BMR K-Member Install...Questions!

BadPiggy

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Guys,

Installing a shitload of parts from BMR. Right now I'm tightening everything down and I run across this situation. Wondering what to do and I know many of you are running the K, too.

I have the K bolted down to spec, now tightening all the add-on parts. I'm not sure how critical getting the K centered is. The 4 bolts under the motor appear to be offset a small amount. In these pics you can see the small space that I'm referring to. I'm wondering if I need to stop, loosen the K bolts and ever so slightly shift the K, motor attached...just enough to center the body holes. All 4 of these bolts have just about the same space showing.

My main concern is the K being able to eventually open the holes up and creating a helluva problem.

Do I run with it?
Or do I stop, loosen bolts, shift it?

Is it that critical?

I'm running adjustable BMR A-arms if that matters.

k2_zps1da1d940.jpg

k1_zps28497364.jpg
 

skwerl

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It wouldn't hurt. It's a PITA trying to get it lined up and bolted in by yourself, but when I did mine I took the extra couple minutes to loosen the bolts and make sure nothing was bound up once I got it in place. Then once everything was settled I went back and tightened everything down.
 

Roadracer350

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Is it just big holes opened up for the studs? Can you make a round alum spacer that will center everything up?
 

skwerl

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Why are the holes so big?

I thought the same thing when I first installed mine. But the fact is the holes are slightly enlarged to account for variances from one car to the next. There's really not as much slop as it appears and in fact you'd be lucky to get 1/8" of movement with all the bolts loose. Torque them down properly and it's not going anywhere.
 

Timmbo

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What is the weight savings between this and the stock k member? How difficult is the install? I guess basically you put the car on jack stands, support the engine with a cherry picker and remove the old K member. Are you reusing the factory control arms?
 

gizmo5

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Mine wasn't perfectly centered either. It's fine.
 

skwerl

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What is the weight savings between this and the stock k member? How difficult is the install? I guess basically you put the car on jack stands, support the engine with a cherry picker and remove the old K member. Are you reusing the factory control arms?

The weight is fairly substantial, maybe 20 lbs. BMR's website will have the exact numbers. A arms are quite a difference as well. I swapped mine by myself in about 3 hours in my garage. I didn't use a motor hoist, I used a floor jack with a large block of wood under the oil pan to support the motor. The hoist would have been better but it wasn't bad. It's only 4 bolts on each side.
 

BadPiggy

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What is the weight savings between this and the stock k member? How difficult is the install? I guess basically you put the car on jack stands, support the engine with a cherry picker and remove the old K member. Are you reusing the factory control arms?

You can reuse the OEM arms or buy aftermarket (BMR) for additional weight savings.

The install is pretty easy.

The weight savings is about 26lbs.
That's just a guess.
Look it up on BMR website and they give actual weight savings.
 

CPRsm

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Perfectly fine. Tighten that shit down and call it a day.
 

Timmbo

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Thanks for the info. Will probably do this some day to offset some of the weight of the B326.
 

Weou09

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Mine also looked like that. When I took it to my alignment shop, some how I was lucky I guess) it was still perfect.
 

AutoXRacer

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I tried to center mine...as I took measurements...

I installed mine with an empty engine bay though. Now that the motor is in with headers and such, I wish I would have skewed the K-member towards the driver's side slightly to buy my more clearance between the passenger header and chassis.

Its OK the way it is...no contact, but its sure close. lol

The major benefit to upgrading the k-member is the open access to the motor!!!
Thats been my greatest appreciation of the upgrade.
 

Scott

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When I installed my BMR K my A-Arm Support Brace was not in. I thought everything was fine, but because I was waiting on the A-Arm Support brace I did not get the car aligned. When my Support Brace came in I was shocked that the holes did not line up. Loosening everything off and then installing the A-Arm Support Brace helped "square" things off significantly as far as I am concerned. My Personal recommendation is that the A-Arm Support Brace should always be installed with the K-Member.

 

BadPiggy

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When I installed my BMR K my A-Arm Support Brace was not in. I thought everything was fine, but because I was waiting on the A-Arm Support brace I did not get the car aligned. When my Support Brace came in I was shocked that the holes did not line up. Loosening everything off and then installing the A-Arm Support Brace helped "square" things off significantly as far as I am concerned. My Personal recommendation is that the A-Arm Support Brace should always be installed with the K-Member.


Yes, I'm using the A arm brace.
 

AutoXRacer

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I couldn't get my A-Arm brace to bolt in...the holes were 0.25" off.
I even tried to compress the k-member arms together to bring the holes closer without luck. So I used the Steeda G-Trac bar instead and it bolted right up... lol
 

07Bossman

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I couldn't get my A-Arm brace to bolt in...the holes were 0.25" off.
I even tried to compress the k-member arms together to bring the holes closer without luck. So I used the Steeda G-Trac bar instead and it bolted right up... lol

That's not very confidence inspiring if you are hoping bmr has high quality jigs/parts.
 

AutoXRacer

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I'm the only one that has had that issue...not sure if its my specific car or one off k-member. Too many variables to be sure...

I know it works great though!! I am super happy with my BMR purchase!!
 

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