BBR Short Block

[ryanralston07]

Is there a hp gain though since it will be able to rotate faster with less weight, or is it just a weight reduction?

 

[EagleStroker]

It makes for a more rev happy engine because of the reduced weight, its more responsive, if you were looking for hp don't waste your time to be honest.

 

[ryanralston07]

Thanks man. Still can't justify the $800 extra for the new crank and then roughly $200 for a new flywheel.

 

[*JZ*]

We've had no issues getting that stock crank to rev. We ran a stock crank on the Non-Intercooled Vortech car we put together.

It's the highest horsepower 3V non-intercooled car.

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/global_item.php?gik=348&cat=4


That motor revved like a champ.

 

[ryanralston07]

John, did you get my pm?

 

[*JZ*]

John, did you get my pm?

checking

 

[ryanralston07]

Just being curious...what is the weight difference between the aluminum and cast iron? I've tried a search and can't find anything. No I am not looking at using an iron block...FRPP says the aluminum block with forged internals is 196# http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=10374

 

[Error404]

I could be wrong, but I believe I read that aluminum (stock block) is about 80 pounds? and an Iron block is somewhere around 160 or so? I believe that's what I read. According to that link, the aluminum block is 130 pounds

 

[ryanralston07]

Wow...that's quite a difference!

 

[Error404]

Wow...that's quite a difference!

assuming what I've read is correct, yea it is! Price difference is noticeable as well

 

[one eyed willy]

im using a stock crank on my new build,not planning on going above 600hp.

im not sure how much the stock block weighs,but with no crank i put it on my engine stand by myself with out straining, i dont think it was near 80# unless im just stronger than i thought,LOL.

my block is going out next week. im using a canton/MMR crank scraper(requires 2 oil pan gaskets). i still have to get a new rear seal and extra oil pan gasket to go with the crank scraper.im re-using my valve cover gaskets,manifold gaskets,oil pan gasket and timing chain gaskets.they are all made out of rubber and should be re-usable.

also bought the ARP main studs and 2v headstuds, for your info they are $150 cheaper than thee 3v head studs and still work just the same.

i got oem headgaskets from MMR for $140.

 

[one eyed willy]

Fel-Pro Rear Main Seal - $17.50

Fel-Pro Oil Pan Gasket - $31.50

anyone have the part numbers for these?

 

[ryanralston07]

im using a stock crank on my new build,not planning on going above 600hp.

im not sure how much the stock block weighs,but with no crank i put it on my engine stand by myself with out straining, i dont think it was near 80# unless im just stronger than i thought,LOL.

my block is going out next week. im using a canton/MMR crank scraper(requires 2 oil pan gaskets). i still have to get a new rear seal and extra oil pan gasket to go with the crank scraper.im re-using my valve cover gaskets,manifold gaskets,oil pan gasket and timing chain gaskets.they are all made out of rubber and should be re-usable.

also bought the ARP main studs and 2v headstuds, for your info they are $150 cheaper than thee 3v head studs and still work just the same.

i got oem headgaskets from MMR for $140.

How about a write up of the install?