ASSIT needed 2011 gt 5.0 KB after install prob

[Fake_Snake]

I have a buddy who is having trouble after his install of his KB in his 5.0

1st) IDLEis fine, but HIs Rpms drop below 500 and will die when he goes to put it in gear and it will act normal.

2) DTC p0113 IAT circut high input and p0104 MAF sensor interment
the kit requires you cut into the stock maf harness two color wires so its that is cut and try for both...


we re did the lines and went from having nothing after second as making power to holy shit on the test drive as it wasnt stumbling any more when you mashed the gas.

but we get back shut down and the does come back.... but were stumped were to look next for it any help were to trouble shot next

 

[JimIII@JDM]

Sounds like the problem exists with the wiring he had to do for the MAF maybe the wires were crossed by mistake or the connections arent that good. All sings point there being the IAT is in the MAF and the other code is MAF related as well.

 

[Fake_Snake]

according to the instruction its reads two wires are taped off on the maf sensor and then two are spliced ( IAT)

we re did the spliced ones with a tunnel connectors as we dont have a soldering iron ( instruction read to solder)

Also its running rich as you can really smell it .. I forgot the plugs he said he went to that are suppose to be colder but per KB they said there not burning enough gas and he should switch back to stock with hes RUNNING 60 lb inj

Also JimIII DO you know of any Tuners around west TN, the tune he has is the one that KN sends to the people

 

[dmhines]

On my 2010 saleen install two wires were cut and then spliced to the iat sensor. No other wires on the MAF were touched. Sounds like he cut 4 wires.

 

[KJGT]

I assume they are eliminating the IAT from the MAF and hooking up a new one downstream.

If you are doing that you to SPLICE one wire from the new IAT sensor to the blue wire on the MAF connector. If you cut that blue wire you will lose the MAF signal.

The other wire from the new IAT sensor goes to the viloet/gray wire that has to be cut from the MAF sensor connector.

I guess thats what they are doing, it would be best to post up that part of the instructions to see. Something is definitely wrong if you are getting codes and its running badly.

 

[Fake_Snake]

Hrrm ill double check his install booklet to see if thats what he did....

 

[Fake_Snake]

ill give him a call later to see we were up past 2 am last

 

[Fake_Snake]

I assume they are eliminating the IAT from the MAF and hooking up a new one downstream.

thats what it looks like its at the back of the midplate area now where it mounts

If you are doing that you to SPLICE one wire from the new IAT sensor to the blue wire on the MAF connector. If you cut that blue wire you will lose the MAF signal.

i wanna say the blue wire was spliced

The other wire from the new IAT sensor goes to the viloet/gray wire that has to be cut from the MAF sensor connector.

if thats the case im thinking he cut a few extras wires as

I guess thats what they are doing, it would be best to post up that part of the instructions to see. Something is definitely wrong if you are getting codes and its running badly.

see bold for replies

 

[KJGT]

There are only 4 wires on the new MAFs, one +12V to power the MAF (forget the color), yellow (MAF signal to ECU), violet/gray (IAT signal to ECU) and blue (return for IAT and MAF signal).

Make sure and solder everything as stated as well, you dont want to lose the MAF or IAT signal at the wrong time.

 

[Fake_Snake]

i wanna say the purple is cut and then taped off on the maf sensor plug i shoulda took a pic for myself

 

[SlowA$$5.0]

If the instructions say to cut and splice that doesn't mean you disconnect the wire altogether, just means you cut it in half, splice the new IAT wire then solder the now 3 connections back together. However, I doubt it will ever idle correctly with 60# injectors.

 

[Twinscrewgt]

+ 1 on the 60s. Until a new fuel hat is released and we can run an external regulator, the fuel pressure is too high at idle for the 60s and 80s.

 

[kyoshosp2]

yes my tuner said that no tuner has 60s wkn in these cars unless it's on a return system.. they are working on a program for but not as of yet. he needs some 48-52# gt500 injectors

 

[Twinscrewgt]

Even the 52s suck. The only ones that are designed for the 55psi is the frpp 47s. Which have a completely different injector slope than the gt500 52s

 

[kyoshosp2]

mine idle like stock

 

[chuck@EvolutionPerformanc]

Our 72's idle like stock with proper tuning.

Also, there is a better way of doing the IAT where you dont have to cut up the factory harness at the MAF. On the GT500's there is an IAT both before (in the MAF(IAT1)) and after the supercharger (actually in the intake manifold after the intercooler(IAT2)). The 5.0 from the factory doesn't need this, as it isn't boosted, buuuuuuuut, it still has the pin for the IAT2 sensor at the ECU. What this means is that you can use the same type of setup for IAT that the GT500 uses.

 

[Fake_Snake]

If the instructions say to cut and splice that doesn't mean you disconnect the wire altogether, just means you cut it in half, splice the new IAT wire then solder the now 3 connections back together. However, I doubt it will ever idle correctly with 60# injectors.

talked to him and read off what posted here and he went back to look at it along with the instructions and this was the issue..

so problem fixed and he said everything is alright with it now.

it even fixed the "thing must be running rich" smell it was given off and the idle problem is no longer there

Thanks everyone