Anyone running the Power by the hour 3v Coyote harness?

OvalSports

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Stopped by PBH yesterday, and was happy I did. Christian at PBH provide some great technical support. He runs the harnesses along the right side body harness in the fender through the firewall. The PBH fuse housing assembly is mounted in the passenger kick panel area, but wiring for the fan control needs to be run right back out and along the body harness again. The open wires (key switch power, gas pedal, etc.) run through this same passenger side firewall opening and run inside the car over to the steering column area.
I’ll post picks whenever we are finished.

He also sold me a complete fuel return kit (hoses, fittings, regulated, gauge) at what seems to be a decent price. This was very similar to what I had ran with my 331 Fox body.
 

mattjames

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Stopped by PBH yesterday, and was happy I did. Christian at PBH provide some great technical support. He runs the harnesses along the right side body harness in the fender through the firewall. The PBH fuse housing assembly is mounted in the passenger kick panel area, but wiring for the fan control needs to be run right back out and along the body harness again. The open wires (key switch power, gas pedal, etc.) run through this same passenger side firewall opening and run inside the car over to the steering column area.
I’ll post picks whenever we are finished.

He also sold me a complete fuel return kit (hoses, fittings, regulated, gauge) at what seems to be a decent price. This was very similar to what I had ran with my 331 Fox body.
Did he mention any release dates or any other insight. I know he told me almost a year ago that I could call him and they could make me a harness if I absolutely needed one.
 

OvalSports

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I just bought a harness a few months ago from them. They are in the shop working, so I’m not sure why they would be able to supply.
 

amac20

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Purchased a PBH harness for a 2006 V6 Coyote swap.
Does anyone have photos and tips on how to route the harness, particularly through the firewall? Also where specifically to splice all the non-connector open wires?
We’re you able to get your TCS, AC, and ABS working with the PBH harness? I’m also having trouble finding support for it as PBH is really no help. Thanks!
 

OvalSports

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Still not done with it, We had some hiccups with exhaust, fuel, etc.
The PBH fuse panel is mounted near the battery and the harnesses are ran through the firewall.
Our car is actually a V6 auto conversion to coyote manual, but we are using the same PBH harness.
We are changing the gas pedal to a 2014 style which directly connects to the PBH harness and are now fumbling through the new brake/clutch pedal assembly connections.

I can’t even seem to get power in this vehicle yet.

Call PBH, and ask for Christian. He seems to help when you can catch him.
 

mattjames

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Still not done with it, We had some hiccups with exhaust, fuel, etc.
The PBH fuse panel is mounted near the battery and the harnesses are ran through the firewall.
Our car is actually a V6 auto conversion to coyote manual, but we are using the same PBH harness.
We are changing the gas pedal to a 2014 style which directly connects to the PBH harness and are now fumbling through the new brake/clutch pedal assembly connections.

I can’t even seem to get power in this vehicle yet.

Call PBH, and ask for Christian. He seems to help when you can catch him.

Christian is the guy!

Also, would you mind expanding on the issues you stated you're having?
 

OvalSports

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Primarily time to focus on the project, but regarding the brake/clutch pedal assembly they changed in either 2010 or 2011.

The early model S197 had two 2 pin separate switches, and the late model has one 4-pin switch. Unfortunately the 4 pin is not wired the same, so we are trying to understand how to splice in the PBH harness.
 

mattjames

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Primarily time to focus on the project, but regarding the brake/clutch pedal assembly they changed in either 2010 or 2011.

The early model S197 had two 2 pin separate switches, and the late model has one 4-pin switch. Unfortunately the 4 pin is not wired the same, so we are trying to understand how to splice in the PBH harness.

I noticed that difference in the wiring diagrams. Essentially the Coyote brake pedal switch gives 12v and disconnects the ground input to the PCM(much like the clutch pedal does). I plan on hooking up the BOO (pin 13) as you should from the 3V side[should be in the C175B connector, LB-RD, pin 9], And splicing the clutch switch input to the BPS pin 46 on the 5.0 C175B. This is how some seemed to have gotten the cruise control to work and disengage with the clutch pedal as well.
 

Midlife Crises

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The early model S197 had two 2 pin separate switches, and the late model has one 4-pin switch. Unfortunately the 4 pin is not wired the same, so we are trying to understand how to splice in the PBH harness.
The wire colors are different but the circuits are similar. With two separate 2 pin switches, one is normally open and the other is normally closed. The 4 pin switch is simply two switches in the same housing. One side is normally open and the other is normally closed.
 

race4food

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Oval sports are you up and running? I got mine wired out and running like a champ. It was actually quite a bit easier than I made it out to be. I had the ignition/ power wire to the wrong pin out and a reversed OBD2 connector wire. Also thought I had a bad EEC because of no communication.
After that It just started. I also just had PATS deleted by power by the hour. She just Dynoed 506 to the wheels. Not as much as expected but its a start.
 

race4food

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For the brake and the clutch you really just need to connect the PBH harness positive wires in place of the factory harness positive wire on the brake and clutch switches.

I refuse to cut any chassis wires so I got a pair of brake pigtails and clutch connectors from a junkyard, then de pinned and pinned them into the harness.

I pulled the negative out of the stock connectors and moved it to the junkyard connector then soldered and spliced the PBH positive into the junkyard one.

The fuel pump I ran the big purple wire through the passenger side rubber seal along the door sill, under the back seat and direct to the positive on the fuel pump.

Simplifies things and gives a big solid voltage boost to the fuel pump.
For the Fan I got a junkyard connector and ran the PBH to the positive and then grounded the negative.

For the ComBUS - and + I pulled the pink and green from the original c137b connector that was hanging and that is where I connected in.

I run the electric steering rack so I did not splice in there as PBH suggested.

Biggest issue was the Key on power I simply connected to the wrong pin in the Steering Wheel Colom.
Apparently the 05-06 is significantly different than the 07+ and Ford decided to change 3 wires in both color and location in the connector.
 

Juice

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Oval sports are you up and running? I got mine wired out and running like a champ. It was actually quite a bit easier than I made it out to be. I had the ignition/ power wire to the wrong pin out and a reversed OBD2 connector wire. Also thought I had a bad EEC because of no communication.
After that It just started. I also just had PATS deleted by power by the hour. She just Dynoed 506 to the wheels. Not as much as expected but its a start.
So what was the rattling noise? And how much did the 500 wheel hp cost? You dropped off the face of the planet after you blew it up the first time.
 

race4food

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Engine did not blow up, just a fuel line that refused to stay in place. I got absolutely disgusted chasing BS ghost codes in the EEC all to be a bad line in the pickup, so I put a cover over her and just left it.
 

OvalSports

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Guys,
Thanks for the help. I’m currently traveling with work, but I will be home and back on the project next week.

It looks like race4food has cleared up most of it, but I’m still not certain on the brake switches. Are we saying that there are one + and one - on each of the two old style brake switch connectors and that the newer one 4 pin connector has two + and two - wires?
I did get your PM and will connect next week.
 

mattjames

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Guys,
Thanks for the help. I’m currently traveling with work, but I will be home and back on the project next week.

It looks like race4food has cleared up most of it, but I’m still not certain on the brake switches. Are we saying that there are one + and one - on each of the two old style brake switch connectors and that the newer one 4 pin connector has two + and two - wires?
I did get your PM and will connect next week.

If you can look at the diagrams, and like I said, see what that pin expects to see for an input. It's either 12v or ground. Pretty sure they flipped the nomenclature as for as what BPS and BOO is between 07 and 2011-14 but one gets 12V when the brake is pushed and the other expects ground to be open when pushed.
 

OvalSports

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9 months later and we are back on the project.
Clutch was sorted, and we’ll follow the brake wiring advice.
Unfortunately now we have no power to anything - thinking it’s a corroded SJB, so we’re in search of a replacement.
So close we can taste the carbon monoxide.

Another item is A/C lines. We only have the coyote compressor, so we are sticking with it. Someone had posted using modified Freon lines, does anyone have that info?

Race4food, has is yours running? Any issues or new mods?
 

OvalSports

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Swap update:
The car, “Frankenstang”, is running, but it does have issues:
1. There seems to be a fuel power supply issue. We ran the PBH purple wire back to the fuel pump hat connector where we have a GT500 dual pump system installed. We were only seeing around 50psi with a major drop upon accelerator input, so we ran an additional power lead from the extra post on the PBH fuse block to the fuel hat connector. That second power wire brought the pressure up significantly amd seems to maintain pressure in the shop. It has been driving stable at most times, but there has been a couple occasions where all power just drops. Once we can get it to a dyno, we should have the needed troubleshooting feedback.
PBH advised that we should only use their “PCM” controlled purple fuel power post & that only one of the GT500 pumps was needed, but the car is simply starving for fuel using that post vs. the keyed positive post on their fuse block. We tried both fuel pumps on either fuse block post with the same results. It wants dual pumps and works better with constant pressure between anything “PCM regulated”. I simply don’t understand why PBH requires a return style system if they state that their fuel power supply is PCM regulated.

2. No gauges: we are tracing back for can bus leads, but I don’t remember seeing any in this PBH harness. We may have to jump to the 2013 gauge set.

3. No brake lights: we haven’t had much progress with diagrams due to it being a 2006 V6 auto car with a 2013 Coyote manual swap including a 2013 pedal set. There were simply too many wiring differences from Ford (auto vs. manual, v6 vs. v8, and 05-06 vs. 07-up body harness changes).
 

mattjames

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2. No gauges: we are tracing back for can bus leads, but I don’t remember seeing any in this PBH harness. We may have to jump to the 2013 gauge set.

you should be able to get the gages working with finding CAN bus wires
 

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