Best handling springs

[Bad06stang]

I have had a few sets of springs on my car, FRPP Ks, Eibach sportlines, and now I am running H&R super sports. Long story short, my car performs like a pig. It does not hook worth a shit, and going around corners the ass skips and hops around alot. I am scared to even take off ramps to quick because the car is so unpredictable. Forget about trying to race, my bolt on car got pulled multiple times by a bone ass stock one and made me look like an idiot because I am currently unable to go WOT under 50 mph without making a smoke show. I have come to the conclusion that being lowered 2.4 inches looks killer but performs like a turd, I mean my car is less than an inch off the already shorter than stock eibach bumpstops. Only reason I changed from the K springs originally was because my 05-09 STR.T struts made WAY to much rake on my car. I want to keep the car lowered around 1.5 inches with not too much rake. So my plan is to buy another set of K springs along with a set of the new 11+ struts from Koni to correct my gripe with the rake I had before. BUT I have heard that there are springs that perform better than the Ks. I dont care about ride quality at all, I am looking for performance. Should I stick with the Ks or what do you guys recommend for the best performance spring with the same 1.5 drop as Ks? Might go ahead and get the yellows this time too.

 

[robz]

Baked Sea Bass With Black-Olive Sauce

4 cloves garlic minced
1 c pitted black olives chopped
1 ts crumbled dried oregano
1 ts crumbled dried basil
2 tb minced parsley
1 salt
1 freshly ground pepper
1/4 c olive oil
2 lb sea bass fillets (4 to 6 ea)
1/2 c vegetable stock or dry white wine

Combine garlic, olives, oregano, basil and parsley in small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 13x9-inch glass baking dish at 425 degrees 1 minute. Spread olive mixture evenly over bottom of baking dish. Arrange sea bass, skin side up, on top. Pour vegetable stock around fillets. Bake, basting occasionally with juices, 15 minutes or until done. To serve, arrange fillets and olive mixture on heated serving plates.
Makes 4 servings.
Top

 

[Bad06stang]

 

[sheizasosay]

We're talking about optimizing a car for daily driving right ?

 

[NDSP]

Your performance ( handling ) issues are definitely related to being on the bump stops all the time. I run K's with bilstiens and have my rear bump stops cut down by 2 levels. It rides stiff but well. Before I cut the rear stops down it was ill handling too. Before I put the bilstiens on and was only running the K springs with stock shocks and struts the car handled like shit. Really horrible. The Koni STR.Ts might not be up to the challange of dampening your current springs. Try Koni yellows or bilstiens, make sure the rear bump stops are cut down and try that. Koni aren't shorter than stock as far as I know. The bilstiens are.

 

[jayel579]

Oh boy another "best" thread, unleash the kraken!!

 

[Bad06stang]

I do believe its because the car is riding on the bumpstops and its requires more than just dampening to solve. I am already running the shorter eibach bumpstops and I can barley fit a finger between the bumpstop and the frame. I am pretty sure I am going to do H&R race springs with the 11+ specific koni yellows. I figure with my eibach sway bars, and J&M panhard I should have a pretty good performing car

 

[NDSP]

Yeah, my cut down bump stops are half that height

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

[sheizasosay]

An argument could be made to leave the stock stop in there. I mean seriously, you ARE going to be on the stops with those springs and the shorter you make it the quicker you will get rate. I think it sucks really. I just cut my stops earlier today. Took the nipple off and already I know I don't want a bump and in a turn. All for about .6" of gained travel.

Anybody know what would happen if you removed 90% of the rear bumpstops with a koni yellow?

 

[Whiskey11]

An argument could be made to leave the stock stop in there. I mean seriously, you ARE going to be on the stops with those springs and the shorter you make it the quicker you will get rate. I think it sucks really. I just cut my stops earlier today. Took the nipple off and already I know I don't want a bump and in a turn. All for about .6" of gained travel.

Anybody know what would happen if you removed 90% of the rear bumpstops with a koni yellow?

A few things:
H&R SS springs are going to suck on stock sized dampers... if you want that low, go with coilovers with appropriate rates to handle being that low. I stopped bottoming out on my car at those drops at 550/275 for spring rates... that's about twice the front spring rate of the SS and probably 50lbs/in heavier in the rear.

Next, that "rear hop" that makes you so nervous is a combination of bump stops, damping rates and lateral displacement of the rear axle. Fix the bump stops, fix the damping and fix the lateral displacement of the rear axle. If you want to get rid of 90% of that "hop" on mid corner bumps then get a watts link because that is about your only hope for getting rid of the majority of it.

Finally, Rob has it right.

 

[sheizasosay]

Wow...a knewcleuhr explosion....so don't trim 90% of the bumpstop is what you are saying? Check...

Whiskey you got a pic of the distance of your frame from your bumpstop?

 

[Whiskey11]

Wow...a knewcleuhr explosion....so don't trim 90% of the bumpstop is what you are saying? Check...

Whiskey you got a pic of the distance of your frame from your bumpstop?

I don't... mostly because my rear bump stops are actually on the shocks and not on the axle any more.

Really I don't know what will happen if you do trim them a lot aside from the opportunity to bottom out the shock and damage it.

 

[sheizasosay]

I guess what I need to do is go mark a reference point on the damper at ride height. Remove the bolt out of the lower rear shock and press it up to see how far it will go before the shock bottoms out and mark that. Do some simple math (subtraction) and see how much travel I got to work with to cut the stops. That a bass ackwards way of doing it?

 

[Sharad]

...

I see you're running 19" INVOs. What size are they?

Fwiw, I'm dropped on yellows and my 2011 handles pretty well, but it'll still hit the (already drastically cut down) bump stops on a rough surface.

 

[Whiskey11]

I see you're running 19" INVOs. What size are they?

Fwiw, I'm dropped on yellows and my 2011 handles pretty well, but it'll still hit the (already drastically cut down) bump stops on a rough surface.

Probably because the dampers (shocks/struts) aren't designed to prevent the suspension from doing anything except oscillate uncontrollably. If you want to stay off the bump stops, up the spring rate which is actually what controls how far the suspension moves.

 

[todcp]

Whiskey is right on the money.
I added Koni Yellow, Steeda Boss 302 springs (225F and 195R), Steeda HD mounts, FRRP bumpstops and a Fay2 watts link. I did not cut the FRRP bump stops. Car handles great. Wheel hop is completely gone (the wheel hop was crazy bad with my stock track pack car). The car just hooks up and rips straight down the road. No more diving on braking and no more ridiculous front end lift under hard acceleration. Note that I did not change the track pack LCA's nor the stock UCA. Did not change the anti roll bars yet.
My GT track pack is a vastly different and very competent car now. Very pleased. First track day is tomorrow at NHIS, a notorious poor road surface that should be a great final test of the Fays2.

 

[Rabee]

Whiskey is right on the money.
I added Koni Yellow, Steeda Boss 302 springs (225F and 195R), Steeda HD mounts, FRRP bumpstops and a Fay2 watts link. I did not cut the FRRP bump stops. Car handles great. Wheel hop is completely gone (the wheel hop was crazy bad with my stock track pack car). The car just hooks up and rips straight down the road. No more diving on braking and no more ridiculous front end lift under hard acceleration. Note that I did not change the track pack LCA's nor the stock UCA. Did not change the anti roll bars yet.
My GT track pack is a vastly different and very competent car now. Very pleased. First track day is tomorrow at NHIS, a notorious poor road surface that should be a great final test of the Fays2.

I can not wait for your track review!!

 

[todcp]

I can not wait for your track review!!

I will post up tomorrow night when I get home. Will try to get some pictures as well.
For this event I am running the stock Pirellis PZero summer as I want to get to know the car a bit more before I put the Nitto 275/40/18' on.

Running Carbotech XP24 front and XP10 rear. Car has JLT brake cooling kit and I removed the rear rotor covers. Unfortuntely I could not get the brake fluid changed in time for this event but the car only has 1100 miles on it and this track is not very demanding on the brakes.

 

[claudermilk]

I will post up tomorrow night when I get home. Will try to get some pictures as well.
For this event I am running the stock Pirellis PZero summer as I want to get to know the car a bit more before I put the Nitto 275/40/18' on.

Not a bad plan, though you've changed so much of the suspension already you may as well put the better tires on. If you haven't already, you will find those P-Zeroes SUUUUUCK.

 

[sheizasosay]

XP24's operating temp starts at 400 degrees. Ford brake fluid boils at 501. FYI