4.6L 3V Build

[tmcolegr]

I probably should have worded my original post to indicate that I am planning on running 10W-30 even after break in.

My bearing clearances are .002" to .0022"

 

[US-1]

Yeah...you better run 10-30 with it all set that tight.

 

[Boozshey]

I just was reading through your sig... what are you doing with the JDM shortblock when you are done?

 

[one eyed willy]

I just was reading through your sig... what are you doing with the JDM shortblock when you are done?

i think hes putting it in his car....

 

[tmcolegr]

the JDM rotating group in my signature reflects my current build

 

[Boozshey]

oh, my bad... Then it isn't a JDM Stroker it's a TMC Stroker...

 

[tmcolegr]

Yeah...you better run 10-30 with it all set that tight.

Please elaborate as you have far more experience on this issue than I do

 

[tmcolegr]

oh, my bad... Then it isn't a JDM Stroker it's a TMC Stroker...

Yeah I guess so. JDM supplied the rotating group but I performed the machine work and labor to disassemble & assemble. Technical expertice supplied by JDM & SD Wheeler.

 

[US-1]

You're setting things a little on the tighter side so you can run the thinner oil. If you had the side clearance wider or the bearings a bit more loose then you'd have to go with 20-50 synthetic.

No big deal. You're doing fine.

 

[tmcolegr]

Thanks for the advice on the lash adjusters. Installing the roller followers was still a PITA.

I will prelube the engine as per your recommendation next weekend

 

[US-1]

Thanks for the advice on the lash adjusters. Installing the roller followers was still a PITA.

Yeah. Pushrod engines seem almost "day care-ish" after building a modmotor.

 

[tmcolegr]

Prelubing the engine.

The engine was slowly rotated as it was prelubed to prime the lash adjusters

All lash adjusters primed

One thing that did concern me, but may be perfectly normal, is that the RH chain at times would develop slack and then the tighten back up. After reading through several other threads I assume thats normal??

 

[tmcolegr]

Installing the front seal in the timing cover

Permatex 82180 Ultra Black sealant for the head to block joints

Tming cover installed. All bolts torqued to 18 ft. lbs.

 

[tmcolegr]

Installing the stock oil pan using the same Permatex 82180 Ultra Black sealant on the front cover and rear seal plate to block joints

Oil pan gasket installed with the tabs facing down (or up in this case as the engine is upside down)

Oil pan bolts torqued to 18 in. lbs, then 15 ft. lbs + 60*

Magnetic drain plug installed - torqued to 19 ft. lbs.

 

[tmcolegr]

Replacing the 3L3Z-6C535-AA VCT solenoid seals in both valve covers

One last look under the valve covers, coat the cam lobes with clean engine oil and apply the same Permatex 82180 Ultra Black sealant to the front cover to head joints

Both valve covers installed. Bolts torqued to 89 in. lbs.

 

[US-1]

One thing that did concern me, but maybe perfectly normal, is that the RH chain at times would develop slack and then the tighten back up. After reading through several other threads I assume thats normal??

Yup.

 

[tmcolegr]

New 9L8Z-6G004-C Cylinder Head Temperature sensor installed. Correct torque is only 89 in. lbs. Be VERY careful as the engine specs. call for 19 ft. lbs. which is incorrect and you will break this sensor

RH Cam position sensor installed - bolt torqued to 89 in. lbs.
Note: Ford does not sell the o-ring for this sensor separately.

LH Cam position sensor installed - bolt torqued to 89 in. lbs.
Note: Ford does not sell the o-ring for this sensor separately.

Autometer coolant temp sensor installed

A new 1W7Z-6C315-AB (Motorcraft part# DY-922) crankshaft position sensor will not be installed at this time as it is very easy to damage it on the A/C compressor during installation of the engine

Ground strap attached to rear of LH cylinder head. Stud torqued to 89 in. lbs.

 

[US-1]

Some things just don't need a torque wrench.

 

[tmcolegr]

This engine is equipped with a Meziere electric H2O pump w/5.5" (V10) diameter idler to improve belt wrap on my 2.75" Saleen S/C pulley. Unfortunately this is not the latest generation water pump offered by Meziere that has double bearings for S/C'd applications.

Rather than struggle with installing the water pump, install it prior to installing the harmonic balancer. This makes accessing the bottom bolt much easier. Also recommend lubricating the o-ring with coolant - not petroleum products as some products can make this o-ring swell. Lastly a modified 6mm ball end hex wrench makes this job very easy.

Bolts are torqued to 18 ft. lbs.

 

[tmcolegr]

Balancing will be accomplished by using a 918039 ATI Super Damper - std. diameter. I have already measured the crankshaft snout diameter and the ID of the balancer hub and confirmed the proper press fit. Balancer will be retained by an ARP bolt w/OEM washer.

Edit - Be sure to read post#294!!