Blew it up right! Blown motor thread #923703460460

[AbdullaGT500]

Are there any major vendors that sell a complete longblock? I'm assuming my heads will be screwed anyways so I might as well get a complete assembled engine.

 

[calispecial08]

If you plan on going to 600rwhp, dont get the 302E. They aren't built to handle that power reliable. Any of the sponsors can get you a built shortblock, but make sure you get all ARP and billet oil pump gears. Talk with them about your driving habits and change your compression as needed.

the 302E is rated way about 600HP IIRC...are you thinking of the 302EF? because the 302EF is the one that is only rated to 600hp because they use a mach 1 block vs the 05+ block that they use for the 302E

 

[AbdullaGT500]

The 302E says it's rated to 1000 hp.
I'm not too concerned with how much power it can hold as I probably won't reach the 600 mark, just as long as it's reliable.

 

[calispecial08]

thats what i thought man!
if you don't plan on going over 600 you should check out the 302EF they use all the same internals as the 302E the only difference is the block and they are running a special right now they are like $2999

 

[TheKurgan]

That looks like your typical whipple broken rod. Not tune related, just too much low end torque.

 

[one.wicked.stang]

Did you ever send logs to where you got the tune? Sounds like the tune may have went lean. I went thru about 12-13 tunes with LITO before we got a good tune, did ALOT of logging and emailing back and forth. He told me he doesnt do "race tunes, or track tunes". He tunes for safety and reliability, now this latest tune is slightly rich on the top end of it, little safety buffer. Im on a 3.25 pulley (also have a 3.375) with 12# boost (according to AM gauge). Logs all look great. I run 93 Shell gas. Same as you, stock bottom end. I know Im playing with fire on a stock bottom end, but if it ever POPS it will be me that caused it, not the tune. I am an Auto though.

 

[Sharad]

Sorry for your loss Abdulla.

Our 2010 GT has a JDM long-block with a Roush blower. It just made 701rwhp and the car is beaten on pretty regularly.

Very happy with the JDM setup!

 

[TimMcc]

Shit whore!

 

[AbdullaGT500]

Did you ever send logs to where you got the tune? Sounds like the tune may have went lean. I went thru about 12-13 tunes with LITO before we got a good tune, did ALOT of logging and emailing back and forth. He told me he doesnt do "race tunes, or track tunes". He tunes for safety and reliability, now this latest tune is slightly rich on the top end of it, little safety buffer. Im on a 3.25 pulley (also have a 3.375) with 12# boost (according to AM gauge). Logs all look great. I run 93 Shell gas. Same as you, stock bottom end. I know Im playing with fire on a stock bottom end, but if it ever POPS it will be me that caused it, not the tune. I am an Auto though.

I never did any datalogging with it, but I always watched my wideband closely. The weird thing is that it didn't let go in the upper range, nor at WOT. I think it was just too much for the rods and I don't believe it was tune related at all. My next tune will be through Lito for sure. I run Shell 93 only as well.

 

[Wlkn Tal]

Sorry to hear about your misforture. I just whippled mine a month or so ago, and am laying down 474HP with a custom tune. From what I hear it's not if it will happen, but when. So needless to say I'm concerned this will happens to me, but hopefully not anytime soon

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

The lol'd at your title.

Man, I guess it's luck of the draw if any stock motor can take a slight beating. Some fair better than others but some seem as weak as balsa wood!!!!!!!!

All I can say is build it up and hit 700rwhp!!!!! You know you want to.

 

[gtcs07]

Nooooo.... Sorry to hear man

 

[BruceH]

Are there any major vendors that sell a complete longblock? I'm assuming my heads will be screwed anyways so I might as well get a complete assembled engine.

Now is the time to decide what you want to do with the motor. If you want a stronger replacement for what you had it's a no brainer. Aluminator and frpp heads, swap your stuff over in less than a day and you are done for under $6k including all parts with a little more flow than before.

If you have ever thought about changing cams or springs for a higher rpm limit (a spring swap will also help hold boost) or just more flow now is the time to do it. The same goes for a stroker, big bore, or all out super high horsepower motor, now is the time to do it if you want to go there.

You have a few decisions to make so take a little time and think about it. Think about all the failed motor threads you have seen, what the common denomonator was, power level, parts, tune, whatever.

It will be hard to decipher and digest all the info available and all the opinions you will find. Try to stick with experienced opinions.

Looking forward to the build thread.

 

[AbdullaGT500]

The lol'd at your title.

Man, I guess it's luck of the draw if any stock motor can take a slight beating. Some fair better than others but some seem as weak as balsa wood!!!!!!!!

All I can say is build it up and hit 700rwhp!!!!! You know you want to.

I wish I could make that kind of power reliably, I don't think the Whipple can spin fast enough!

Nooooo.... Sorry to hear man

This is all your fault for selling me the whipple! lol

 

[calispecial08]

Man, I guess it's luck of the draw if any stock motor can take a slight beating. Some fair better than others but some seem as weak as balsa wood!!!!!!!!

That's how it is man, just look at Marc running like 550 or however much he was putting down on stock block and he got away with drag racing the car like that for a whole season..

 

[AbdullaGT500]

Now is the time to decide what you want to do with the motor. If you want a stronger replacement for what you had it's a no brainer. Aluminator and frpp heads, swap your stuff over in less than a day and you are done for under $6k including all parts with a little more flow than before.

If you have ever thought about changing cams or springs for a higher rpm limit (a spring swap will also help hold boost) or just more flow now is the time to do it. The same goes for a stroker, big bore, or all out super high horsepower motor, now is the time to do it if you want to go there.

You have a few decisions to make so take a little time and think about it. Think about all the failed motor threads you have seen, what the common denomonator was, power level, parts, tune, whatever.

It will be hard to decipher and digest all the info available and all the opinions you will find. Try to stick with experienced opinions.

Looking forward to the build thread.

I'm not looking for huge numbers, right around 600 is where I want it to stay. I'll have the motor put in, broken in with the same pulley that is on it now, then get a 10 rib belt drive and up the boost. I may get some blower cams, just depends on how much money is left over after I buy all the parts I need.

As for the aluminator and heads for under $6000 with all parts, where are you finding that? Cheapest I found the aluminator for was $3400, plus the heads are $900 each, then I have to buy all the small parts needed.

Thanks for the input, this is the exact info I'm looking for.

 

[BruceH]

I'm not looking for huge numbers, right around 600 is where I want it to stay. I'll have the motor put in, broken in with the same pulley that is on it now, then get a 10 rib belt drive and up the boost. I may get some blower cams, just depends on how much money is left over after I buy all the parts I need.

As for the aluminator and heads for under $6000 with all parts, where are you finding that? Cheapest I found the aluminator for was $3400, plus the heads are $900 each, then I have to buy all the small parts needed.

Thanks for the input, this is the exact info I'm looking for.

I'm ballparking it. Heads are $850 each from Tousley = $1700, I figured $3500 for the Aluminator. The last time I priced one it was $3200 so this was just a ballpark. Anyway that would be $5200. Anything over $1650 from Tousley is free shipping. A head changing kit is $59 includes head gaskets and bolts. You will also need a lower gasket kit $50, valve cover and intake gaskets $50, new tensioners $70, fluids, filter, rtv, etc. $50.

All that is still under $5500 and there is still a $500 reserve for anything else that comes up. If you wanted new lash adjusters and rockers they are $300 for all from Tousley. New oil pump with pickup is under $100. You may find other things that need replacement but I really doubt it.

One thing I've done on both of my builds is to invest in a good balancer. Make sure it's sfi rated.

 

[notastockdohc]

Dang hate to hear about your engine. But quick question I thought the 05+ gt used a Mach 1 aluminuim block from factory? Was I miss informed? Again I hope you get it back together and hope it runs like a beast.

 

[BruceH]

Dang hate to hear about your engine. But quick question I thought the 05+ gt used a Mach 1 aluminuim block from factory? Was I miss informed? Again I hope you get it back together and hope it runs like a beast.

You were misinformed. S197 4.6 uses a 3L casting number prefix. Mach1 block has a 1L prefix. The differences are slight imo. I've built a motor with both blocks and am currently using a 1L casting.

IMO the 600hp "rating" is conservative. It comes from Sean Hyland splitting a block at 800 hp which doesn't really mean anything to me. The 1L block uses the same strong 6 bolt main caps as a 3L.

Here's the bottom of a 1L block.

Top:

Bottom of a 3L.

Top of a 3L.

 

[Big50]

Whatever you do make sure your tune checked. Email tunes need to be verified on a dyno and checked for timing. There's a good chance your rods let go do to detonation. And just because you weren't high up in the rpm band doesn't mean it wasn't the tune. I would guess this is tune related being that it let go under part throttle. For example, I felt my tune was off and took my car to a more experienced tuner. The tune was completely safe in the uppper rpm when at full throttle except there was way to much timing in the lower rpms from 1500-2200 and I was getting tip in detonation.

I'm a firm believer in getting the best tune. My buddy had 60k on his stock motor, 600+ passes at the track with a Saleen making anywhere from 480-520 whp. Most was done in the 480 whp and the 520 was on race gas near the end of the motor. Tune is VERY important. So make sure you do your homework on who you want tune your new set up and if you get an email tune make sure you get it double checked by someone who knows what they are doing. Just my 2 cents