2013 gt500 6 piston brembos

[Paul.]

Since all my stuff just arrived, I thought this might be useful info for people who want details on the complete kit from LRS.

Here's a copy/paste from my build thread:

Soooo, Latemodel Restoration Supply (LRS) put the '13 Shelby GT500 brakes on sale, and I couldn't help myself...

When the new Shelby Brakes came out, the cheapest you could get them was through Tousley Ford, who had the fronts for about $1285 (if you knew all the part numbers) and the rears for about $525, so it was about $1810 plus shipping. When Latemodel Restoration first put them up for sale as a complete kit (fronts and rears) they were $2299. I was ready to buy them from Tousley, but decided to wait a little bit because I didn't want to shell out the coin.

Then, a couple weeks later, LRS dropped the price to $1699 for the whole kit, which is a ridiculous price for this setup. As of today, the price has already increased to $1895, so I defnitely "got while the gettin' was good." I ordered them on Thursday, June 13th along with all the stuff I needed for install. (like diff fluid, brake fluid, gaskets, etc) To make things even better, I used a 5% off coupon, so the total order (including all that extra stuff) was $1695.71 SHIPPED. :mrgreen:

Here's the breakdown:
- (2) Bottles Motorcraft Brake Fluid - $14.99
- (2) Bottles Royal Purple 75w90 Gear Oil, plus Motorcraft Friction Modifier - $44.99
- (1) Lube Locker 8.8 Rear Diff Gasket - $24.99
- (1) Ford M-2300-T Brake Kit - $1699.99
- 5% Discount Coupon (minus $89.25)
- Total = $1695.71

The brake fluid, diff fluid, and gasket all arrived prompty on Wednesday, June 19th. They are shipped by LRS. The brake kit is shipped via a freight company directly from Ford, and obviously takes a little longer. After a little delay because "the truck driver had exceeded his daily DOT hour limit" I got the brakes today, the 22nd. They were supposed to arrive yesterday. Anyway, I'm excited as hell, so here's all the stuff.

Here's the big ol' box that it comes in, on a pallet. This box is HEAVY.

Lots of stuff inside there:

Here's all the stuff in the crate plus all the fluids I got earlier from LRS.

Another shot:

Dust Shields, brake lines, front rotor boxes, brake fluid and friction modifier:

Boxes full of calipers and anchors:

Diff fluid, new bolts, front brake lines, rear rotor boxes:

Front rotors. These things are shockingly large in person. (and freaking heavy!) It's nice that they're coated both around the center of the hat, and on the edges where the vanes are. They won't rust like crazy and look ugly.

15" and 32 pounds. Each.

Rears are 13.75" and XX pounds.

Boo yah. Front and rear calipers, and rear anchor brackets. I need to paint or powdercoat those rear anchors so they don't rust and look like crap. It looks like there was a little bit of moisture in the box, because one of the anchors already had a little rust on it.

Again - pictures don't do these things justice. They are so freaking huge.

Quick-change pads. Just pull the pins. Pretty cool.

Made it Italy, just for FoMoCo.

An attempt to show how big these calipers are:

Here's the whole front setup:

As a public service, I weighed everything so everyone knows what kind of weight they're adding when putting these things on. I'll also weigh all my old stuff when I pull it off. I used my bathroom scale, so these numbers are obviously just approximate.

- Front Rotors: 31.6 lbs, each
- Rear Rotors: 15.8 lbs, each
- Front Calipers: 16.6 lbs, with pads, each
- Rear Calipers 9.4 lbs, with pads, each
- Rear Anchors 5.0 lbs, each
- TOTAL WEIGHT: 156.8 Pounds

I suspect these will be substantially heavier than the stuff that comes off. Now I need to get a hold of some paint, sandpaper, brembo stencils, and prep stuff. I want to paint these 2000 Ford Mustang Sunburst Gold, with black lettering, and high-gloss clear. I might also buy a GT500 rear diff cover since I have to open the diff and pull the axles anyway. I might install a GT500 rear diff cover too, and an adjustable panhard bar since I have to pull mine off for the install. That would get my axle centered in the chassis, which would be nice. Finally, I need to ge those rear anchors powdercoated black - I might just do that myself in the garage since they're already pretty close to being ready for coating - just a little light blasting to take the rust off.

Either way, I'm really excited about this. I'm pretty confident you can't get this much braking power at a better price anywhere. This will ensure I can always stop safely in the grocery store parking lot, and impress the ricers with wheels the size of my brakes.

More to come on this project later...

Paul.

 

[JAJ]

Looking at the picture, it looks like you have 2 quarts of differential lube. The rear axle takes about 2.4 quarts. I got caught out on this myself the first time I changed mine. The Motorcraft chemicals manual says 1.8 quarts, but the owners manual says 5.25 pints, and the owner's manual is correct.

 

[Paul.]

Thank you for the heads up. I've heard I should be using 75w140 weight oil anyway, so I may just return this stuff.

 

[ArizonaGT]

You can leave the front brake "dust shields" in the boxes; the only reason they exist is because Ford was federally-mandated to have them for the 2013 GT500.

 

[Mountain]

You can leave the front brake "dust shields" in the boxes; the only reason they exist is because Ford was federally-mandated to have them for the 2013 GT500.

Don't forget about the tie-rod ends... The race cars, from what I know, have a high temper version. Even at that, I've seen teams put some shielding on the tie rods anyway.

I say, you paid for them, you got them; so, use them. Why not take the precaution? The don't weigh a lot and they shouldn't degrade brake performance. If you are gonna run brake ducts, then leave them in the box.

 

[JAJ]

The "dust shields" are mis-named: they're "rod-end heat shields". They put a layer of sheet metal between the brake rotor and the rod-ends. They don't cover anywhere else.

 

[ArizonaGT]

Good points there.

 

[Chris1229]

Does anyone have any thoughts about this kit yet? I am about to place a order with late model restorations, but I don't know if I need the 15" 6 piston or if I should just stick with the 14" 4 piston setup that everyone had gone with for years. My car will be mostly street driven but it will see the strip, and a couple of autocross events at least 5 times a year. So if anyone has any advice as to which kit I should get will be greatly appreciated!!

 

[Mountain]

Does anyone have any thoughts about this kit yet? I am about to place a order with late model restorations, but I don't know if I need the 15" 6 piston or if I should just stick with the 14" 4 piston setup that everyone had gone with for years. My car will be mostly street driven but it will see the strip, and a couple of autocross events at least 5 times a year. So if anyone has any advice as to which kit I should get will be greatly appreciated!!

From what I have gathered autocrossing, going to some track days and seeing how my car does (13.2" fronts) and talking to BOSS/Brembo Mustang owners and just a few guys who road race, the 14", 4-pot fronts will do fine. If you are worried about it, get cooling ducts. The 15", 6-pots really shine if your serious about track days or road race.

My car is a daily driver in weather above 30F and I do a lot of autocross and a few track days... I will be going with the 14", 4-pots and cooling ducts for track days.

 

[Chris1229]

From what I have gathered autocrossing, going to some track days and seeing how my car does (13.2" fronts) and talking to BOSS/Brembo Mustang owners and just a few guys who road race, the 14", 4-pot fronts will do fine. If you are worried about it, get cooling ducts. The 15", 6-pots really shine if your serious about track days or road race.

My car is a daily driver in weather above 30F and I do a lot of autocross and a few track days... I will be going with the 14", 4-pots and cooling ducts for track days.

Thank you that really clears things up for me. What rotors, and pads will you be going with?

 

[steveespo]

My advice for drag racers and auto crossers is don't bother with the big 15" Brembo kit. You can spend $1800 in much better ways to increase your performance. Even road racers can do well with the 14" Brembo setup. I love the big brakes as the larger rotor mass and larger pad area seems to give me more consistent lap after lap performance especially on brake intensive circuits. Wheel selection is limited and I still am waiting for someone to prove out an 18" rim that will work up front.
Steve

 

[Chris1229]

My advice for drag racers and auto crossers is don't bother with the big 15" Brembo kit. You can spend $1800 in much better ways to increase your performance. Even road racers can do well with the 14" Brembo setup. I love the big brakes as the larger rotor mass and larger pad area seems to give me more consistent lap after lap performance especially on brake intensive circuits. Wheel selection is limited and I still am waiting for someone to prove out an 18" rim that will work up front.
Steve

I understand where you are coming from, I am not a serious competitor with the autocross, and drag racing. I love both sports, but I do not have the funds to be serious in either of these sport. But so far from the responses I have gotten I will be going with the 14'' setup. Should I run the kit as it comes or should I change the lines, pads, and rotors?

 

[zquez]

Well if you don't already have the 4 pots, why not just go straight for the big kahuna? If you don't do the rears you're talking about a $290 difference. When you decide you want to upgrade later you'll end up losing money. Unless you already have a set of 18" track wheels and a whole host of other upgrades you don't want to re-do, get the six pots.

If I had a blank slate right now that's what I'd be doing. I'm happy with my 4 pots with a good set of pads, but things can always be better. I'll be making the transition sooner or later.

Get the six pots and don't look back.

 

[Chris1229]

Well if you don't already have the 4 pots, why not just go straight for the big kahuna? If you don't do the rears you're talking about a $290 difference. When you decide you want to upgrade later you'll end up losing money. Unless you already have a set of 18" track wheels and a whole host of other upgrades you don't want to re-do, get the six pots.

If I had a blank slate right now that's what I'd be doing. I'm happy with my 4 pots with a good set of pads, but things can always be better. I'll be making the transition sooner or later.

Get the six pots and don't look back.

Late model restoration, sells just the front 15" 6pot without the rears for $1400 thought that was a good deal!! http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-2120AK

 

[zquez]

Late model restoration, sells just the front 15" 6pot without the rears for $1400 thought that was a good deal!! http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-2120AK

EXACTLY!!! Pull the trigger man. Don't bother with the 4 pistons Brembos.

As a matter of fact, I wouldn't be surprised if For makes the 4 piston setup standard on all 2015 Mustangs. If you're gonna upgrade be future proof with it and get the best.

 

[JAJ]

My advice for drag racers and auto crossers is don't bother with the big 15" Brembo kit. You can spend $1800 in much better ways to increase your performance. Even road racers can do well with the 14" Brembo setup. I love the big brakes as the larger rotor mass and larger pad area seems to give me more consistent lap after lap performance especially on brake intensive circuits. Wheel selection is limited and I still am waiting for someone to prove out an 18" rim that will work up front.
Steve

The FRPP website says the 18" BBS's will fit. Is that not the case? You have your choice of 9.5, 10 and 10.5.

 

[zquez]

The FRPP website says the 18" BBS's will fit. Is that not the case? You have your choice of 9.5, 10 and 10.5.

Those wheels are PRICEY though. $$$$$

 

[Shotokan1509]

Also remember, bigger brakes are more rotating mass which actually decreases your acceleration, so going for biggest is best when dont really need that braking is actually detrimental. That being said, I dont need them but still wish I had them!

 

[steveespo]

3 things and I'll shut up
You can get the fronts from tousely as service parts for $1200 shipped, if you don't order the Ford pads it's $1000. Aftermarket pads right now are only available as the Lexus IS-F 2010 shape, also a Mercedes Benz AMG used this caliper. The pads are narrower than the Ford pad by 5/16" but still have 25% more surface area than the 4 piston stock Brembos. I run Carbotech XP 20, they are $325 a set shipped and work awesome.

Added weight will hurt not help in drag, autocross competition. In road racing they definitely are a step up, no fade and better pedal feel when hot.

18" wheels are still a ? for me. The Ford Racing BBS wheels are $600 each and I tried an 18x10 off of a friends car at the SVT Superfest and couldn't get it on. Now I must admit we were rushing be causing he had to get out on track, but I am not quite sure they clear. The problem is the ends of the caliper hitting the barrel, the face of the caliper clears the spokes on my 19" 302S wheels better than the 4 pots did. Blowfishh Racing has an 18" wheel from Team Dynamics that he thinks will clear but I am waiting to seethe test pics before committing. The are good looking, light and can be custom sized. $400 each.


Steve

 

[Chris1229]

3 things and I'll shut up
You can get the fronts from tousely as service parts for $1200 shipped, if you don't order the Ford pads it's $1000. Aftermarket pads right now are only available as the Lexus IS-F 2010 shape, also a Mercedes Benz AMG used this caliper. The pads are narrower than the Ford pad by 5/16" but still have 25% more surface area than the 4 piston stock Brembos. I run Carbotech XP 20, they are $325 a set shipped and work awesome.

Added weight will hurt not help in drag, autocross competition. In road racing they definitely are a step up, no fade and better pedal feel when hot.

18" wheels are still a ? for me. The Ford Racing BBS wheels are $600 each and I tried an 18x10 off of a friends car at the SVT Superfest and couldn't get it on. Now I must admit we were rushing be causing he had to get out on track, but I am not quite sure they clear. The problem is the ends of the caliper hitting the barrel, the face of the caliper clears the spokes on my 19" 302S wheels better than the 4 pots did. Blowfishh Racing has an 18" wheel from Team Dynamics that he thinks will clear but I am waiting to seethe test pics before committing. The are good looking, light and can be custom sized. $400 each.


Steve

Edit: I read his message wrong deleted my question lol