Best spark plug for stock GT 2006

06 T-RED S/C GT

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Thanks guys. At least I know now which plugs not to buy!

If you don't want to stick with OEM motorcraft? I would recommend going with either Accel or Brisk racing one piece spark plugs.

I have these in my car now. Granted I don't drive her much these days but they have been in for a little while with no issues. They are a 1-piece plug with a conventional electrode/strap design and these are 1 degree colder for FI or Nitrous applications. They are also only $100 which is a great price if you run Brisks. I have never looked to see if they have a normal temp range plug. Accel is a brand I have known and trusted for decades.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/accel-s...colder-16mm-set-3v-4-6l-2005-2008/p/SP8160C1/

IIRC, didn't you mention in a different thread you switched back to the Brisk Racing from the Accel plugs because the Brisk plugs performed better or something along those lines :shrug:
 

07 Boss

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IIRC, didn't you mention in a different thread you switched back to the Brisk Racing from the Accel plugs because the Brisk plugs performed better or something along those lines :shrug:

Yes but I never followed up. Turns out I was experiencing a detonation/lean issue on one cylinder that caused that one particular plug to fail. I did replace it with an old brisk plug but the other 7 are still accel and performing well. I pulled them all the other day and they all look fine. gave them a quick cleaning and threw them back in. The failure of the one plug was the strap getting destroyed and the insulator had become separated from the inner body and gases were pushing their way through the plug. I think it was caused through excessive cylinder pressure but I have no definitive proof, just an assumption since I have changed out that injector and haven't had any issues since. So yes I had a failure but I don't think it was the plugs fault. I should go back and add to that thread so folks don't get confused.
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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Yes but I never followed up. Turns out I was experiencing a detonation/lean issue on one cylinder that caused that one particular plug to fail. I did replace it with an old brisk plug but the other 7 are still accel and performing well. I pulled them all the other day and they all look fine. gave them a quick cleaning and threw them back in. The failure of the one plug was the strap getting destroyed and the insulator had become separated from the inner body and gases were pushing their way through the plug. I think it was caused through excessive cylinder pressure but I have no definitive proof, just an assumption since I have changed out that injector and haven't had any issues since. So yes I had a failure but I don't think it was the plugs fault. I should go back and add to that thread so folks don't get confused.
Agreed on going back and adding to that thread in order to prevent folks from getting confused, including this one who's seriously considering either the Accel or Brisk Racing one-piece design plugs for my next set :shrug:
 

Enfield

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For OP's benefit, it might bear repeating that pouring 1/2 can of Berryman B-12 Chemtool Fuel Injector Cleaner into 1/2 tank of gas, then driving around for an hour, will help immensely when it comes to removing the other 7 plugs. Just saying...
Enfield
 

DieHarder

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I have used all three plugs mentioned. Only thing about the Champions were the tips burnt pretty fast. Only lasted ~20K and then went back to HT0's. Later, upgraded to Brisk's and been running them ever since. Expensive, yes. But I'd rather have a strong one-piece plug vs having to deal with any more broken ones. Of course you can always get away with using the two-piece plugs if you're religious about cleaning them every so often (6 -12 mos) and don't torque the sh** out of 'em.
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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Unless enough carbon builds up around the ground shields? only then will the plugs seize up inside the heads. If the plugs are changed between every 3-5 years or between every 10k-15k miles? they won't seize up inside the heads due from carbon build-up. The plugs seize up inside the heads from years and years of carbon build up around the ground shields, especially on those with higher mileage above 50k miles. Therefore, when people expect they can wait up to 10 years+ that put nearly 100k miles on their spark plugs before changing them, is when they don't realize the ground shields will seize inside the heads due to years of carbon build up from putting 50k miles and higher on their spark plugs. My car currently has 30k miles on her and on it's third set of spark plugs in which none of them have ever broken, including the original Motorcraft plugs. My local Ford technician has also confirmed that as long as the spark plugs are changed between every 3-5 years or every 10k-15k miles? the plugs won't get the amount of carbon build up on the ground shields causing them to seize up inside the heads. IMHO, as long as high-temp nickel anti-seize is applied to the ground shields, along with following the Ford TSB extraction procedure? the spark plugs should all come out in one piece. Also note, that OEM torque specs call for 25ft/lbs.
 

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