A/C on A/F jumps around?

[mustangflanagan]

Any ideas why

 

[BruceH]

Any ideas why

Is it the first time the a/c has been on since the loading of a tune or having the battery disconnected?

There are separate tables for idle with the ac on. This includes driving idle. If your tuner didn't adjust them for your combo or if your ecu hasn't had enough time to learn them since the last kam reset then it will take a little while for the tune to adjust.

Edit: The idle tables are not just for idle speed. They also control the amount of air needed during idle and driving idle.

 

[mustangflanagan]

Interesting yea its the first time since getting it tuned months ago. But i dont have alot of faith in him cold starts and normal drive suck after the mods i put on.wot is fine though.

 

[BruceH]

Interesting yea its the first time since getting it tuned months ago. But i dont have alot of faith in him cold starts and normal drive suck after the mods i put on.wot is fine though.

I think sct purposely made the cold motor tables screwed up to separate the tooners from the tuners. Driveability is something that takes a little time and knowledge to get right imo. A value file tuner will just plug in the sct values and adjust the maf xfer for wot. A good tuner will adjust all the tables that need it so you have a driveable car that starts and runs when it's cold.

Try lito for a good tune. He's a vendor on the forum and one of the best tuners out there imo. Don't be afraid of a remote tune via data logging.

 

[mustangflanagan]

I am still trying to get over the fact i only picked up 42Rwhp from 4 more pounds if boost FRPP INTAKEMANIFOLD and kooks headers also went from 39ld inj to 60's

 

[mustangflanagan]

I think sct purposely made the cold motor tables screwed up to separate the tooners from the tuners. Driveability is something that takes a little time and knowledge to get right imo. A value file tuner will just plug in the sct values and adjust the maf xfer for wot. A good tuner will adjust all the tables that need it so you have a driveable car that starts and runs when it's cold.

Try lito for a good tune. He's a vendor on the forum and one of the best tuners out there imo. Don't be afraid of a remote tune via data logging.

Would love to just not familiar with how to do it.

 

[BruceH]

Would love to just not familiar with how to do it.

It's pretty easy. You download livelink from sct onto a laptop. Your tuner will give you a configuration file that will log the information he needs. You start with a tune he gives you and log it then send the log to him. He looks at the info and adjusts the tune. After doing this a few times the tune will be done.

IMO it's better than a non loaded dyno because the data is from your car under real street conditions and loads.

Did your tuner ever log anything during your tune? Or did he just do a pull, adjust for a/f, pull again, repeat?

 

[mustangflanagan]

Idk but i know he didnt take long a in started tuning around 9 and done by lunch

 

[retfr8flyr]

There is one of your problems. The only way you can fine tune cold start problems is by making a change in the tune and then seeing what it does when it's cold. This usually takes a while, to get it correct, on an FI engine. Once the cold start is correct then it needs to be driven to check the drive ability, usually while data logging at the same time. That's why most tuners don't get it correct, they wont take the time to do it right.


Earl

 

[mustangflanagan]

Unlesd the car warms up fully its runs like shit as in hits a dead spot and will not rpm or pick up speed

 

[mustangflanagan]

Hell if i dont let car warm up fully it eventually kocks a slow o2 sensor code aslo

 

[BruceH]

Hell if i dont let car warm up fully it eventually kocks a slow o2 sensor code aslo

Long tubes?

 

[mustangflanagan]

Yup kooks

 

[BruceH]

Yup kooks

Easily fixed in the tune. Not by changing the warm up time and burning up the o2 sensor either. I have macs which are the same length as kooks and don't get the code. I did at first until it was accounted for in the tune.

Seriously, get yourself a good tune. Having a car that doesn't drive right will make you not like the car after awhile. Having a car that drives fairly close to stock is a world of difference.

 

[retfr8flyr]

+1 If you son't have anyone local that you trust for a dyno tune the go remote. Get with lito, or Mike Rousch with MAP, also a vendor here. http://www.s197forum.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=117 Is doing remote tuning now and he is one of the best tuners on the east coast. I would trust him to tune anything.


Earl

 

[mustangflanagan]

Evolution is right across the street from where i go. Only prob they came off like assholes when i was checking one of their cars at the track to ask a question

 

[retfr8flyr]

Then go remote. Remote tuning is just as good and sometimes better then a dyno. You are making data logs on how the car is reacting on the road, not on a simulation, which is what a dyno really is.


Earl

 

[FIVE-OH]

+1 If you son't have anyone local that you trust for a dyno tune the go remote. Get with lito, or Mike Rousch with MAP, also a vendor here. http://www.s197forum.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=117 Is doing remote tuning now and he is one of the best tuners on the east coast. I would trust him to tune anything.


Earl

Another happy Mike Rousch (MAP) customer here.

 

[FIVE-OH]

Then go remote. Remote tuning is just as good and sometimes better then a dyno. You are making data logs on how the car is reacting on the road, not on a simulation, which is what a dyno really is.


Earl

Agreed, I think I got a better tune via data logs while driving around then I would have sitting on a dyno.

 

[mustangflanagan]

Who in the nj area is a good tuner