Another how much horse power I could expect?

[Jeffs FRC]

Lmao! Sounds like your the one whos about to get some1 in trouble. Your telling this kids his fuel jet is going to make up for the extra fuel. It has to travel over a foot and you expect it to evenly dispurse into each cylinder?? So what your telling him is he can throw all the HP he wants at his car as long as He has a fuel jet spraying fuel. Your gonna be well into the 400s for HP. Don't risk it over some $100 injectors. You can take advise from anyone you like but I'll be the one laughing when your next thread is a "Blew my motor, what happened)

Hey guy, have you ever run a wet kit? Doesn't sound like you know WTF your talking about!

A wet kit does exactly what you think it doesn't...ADDS EXTRA FUEL THROUGH THE FUEL SOLENOID.

 

[Germeezy3]

Bingo, and a dry kit with injectors has been argued to be the better choice. But you certainly don't need injectors with a wet kit , especially not with the built in controller with all of the safety switches. Your trans is going to fail soon after you spray the car ....LOL. And usually a 125 shot will give you close to or around 125 rwhp plus or minus 10 or 15 hp.

Invest in a Nano kit at some point asap, you will soon get tired of constantly watching bottle pressure and not being able to get anywhere near as much nitrous out of the bottle as you put in without the bottle pressure dropping.

 

[waldogt07]

Ok....Now the question is do I need bigger injectors or not??? I don't want to blow my motor with the nitrous by all means...I already have the 20 Amp BAP and if I need some new injectors then I will get those as well....There is a few that say yes and some that say no so now I am confused with who knows what.....So I pretty much know that I will be in the 420-450 range rwhp and will gain a 175+ rwtq...is this correct?? And yes when I get it dyno tuned I will post the dyno graph to show the final outcome but first things first I got to make sure I have everything I need in order to make everything safe to run the nitrous

 

[waldogt07]

Bingo, and a dry kit with injectors has been argued to be the better choice. But you certainly don't need injectors with a wet kit , especially not with the built in controller with all of the safety switches. Your trans is going to fail soon after you spray the car ....LOL. And usually a 125 shot will give you close to or around 125 rwhp plus or minus 10 or 15 hp.

Invest in a Nano kit at some point asap, you will soon get tired of constantly watching bottle pressure and not being able to get anywhere near as much nitrous out of the bottle as you put in without the bottle pressure dropping.

When you say that it is gonna fail soon after I spray...Do you mean if I spray a lot or what??.....I don't take my car to the drag strip at all...I have had it there once and it was bone stock then......I will only be spraying if I have too and that is if I have to when I have some punk kid trying to race me on the street and/or if I am racing a supercharged car....So really it won't be getting sprayed much at all......Hell I only drive the car 4 days out of the month and that is only on Saturday's to car shows and if it is not raining or something

 

[Germeezy3]

Ok....Now the question is do I need bigger injectors or not??? I don't want to blow my motor with the nitrous by all means...I already have the 20 Amp BAP and if I need some new injectors then I will get those as well....There is a few that say yes and some that say no so now I am confused with who knows what.....So I pretty much know that I will be in the 420-450 range rwhp and will gain a 175+ rwtq...is this correct?? And yes when I get it dyno tuned I will post the dyno graph to show the final outcome but first things first I got to make sure I have everything I need in order to make everything safe to run the nitrous

If your fear is blowing your engine, than I say don't spray at all or drop the shot down to a 75 or 100 shot. And the added torque from nitrous is going to make your transmission fail prematurely how long it takes no one knows. Make absolute sure your window switch does not allow you to spray through the shifts.

 

[Jeffs FRC]

Ok....Now the question is do I need bigger injectors or not??? I don't want to blow my motor with the nitrous by all means...I already have the 20 Amp BAP and if I need some new injectors then I will get those as well....There is a few that say yes and some that say no so now I am confused with who knows what.....So I pretty much know that I will be in the 420-450 range rwhp and will gain a 175+ rwtq...is this correct?? And yes when I get it dyno tuned I will post the dyno graph to show the final outcome but first things first I got to make sure I have everything I need in order to make everything safe to run the nitrous

Let me say it again, you do not need injectors! The BAP *should* satisfy your fuel needs.

I see you saying you don't want to blow your motor, but you have to realize that with any power adder your taking a chance.

Please list the parts for your nitrous install.

 

[Germeezy3]

What nitrous controller are you using? What safety switches are you using? Window, WOT, Lean? Contact your nitrous company and ask them if you don't know what to think I would bet they are going to say that with a BAP and a wet system that you don't need more injector. You also need a colder plug than stock as well...something like the NGK TR6's.

 

[wazslow]

Lmao! Sounds like your the one whos about to get some1 in trouble. Your telling this kids his fuel jet is going to make up for the extra fuel. It has to travel over a foot and you expect it to evenly dispurse into each cylinder?? So what your telling him is he can throw all the HP he wants at his car as long as He has a fuel jet spraying fuel. Your gonna be well into the 400s for HP. Don't risk it over some $100 injectors. You can take advise from anyone you like but I'll be the one laughing when your next thread is a "Blew my motor, what happened)

I've forgotten more than you ever knew about cars. You DONT need injectors with a wet kit. They add NO more fuel when spraying. ALL fuel comes from the nozzle on a wet kit. Its a complete waste of money to put injectors on a wet kit. You don't have a clue what you are talking about. Don't give advice, if you don't know what you are doing!

Here is my last car...
Car made well over 1200rwhp on a mustang dyno. Went 8.80's on 93 octane. Look up wazslow, plenty of pics and video. Car was in several magazines(Muscle Mustang and Fast Fords, 5.0 Magazine, Fastest Street Car, Race Pages, Hot Rod... and on hot rod tv...


Here is the picture and caption from Muscle Mustang magazine on that very pass...

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/events/mmfp_0909_nitto_tire_nmra_atco_raceway/photo_27.html

Here is a pic of the car 200 or so foot down the track when the boost controller starts bringing in the booost...

Here is a pic of the motor.

8.17 pass on 19 lbs of boost with a hurt turbo on the top end.

http://www.streetfire.net/video/1-bad-street-turbo-stang_681843.htm

Smoking 325 50 15 drag radials like nothing for an 1/8 mile...

http://www.streetfire.net/video/850-turbo-mustang-drag-radial-burnout-on-the-stre_135933.htm


I work on this twin fogger nitrous 66 Nova almost every weekend in the summer. But Im sure you and your 11 second car know better than I do.

http://www.dragzine.com/features/car-features/marc-shankweiler-and-his-true-street-66-nova-ii/

 

[Jeffs FRC]

You also need a colder plug than stock as well...something like the NGK TR6's.

I bet most here have never heard of a TR6. Silly LSx fanboy!

 

[Germeezy3]

EPIC PWNG! All these non nitrous running nitrous experts ...LOL....

Way to

The definition of a wet nitrous kit is one that adds fuel with the nitrous, versus a dry kit which just adds nitrous. Its not exactly rocket science! And unless you run a direct port system the nitrous and / or fuel is never going to be exactly distributed to the cylinders.

 

[Germeezy3]

I bet most here have never heard of a TR6. Silly LSx fanboy!

LMAO, I should go hide now....lol....

 

[Jeffs FRC]

LMAO, I should go hide now....lol....

Back to your LS hole now! lol

BTW, do you have an S197 yet?

 

[07stangcs]

Hey guy, have you ever run a wet kit? Doesn't sound like you know WTF your talking about!

A wet kit does exactly what you think it doesn't...ADDS EXTRA FUEL THROUGH THE FUEL SOLENOID.

Why actually yes I have, for over a year. I'm just telling you from my experience with my stock injectors. I've sprayed a 150 shot through a HSW plate with plenty of people to back my troubles up. We tried to up the fuel by upping the fuel jet but the car ran worst. Went to 60# injectors and used the recomended fuel jet and it ran great. Was never really sure why but I was told that are stock manifold isn't the best for a nozzle app.

 

[Germeezy3]

Why actually yes I have, for over a year. I'm just telling you from my experience with my stock injectors. I've sprayed a 150 shot through a HSW plate with plenty of people to back my troubles up. We tried to up the fuel by upping the fuel jet but the car ran worst. Went to 60# injectors and used the recomended fuel jet and it ran great. Was never really sure why but I was told that are stock manifold isn't the best for a nozzle app.

You have a heads/ cam / stroker shortblock.....his car is a bit different.

 

[Germeezy3]

Back to your LS hole now! lol

BTW, do you have an S197 yet?

Technically I already have one, my company has a project S197.

 

[07stangcs]

You have a heads/ cam / stroker shortblock.....his car is a bit different.

I dynoed about 70+ rwhp over him na. He's "starting" at a 125 shot and upping from there. I just thought it would be in his best interest to get some 39s to be safe. Personally I don't think anyone should spray over a 125 shot on a single nozzle setup with these motors. Even tho a plate design is still considered a single nozzle, I just feel the atomization between nitrous and fuel is much better than any single nozzle could produce.

 

[Germeezy3]

I dynoed about 70+ rwhp over him na. He's "starting" at a 125 shot and upping from there. I just thought it would be in his best interest to get some 39s to be safe. Personally I don't think anyone should spray over a 125 shot on a single nozzle setup with these motors. Even tho a plate design is still considered a single nozzle, I just feel the atomization between nitrous and fuel is much better than any single nozzle could produce.

I agree, personally on a stock 5R55S trans I think anything over a 75 shot is asking for trouble. I also agree that a nozzle depending on the intake design is not the optimal design.....but the question was does he " NEED " injectors and the answer is no.....not on a wet kit. Ideally a direct port dry kit, with a real fuel system and more injector would be the best setup and also to add a Nano system.

 

[waldogt07]

Ok...I see that you guys have been busy since I was gone....But to answer your question about what all I am installing: It is the Wet NX Nitrous Plate Kit, Autolite HTO colder plugs, KB 20 Amp BAP, NJO Nitrous Controller( Which I am planning to set it to only spray on 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears...Having the nitrous activate only through like 3500rpms up to like 6000rpms....and have it start out shooting 75 and then go up to a 125 shot in each gear), plus all the other goodies like the electric bottle opener, purge, all the gauges( N20, fuel, and wideband with controller), cup holder switch plate.....I may be forgetting something but you get the idea of where I am coming from.....(This is the kit that xtremegt07 was selling..I bought the whole kit from him)

 

[KungFuHamster]

your car will probably run like shit with 39s with the power youre making at the tire when youre not squeezing it.

keep your stock injectors.

 

[Germeezy3]

The nitrous controllers usually have a Window, WOT, and lean safety switch built into them so you will be fine. Just so you know when set to activate progressively it will eat up the solenoids faster than if it just activates at a certain shot instead of ramping up to it. You can set it as low as 3000 rpm if you want to but again DO NOT SPRAY THRU SHIFTS! Make sure your window switch is set at least 200 or 300 rpm before your car shifts.