A look at BMR's current S197 Tubular A-Arm Offering

[BMR Tech]

My Steeda rear control arms are noisy as hell. I've had them out and regreased once already but after a few months or a good rainfall they get loud again.
-This is why we put grease fittings on our parts. This is also why I recommend the Amsoil.

I still have yet to find the Amsoil product Kelly recommended.
-That's weird, I have posted links to it almost everytime I recommend it. I will do it again:
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...-and-equipment-grease-nlgi-2/?code=GPTR2CR-EA

Again, does BMR need so much maintenance? I'm seriously contemplating going BMR if it's maintenance-free.
-No, our components are not maintenance free. That said, I probably have 20,000 customers, or so, that do not "maintain" the parts....they just put them on, and use them; without touching them. Again, we have grease fittings for ease of maintenance.

Kelly, are you out there?
Yuppers!

 

[Benjamin T]

That's weird, I have posted links to it almost everytime I recommend it. I will do it again:[/B][/COLOR]
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...-and-equipment-grease-nlgi-2/?code=GPTR2CR-EA

Trying to buy locally. Because I am from Canada, everything just gets stupid expensive when I have to ship across the border...

Yuppers!

Can your front adjustable a-arms, in conjunction with adjustable upper mounts, be used to increase track width in the front suspension?

 

[BMR Tech]

Yes.

 

[Benjamin T]

what is the range of adjustment? and what upper mounts would you recommend?

 

[Sky Render]

This stuff also works pretty good on my BMR bushings, and it can be found just about anywhere:

http://www.greengrease.net/

 

[BMR Tech]

My favorite mounts up top are the Vorshlag pieces.

I have customers running the MM pieces, Steeda, J&M, and others....with success as well. I really don't have a firm opinion on these, except that I like the Vorshlag pieces a lot. I set a car up with those, and I was thoroughly impressed.

As for the range of adjustment, this will vary based on the geometry of the front suspension. I would say you would atleast be able to get a solid .500" on each side, of increased width, assuming your A-Arms are close to parallel.

I also recommend sticking to the OEM height ball joint, if you are looking for maximized track width adjustment. The tall ball joints will actually reduce the track width slightly. The taller ball joints will move the wheels in closer to the centerline of the vehicle.

 

[Benjamin T]

This stuff also works pretty good on my BMR bushings, and it can be found just about anywhere:

http://www.greengrease.net/

i found this at the local napa. thanks!

 

[Benjamin T]

My favorite mounts up top are the Vorshlag pieces.

I have customers running the MM pieces, Steeda, J&M, and others....with success as well. I really don't have a firm opinion on these, except that I like the Vorshlag pieces a lot. I set a car up with those, and I was thoroughly impressed.

As for the range of adjustment, this will vary based on the geometry of the front suspension. I would say you would atleast be able to get a solid .500" on each side, of increased width, assuming your A-Arms are close to parallel.

I also recommend sticking to the OEM height ball joint, if you are looking for maximized track width adjustment. The tall ball joints will actually reduce the track width slightly. The taller ball joints will move the wheels in closer to the centerline of the vehicle.

thank you kelly. i had no idea that the height of the ball joint would affect everything. i was only focused on the roll center needing to come back up.

are these the vorshlag CC plates you are referring to?

http://forums.themustangsource.com/f813/vorshlag-cc-plates-installed-today-508874/

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_179&products_id=274

so just to summarize again for your opinion... do you think the combination of these parts will help me compensate for my tweaked driver side strut tower?

 

[crownaviation]

I just installed my BMR a-arms on my BMR K. Very happy. Not a whole lot lighter but if anything I am stoked as now I can remove/install my motor with headers on without scratching the shit out of them on the old a-arm bushing mounts (rear). Just wrapped them too so that would have sucked to have to install them with the motor in first. The header locks are a bastard to work with unless on engine stand

Big win in my eyes...