298....tr6060.....67mm@20 psi.....in progress!

[probercr93]

^ I remember you talking about these turbos, they look to be bad ass to me. How on earth can you get them 200-300 cheaper than straight from comp lol.

I get dealer pricing. I can sell them 2-300 cheaper than comp and still make a small profit. And I can sell them much cheaper than any turbonetics or precision.

ok sorry op we'll get back on subject... So who do you plan on havin tune your car?

 

[one eyed willy]

decided to send it off, should have it back by the weekend...been hearing some pretty awful things about precision and thier quality control....sent it to another shop who is familiar with their work, they are going to rebuild and add just upgrade some of the parts over the precision stuff....

 

[one eyed willy]

turbo will be back monday!

i was told i do NOT want to run a restrictor.....i was even told that the #3 line im using for oil feed is very boarderline at our PSI......and i should switch to a #4......

i bought this turbo used, and the damage had already been done from day one when it was installed. the rear (exhaust turbine) bearing was toast, thats where the oil-ring is at that seals up the exhaust from the oil....well i guess all that heat caused the oil-ring to die as well.....

im guessing the reason i would see lots of smoke @ cruising speeds would be the high oil PSI vs the low exhaust pressures, so it was easy for the oil to push its way past the seal.

for you guys running restrictors, you may want to rethink that.....you may be fixing your smoking issue for now, but its going to cost you your turbo in the long run....your starving the turbo/bearings of oil.....which is going to lead to perminant damage to the turbine shaft that can not be repaired......the oil is there to lubricate as well as cool. when that rear bearing gets hot, it damages the shaft AND the oil-ring, so the less oil you run, eventually the oil-ring will fail and issue will get worse and worse.....just a heads up.

 

[one eyed willy]

 

[rford426]

So is it fixable or trash

 

[JeremyH]

So is it fixable or trash

Its always fixable.

Of course precisoin is going to tell you not to run a restrictor especialy for warranty sake. Then again most cars put out 40-50psi of oil pressure max compared our our 80-90psi.

I would leave the -3 an line and give it a shot without a restrictor and see how it does, but I have a funny feeling the oil will start pushing its way back through rather quickly. My cast 67 was fresh from precision with brand new seals and it started smoking a 2-3 days after being on the car with no restrictor (and I used a blanket). The billet 67 was brand new and started smoking really really bad 3-4 days after being on the car even with the .065 restrcitor. Put on the .040 and its way better but still smokes a little so if there is enough pressure to still push past the seals a bit then there is definetly enough to cool and lube the center catridge.


After all this fun my next turbo is going to be oil-less, I just need $2k.

 

[one eyed willy]

So is it fixable or trash

Its always fixable.

barely....it was VERY close to needing a new shaft....which would have made the rapair bill not worth repairing....

Of course precisoin is going to tell you not to run a restrictor especialy for warranty sake. Then again most cars put out 40-50psi of oil pressure max compared our our 80-90psi.

this was not from precision, it was from the guy who rebuilt it, his shop is called supernatural turbos in alabama.....alot more cars than you think put out 80-90 PSI...some even more. precision would not be recomending running no restrictor if they really needed them....

I would leave the -3 an line and give it a shot without a restrictor and see how it does, but I have a funny feeling the oil will start pushing its way back through rather quickly.

im leaving the #3 but not using any restrictor.....oil does not push past that seal until the seal is broken, meaning the seal will hold just fine at well over 100PSI until the seal has been weakened by the heat....after it gets weak it will loose its shape and start to leak.....

My cast 67 was fresh from precision with brand new seals and it started smoking a 2-3 days after being on the car with no restrictor (and I used a blanket). The billet 67 was brand new and started smoking really really bad 3-4 days after being on the car even with the .065 restrcitor. Put on the .040 and its way better but still smokes a little so if there is enough pressure to still push past the seals a bit then there is definetly enough to cool and lube the center catridge.

you either had a bad seal from the factory or it didnt get broken in good....your turbo is going to live a short life with that restrictor. your starving the hell out of it....believe me or dont....ive heard from a few different people now that precision has gone downhill in the past year...

if i were you, since yours is under warranty i would send it in now before the warranty runs out.....

 

[Fallenauthority]

Ugh, got me all worried now, I will be receiving my Precision Billet 6262 on Monday, the guy I got it from just sent it to precision for an inspection and they replaced the oil seals in it, seals will have 0 miles when I get it. I run the feed line from the ON3 kit, which I believe it is -03AN, with a -10 an drain line.

 

[one eyed willy]

Ugh, got me all worried now, I will be receiving my Precision Billet 6262 on Monday, the guy I got it from just sent it to precision for an inspection and they replaced the oil seals in it, seals will have 0 miles when I get it. I run the feed line from the ON3 kit, which I believe it is -03AN, with a -10 an drain line.

you will probably be fine, just make sure you break it in correctly....first 150 miles do not go into boost, give it some time to oil it up good before making the turbo go into high RPMS.....also, the kind of oil you use is a HUGE deal in making a turbo last....valvoline VR1 10w30 i was told is about the best off the shelf stuff you can use.....and mobile1 is about the worst for turbos.

 

[Fallenauthority]

I run royal purple 5-20. I have never heard of breaking in a turbo, Ive been in the DSM game for several years and not once have I heard of a need to break in a turbo. But if thats what I have to do to keep it safe I guess that is what I will do.

 

[rford426]

I wanna hear back from wild bill about diesel oil for turbod cars!

 

[Fallenauthority]

A lot of people run rotella 15-40. Its really good for turbo vehicles. I just don't use it cause I believe it is too thick for the phasers

 

[one eyed willy]

I run royal purple 5-20. I have never heard of breaking in a turbo, Ive been in the DSM game for several years and not once have I heard of a need to break in a turbo. But if thats what I have to do to keep it safe I guess that is what I will do.

some so no break in is required, all i know is the guy who built mine is very much a true proffesional and i trust everything he says when it comes to turbos....so i will follow his advise....the goal on the break in is to get a few heat cycles on the new parts, let them cool a few times.....this conditions the seals before just going WOT.....im not risking damage to this turbo so ill give it a shot.

 

[one eyed willy]

I wanna hear back from wild bill about diesel oil for turbod cars!

valvoline vr1 is good stuff! i used to use it on the last motor as well 10w30 is about the thickest you want to go on a mod motor.

 

[JeremyH]

Ive been running 10w40 full synthetic valvoline for past year, it has done very well and I still run vct.


There is no break in sense of miles or rpm limitations. But a few heat cycles wont hurt, But then again thats what normal driving does its not like your in boost 24/7. So you are really breaking it in with out realizing it. The temp of the turbo is much cooler just sitting idling or cruising. Then when getting into boost it will heat it up, then cruise and let it cool for a few minutes etc. So just drive it on the street a couple times before you go to the track really. And that first time you drive it (after you have been boosting) make sure and let it sit/idle for a few mintues to cool properly before shutting the car off.

 

[one eyed willy]

There is no break in sense of miles or rpm limitations.

ill stick with what the expert who built it told me...lol...he said he sent a break in sheet with it, ill post that up after i get it.

 

[JoshK]

I am running mobil 1 5-20 in my car. Why do you say that is no good for turbos?

 

[Fallenauthority]

I know Mobil has gone down in quality the past few years, but I still believe it is fine, still much better than a conventional of course. All I used in my previous vehicles was Mobil, and I used it in my 400whp DSM, never hurt the turbo on that and I ran that stuff for years and I ran that car HARD.

 

[JoshK]

I think it is a good oil and I am going to continue to use it, esp. since where I work we are a mobil dealer so I get a pretty good discount.

 

[Fallenauthority]

The only reason I use RP is because I get a hookup at the local pepboys because I use the store account for where I used to work and RP is cheaper than M1 with my discount