2007 Mustang GT Turbo Build List - Did I forget anything?

[raredesign]

My build was held up for various reasons, but now I'll be going at it shortly.

Can you please take a look at the attached PDF and let me know if there is anything I am overlooking aside from suspension?

Thanks.

 

[46addict]

Nice list. Are you building on the stock block? You may want to decide if you want to replace the oil pump and/or do billet pump gears while it's apart. And with the FRPP manifold, you won't need the delete plates.

 

[raredesign]

Nice list. Are you building on the stock block? You may want to decide if you want to replace the oil pump and/or do billet pump gears while it's apart. And with the FRPP manifold, you won't need the delete plates.

Thank you! Good catches. I forgot to pull the delete plates from the list as I plan on selling them.

Yes, stock block, so oil pump and gears are a good idea. That shouldn't cost too much I hope. I'll have to look around.
I have a local guy that has the torque plates to bore and hone it perfect.

 

[46addict]

The gears alone are $200 from what I see. But you can make that back from selling the delete plates. FWIW BruceH did not use torque plates for boring and honing. I'll have to read the older threads to double check, but his setup held up without torque plating.

 

[raredesign]

Thanks. Well, since it is available to me, I figure I might as well. Hoping this setup will see 850rwhp. We'll see.
Edit: TSS OPG's would be sufficient in a stock pump correct?
http://www.jpcracing.com/tss-3v-billet-oil-pump-gears/

 

[weather man]

Make sure you have the right wrist pins for HP goal.

 

[raredesign]

What do you think of this kit?
http://www.teamjdm.com/jdm-298e-2005-2010-3v-mustang-stroker-rotating-assembly/

I'll ask them tomorrow which wrist pins.
Edit: They are Total Seal

Here are a few things according to JDM:

• They are conservative with their ratings so it would hold over 1000hp
• The tech stated they use 9.8:1 in many of their boosted applications running ~20PSI.
• The pistons are only available in stock or .020+, so they recommend just going straight for the .020. --- Will this greatly weaken my walls for this kind of horsepower?

^ any of this sound reliable?

 

[roberts]

Line lock to do burnouts!

Like said above. TSS Oil Pump Gerars.

 

[raredesign]

Line lock to do burnouts!

Like said above. TSS Oil Pump Gerars.

Good thought. I was looking at the SLP kit. Not sure if that is as good as any or not. Just a solenoid so probably can't lose.

 

[roberts]

I got the slp one and no problem yet.

 

[raredesign]

Glad to hear. It's going on the list along with the billet OPGs.

 

[ROUSH06GA]

I would keep the stock headers, but would change out the harmonic balancer ATI or IW while you got the timing cover off for OPG. Spend the header money on HB. How much rwhp you wanting?

 

[raredesign]

Thanks for the suggestions.
Actually the list is stuff I already bought so I have the headers. I didn't think about an hb. I have a very well known performance motor shop in the area building my motor, and he will balance the rotating assembly. What will I gain from a different harmonic balancer?

My goal is to hit 850rwhp

 

[RED09GT]

With drag radials and a manual transmission the spider gears in the stock carrier will definitely be the fuse in your driveline. I'd step up to a tru-trac or better.

 

[raredesign]

With drag radials and a manual transmission the spider gears in the stock carrier will definitely be the fuse in your driveline. I'd step up to a tru-trac or better.

I think I'm going to just do the carbon fiber disc rebuild for now since they are only $100, and once I know it is all solid, maybe get it or similar. My worry is two-fold. Apparently it is very noisy and knocks, and it too may not handle the power too long.

 

[Marble]

I think I'm going to just do the carbon fiber disc rebuild for now since they are only $100, and once I know it is all solid, maybe get it or similar. My worry is two-fold. Apparently it is very noisy and knocks, and it too may not handle the power too long.

You're going to spend your money twice. The carbon fiber clutches will go out and you will have to rebuild. The tru trac is quiet and holds power.

 

[raredesign]

How has your experience been running them? I found some threads where others were discussing the noise and early wearout in the first year.

 

[RED09GT]

How has your experience been running them? I found some threads where others were discussing the noise and early wearout in the first year.

Much of the rest of your list increases the NVH of your car so I would not worry about clunking or ratcheting noise from a differential on an 850 rwhp car. If 850 rwhp cars were that easy to build and that easy to live with, we'd all be making at least that much.

If you plan on racing it, those carbon fiber clutches might give you a couple extra burnouts over the stockers before they pack it in but the spider gears are still going to bite it and you'll likely be buying a new ring and pinion as well when they do. I wouldn't even waste my time pulling the diff to put the carbon fiber clutches in unless I was down to my last $100 and the stock clutches were completely shot.

 

[raredesign]

You're probably right. I can't seem to find a better alternative except the e-locker. I only plan on enough races to get a good time for my board at car shows which is our main focus with this.

The McLeod is supposed to be a very stock sounding clutch so shouldn't have rattling. Running on demand boost with the controller should keep it manageable when needed so I don't know where any other rattles or knocks would come from.

At least the truetrac wouldn't be as bad as the locker.

Thank you both for your recommendations on this.

 

[tigerhonaker]

You're probably right. I can't seem to find a better alternative except the e-locker. I only plan on enough races to get a good time for my board at car shows which is our main focus with this.

The McLeod is supposed to be a very stock sounding clutch so shouldn't have rattling. Running on demand boost with the controller should keep it manageable when needed so I don't know where any other rattles or knocks would come from.

At least the truetrac wouldn't be as bad as the locker.

Thank you both for your recommendations on this.

raredesign,

I have no idea what will really hold up on your Mustang but let me share a thought with you.

I have a 2008 Bullitt Mustang and they come from Ford with the GT-500 rear-end-assembly.

Some years ago I had a great deal of problems with trying to change rear-end-gears.

I finally had enough and ordered a complete Ford GT-500 Rear-End-Assembly from American Muscle.

They come with 3:73 gears.

Recently I had the rear-end-gears changed to the Ford Racing 4:10 Gears.

I'm mentioning this to you to simply say there are a heck of a lot of GT-500 Mustangs with running the power level both of us have at the rear wheels.

You might want to at least think about this as I have never had any issues at all with mine since buying it new in 2008 and it now has like 57K miles on it.

Just something maybe for you to take into consideration and just so you know I don't have ANY (Noticeable-Noise) coming from the Ford Racing installed 4:10-Gears.





Terry