I might not with the miles I drive.

Eventually I plan on building a Cobra kit car and will likely take the drivetrain out, rebuild it if necessary, and use it in an AC Cobra replica. Who knows how many miles she'll go in the end?

Cool story. My favorite part is this:

"Between 120k and 160k I had intermittent dying at idle. Couldn't figure it out. Changed the plugs, cleaned the MAF, checked for vacuum leaks... nothing. Last weekend I was talking with a friend of my wife's who used to work for Ford as a master mechanic and he told me the F150's Coyote's had the same issue from time to time. He said it required the dealership to do a software relearn on the idle position sensor. Googled it figuring there had to be another way and found out that just putting the key in ACC without starting it until all the lights go away allows the position sensor to relearn. Fixed the problem completely! As a bonus my throttle is far more responsive and I'm getting about 2 mpg better gas mileage. Not too bad for 10 seconds of "work"."

I like hearing about this easy, quick fixes!
 

gbauer

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Well I typed this whole thing up too soon it seems... luckily I think this'll be a cheap and easy fix as well but darned if I can find it!

The AC doesn't seem to be draining properly. I can run the fan with no AC and have plenty of air movement. If I turn on the AC it slowly lessens until there's no air movement at all. Turn off AC and run the fan for an hour and I have air blowing again. Gotta be a clogged condensate drain line.

I got under the car to clean the drain hose but cannot find it. Searched on here as well. No dice. I heard its somewhere near the center of the car at the firewall but can't find anything.

Any pointers? Anyone have a pic of where the darn hose is?
 

gbauer

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Thanks but I'm still not seeing the drain from the stuff inside the car.
 

stkjock

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you looked at the additional manual links on the left of the page?
 

ox white

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At 160K I'd be suspect of every single suspension part on the car. Leading edge of the hood corrosion is common on the 05-12 cars, but on the 13/14 cars it's set back and has a rubber seal. The leading edge is the bumper cover. Got a 14 GT too. No hood rot.
 

gbauer

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At 160K I'd be suspect of every single suspension part on the car. Leading edge of the hood corrosion is common on the 05-12 cars, but on the 13/14 cars it's set back and has a rubber seal. The leading edge is the bumper cover. Got a 14 GT too. No hood rot.
The corrosion is only above the headlights.

Suspension feels just fine, actually. I'm mainly on the highway so I don't abuse the car much.
 

Juice

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My junkyard takeout 5.0 had 75,000 claimed by the seller. It is now coming up on 100,000. I will be running it till something breaks or it starts burning oil excessively. I read an article on the design of the coyote, but in a nutshell, longevity under racing conditions was one of the main criteria by the Ford engineers.
 

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