All Sorts of Questions...

[LAK3RS]

Sooo I'm addicted to racing and only been to the track once. I'm gonna go along with getting a TC, DS, Tires, and either finishing up the suspension or exhaust. Don't know which though. I'm either gonna go with CHE Suspension or ARH Headers/X-Pipe. Here's what I'm looking at...

- CHE Anti Squat Brackets
- CHE UCA Mount * Not Sure I need it*
- CHE Panhard Bar Poly/Poly
- CHE Panhard Brace
- CHE DS Safety Loop
- LPW Girdle Differential Cover

Am I missing something I need? Is there anything I have listed thats not necessary? I already have LCA's and Adj. UCA as well. What exactly will the axle brace do to help me? If I have to resort to getting some BMR parts, I will if needed. I'm really shooting to lower my 60' times really bad and get all my power to the ground that I have right now.

 

[Larry_H]

IMHO, you are starting at exactly the right place....build from the bottom up....do what you need to do to build a strong adjustable suspension so that you can get whatever amount of power you have to the ground...

The axle brace will keep your axle tubes from bending...no that you have to worry about that at your current power level, but it is a good mod for the future and if you put in on now, you can tune it in now, rather than fighting that problem when you have more power.

I beleive that when you are getting all the power you currently have to the ground and as a result, a good strong launch....you will either need to find a coupe roof that you can bolt on or a roll bar...the TC and D/R's will definitely put you in "rule breaker" territory....

 

[06GT_Vert]

The axle brace will not work on the Vert. It wont work becousee of the sub frame conectors verts have..

 

[cekim]

The axle brace will not work on the Vert. It wont work becousee of the sub frame conectors verts have..

No choice then - have to go with the 9" huh?

 

[Hawgman]

You don't need the torque limiters with an automatic either.

If you are looking to buy within the next month Dyno Joe is running a special on CHE parts. He has it posted in his vendor forum. You will need to change your thread view to posts from the last month to get it to show up. The special runs until the first of June if I remember correctly.



Even if you aren't intending on doing the upgrades within the next month be sure to check with our supporting vendors before purchasing somewhere else.

 

[06TorchVertGT]

The axle brace will not work on the Vert. It wont work becousee of the sub frame conectors verts have..

Shawn beat me to it!

 

[LAK3RS]

I already called up Joe earlier about different things. I'll be calling him up again tomorrow as well. Been on the phone all afternoon getting quotes on different parts and stuff, but I ALWAYS go through the vendors first. Especially since I'm going with CHE I'll be talking with Joe. I also am in need of a 3200 Stall PI Converter, so I'ma look around for that and see what kind of pricing I can find. Then of course Spyder is the man for the driveshaft.

Hawg, I didn't talk to Wade today, But I spoke with Scott for the first time on the phone getting some more info on the TC. Hopefully he'll get bacl on the forums and check his PM's.

One more thing, how do I get my smilies to work?

 

[LAK3RS]

Are there any personal recommendations for the suspension? I found out that the axle brace won't work with the vert and the torque limiters are a waste of time as stated above. So now I'm looking at Panhard bar, panhard brace, anti squats, uca mount, girdle, and ds loop. Anything else? What about Sway bars, would they help any?

 

[don_w]

I also am in need of a 3200 Stall PI Converter, so I'ma look around for that and see what kind of pricing I can find.

Let me know what you find out!

One more thing, how do I get my smilies to work?

Go into User CP, and click on Edit Options. Scroll to the bottom, and select the "WYSIWYG" interface.

 

[LAK3RS]

Let me know what you find out!




Go into User CP, and click on Edit Options. Scroll to the bottom, and select the "WYSIWYG" interface.

Thank you sir. I'll let ya know on the converter.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Are there any personal recommendations for the suspension? I found out that the axle brace won't work with the vert and the torque limiters are a waste of time as stated above. So now I'm looking at Panhard bar, panhard brace, anti squats, uca mount, girdle, and ds loop. Anything else? What about Sway bars, would they help any?

For a drag-race suspension, you may want to investigate the BMR extreme rear swaybar, and possibly a front swaybar delete. It will negatively affect your handling, but it's the hot ticket for straight-line work.

Also, you may want to think about adjustable dampers (Strange, Tokico, etc.) that would allow you to really dial in the suspension.

 

[LAK3RS]

For a drag-race suspension, you may want to investigate the BMR extreme rear swaybar, and possibly a front swaybar delete. It will negatively affect your handling, but it's the hot ticket for straight-line work.

Also, you may want to think about adjustable dampers (Strange, Tokico, etc.) that would allow you to really dial in the suspension.

It's gotta be a full "Street/Strip" set up man. I gotta keep the handling nice and smooth. I've been thinking about shocks/struts, but if I do that I'm going to want to do springs as well. Then with springs I'ma worry about tires rubbing possibly....

 

[06TorchVertGT]

Are there any personal recommendations for the suspension? I found out that the axle brace won't work with the vert and the torque limiters are a waste of time as stated above. So now I'm looking at Panhard bar, panhard brace, anti squats, uca mount, girdle, and ds loop. Anything else? What about Sway bars, would they help any?

You don't need the UCA mount if you already have the adjustable UCA - the stock mount is fine. Personally, I would do the following:
1. DS safety loop - won't make you go faster or handle better - but if you're going to race you really should have it to keep the flimsy stock DS from tearing up the car when it breaks.
2. LPW rear diff cover. Won't affect handling but is about the best thing you can do to support the factory rear diff. Plus it looks cool!
3. Tokico D-specs or another adjustable shock system. More expensive than #1 or 2 above - but will make a big difference in handling on the street over the factory struts & shocks. They can actually make you faster at the strip too. They can be adjusted to allow the front end of the car to come up & the rear to squat thus giving you better weight transfer at launch. I was skeptical whether they were worth the cost until I installed them myself - they are the bomb on the street and strip.

 

[LAK3RS]

You don't need the UCA mount if you already have the adjustable UCA - the stock mount is fine. Personally, I would do the following:
1. DS safety loop - won't make you go faster or handle better - but if you're going to race you really should have it to keep the flimsy stock DS from tearing up the car when it breaks.
2. LPW rear diff cover. Won't affect handling but is about the best thing you can do to support the factory rear diff. Plus it looks cool!
3. Tokico D-specs or another adjustable shock system. More expensive than #1 or 2 above - but will make a big difference in handling on the street over the factory struts & shocks. They can actually make you faster at the strip too. They can be adjusted to allow the front end of the car to come up & the rear to squat thus giving you better weight transfer at launch. I was skeptical whether they were worth the cost until I installed them myself - they are the bomb on the street and strip.

You hit it perfect bro!!

CHE's UCA mount isn't out yet, at least the price is not up on their site yet. I'm still skeptical about the stock mounts, but depending on what kind of deal I can get It and all the CHE products, it will remain a "possible" item, not a necessity.

LPW is already on the list as well. I was gonna do the CHE axle brace until I found out it doesn't work with verts.

Tokico's are really starting to grow on me. I hear from everyone that they are great. The thing is, I'm not sure if I'd go with Tokico, Billstein, Strange, or QA1. Tokico's more in likely though, got to find some pricing on them.

If I get shocks/struts I'm going to want to get some springs, preferably Steeda Ultralite's. I just don't think the springs will work with the tires I'm wanting though....

 

[06TorchVertGT]

Tokico's more in likely though, got to find some pricing on them.

Check with Joe on pricing for the Tokicos. I bought mine through him.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Tokico's more in likely though, got to find some pricing on them.

I got mine from PMP as part of a complete package, so I don't know the line-item price, but PMP has really treated me well, so I would definately give them a call or PM.

If I get shocks/struts I'm going to want to get some springs, preferably Steeda Ultralite's. I just don't think the springs will work with the tires I'm wanting though....

To really do things right, no matter what, you should keep the tires inside the wheelwells. You can change rims (different offset), narrow the axle housing, etc., right down to completely tubbing out the rear, but tires poking out past the fender just don't look good.

Also, springs will make a HUGE difference in the handling characteristics of the car, both straight-line, and twisty-turney. If the shocks are the brains of the suspension, then the springs are the heart... (paraphrased from the Tokico manual) Worst case, you can get custom-wound springs to do whatever it is you need them to. Variable rate springs are way cool, allowing for a relatively soft suspension for the first "X" portion of travel, and then rapidly stiffening up for the remainder of the travel.

The Tokico adjustables are killer for dual-purpose cars, since you can dial them in to your taste for the street, and then at the track go full soft up front, and medium-firm in the rear, with the right-rear being a hair firmer to help control body torque on launch. When you're done, just spin the adjusters back to your nice, comfortable ride for the drive home...

 

[LAK3RS]

Real Quick....

Should I do 255/45/17's or 255/50/17's up front with my 295/45/17's out back for the road...

 

[don_w]

A 255/45-17 is 26", and a 255/50-17 is 27". I run a 255/50-17 because I think 26" would be too short for the front.

 

[LAK3RS]

I ment to say 295/45/18 DD Bullitts out back, would it still be the same?

 

[LAK3RS]

I ment to say 295/45/18 DD Bullitts out back, would it still be the same for up front, should I go with the 255/50/17/s up front....