Bolt in motor (I screwed myself)

05stroker

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^Wow, that is a big jump. Just think how much you could dial back the boost then. I have run as much as 19-20lbs on my 11:1 engine(on a stock crank even). I say if you don't have any problem running e85 all the time then go for it.

What is this "dial back" you speak of... lol

I get what you are saying. I am replacing a 75 to 100 shot for the extra C/R though.
 

JoshK

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Oh, sure. I have been thinking about how you set up that nitrous. Care to share here, or pm me?
 

BruceH

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Using the calculator shows that with the change from 9.01:1 to 11.61:1 will result in the same boosted compression ratio as raising the boost from 23 psi to 34 psi.

So in the end you should be able to dial the boost back and still make the same or more power. Less stress on the blower, less hp being sucked from the motor, less belt slip, lower iats.
 

Ampire

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Well if it makes you feel any better after doing my first $$$$ motor swap on my old car, after months of work, got it all up and running, tuned, 3 days later a drunk driver crashed into it and totaled my car.

My sympathies, get it back up and running!
 
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Mystickeith50

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Well if it makes you feel any better after doing my first $$$$ motor swap on my old car, after months of work, got it all up and running, tuned, 3 days later a drunk driver crashed into it and totaled my car.

My sympathies, get it back up and running!

Bah I had the same thing happen to me 13 years ago. I did the motor, trans, rear end, custom paint, etc etc and on my way to fill her up for the first time a school teacher ran a stop sign ripping my car in half and almost killed me.
 

05stroker

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Damn Billy. Sorry to hear that man.

Thanks Greg.

I got the motor tore down today and the cylinder walls look good. They will be honed for the new rings though. I have decided to get the Manley flattops (11.61 c/r) coming this week and remove my N2O kit and sale it. I am going to see if I can get them with the 3v valve relief already in them.

I have also decided the heads look good enough to clean up and reuse. I am thinking about sending them to a local guy that originally built my forged motor and have him rework the combustion chambers similar to the FRPP heads to get more flow past the valves. Any advice here would be welcome.

My head are a simple intake and exhaust port job from Kuntz Racing. I thought they were originally from Livernois but, after talking to a guy a few weeks ago that worked at the shop that did my first built motor, I have found that they at from Kuntz Racing.
 

Department Of Boost

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I have also decided the heads look good enough to clean up and reuse. I am thinking about sending them to a local guy that originally built my forged motor and have him rework the combustion chambers similar to the FRPP heads to get more flow past the valves. Any advice here would be welcome.

Your head guy should know what to do. But on a basic level you want to remove material around the valves while still keeping the combustion chamber as compact as possible. It's not like you are going too be able to take too much material out and hurt your c/r much.

In a perfect world you would get the chambers (heads) done and then have pistons made to match/keep the combustion chamber as compact as possible.
 

05stroker

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Your head guy should know what to do. But on a basic level you want to remove material around the valves while still keeping the combustion chamber as compact as possible. It's not like you are going too be able to take too much material out and hurt your c/r much.

In a perfect world you would get the chambers (heads) done and then have pistons made to match/keep the combustion chamber as compact as possible.
Here is how Kuntz Racing does them now.

images


Here is the FRPP.

images


So removing more around the valves and milling the heads some to keep the combustion chamber down would be better?
 

Department Of Boost

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Here is how Kuntz Racing does them now.

images


Here is the FRPP.

images


So removing more around the valves and milling the heads some to keep the combustion chamber down would be better?

I'm mostly talking out of my ass here. I know a lot of head theory, but I'm pretty limited in practical application. I've done a bunch of Ducati 4v stuff.....and that is about it. We did a lot of work on combustion chambers though. That was the only way to make good power. We were running 15.5:1 and the chambers were so tight that the pistons would just kiss the heads where the rocked in the bores/the titanium rods stretched. That said, I'll take a stab at it.

For a NA application I like the Kuntz chamber. For a FI application the FRPP one looks better too me. If I had a clean sheet and an open wallet I would go after something like the FRPP chamber. Then I would do a custom piston "top" to match the combustion chamber profile. If I couldn't get the c/r high enough with just the piston then I would mill the heads.

Where your at you are splitting hairs though. Even if it was worth 50hp it's not that much compared to what your making. There is something to be said for not having custom parts. Using off the shelf pistons is nice. So is using un-milled heads.
 

05stroker

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I'm mostly talking out of my ass here. I know a lot of head theory, but I'm pretty limited in practical application. I've done a bunch of Ducati 4v stuff.....and that is about it. We did a lot of work on combustion chambers though. That was the only way to make good power. We were running 15.5:1 and the chambers were so tight that the pistons would just kiss the heads where the rocked in the bores/the titanium rods stretched. That said, I'll take a stab at it.

For a NA application I like the Kuntz chamber. For a FI application the FRPP one looks better too me. If I had a clean sheet and an open wallet I would go after something like the FRPP chamber. Then I would do a custom piston "top" to match the combustion chamber profile. If I couldn't get the c/r high enough with just the piston then I would mill the heads.

Where your at you are splitting hairs though. Even if it was worth 50hp it's not that much compared to what your making. There is something to be said for not having custom parts. Using off the shelf pistons is nice. So is using un-milled heads.
definitely going to stay with an off-the-shelf piston. I will talk to my guy here about the heads then.
 

ethic1

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I had my heads re-done by Rear Morris in Dallas area. He does BA work but is slow. He spec'd out some stuff for a GT500 and said it would make such and such power, and was right on the dot.
 

crownaviation

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I had my heads re-done by Rear Morris in Dallas area. He does BA work but is slow.

Welcome to the machine shop world. Union mentality? Dunno but if they say one month... Be happy if they start in two. Almost all are that way and if they are good they don't care either. The guys that do my motor with blow me away with quality but Damn are they slow!
 

ethic1

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Are you talking about Reher Morrison in Arlington?


Thats it!


Edit: Just looked at the pics again and mine look like inbetween the two above. They were originally Stage 3 Livernois CC that he did some more work on.
 
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05stroker

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Is that the plan? You could hit over 11:1 with a 6.6 dish and the stage 3 heads with a 48cc combustion chamber. Flat tops with a 1cc exhaust valve relief would give you over 12.

Can the valve relief be cut into a std Manley flattop piston?

Manley doesn't offer a 3v stroker flattop.
 

dysan

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I don't see why not...Two motors ago I had the 14cc manley dish pistons and the shop that built that engine for me cut the exhaust relief in it. I'm hoping my current engine doesn't need the relief cut in the flat top since I have the same pistons you will be using. I have much less cam than you though.
 

05stroker

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I don't see why not...Two motors ago I had the 14cc manley dish pistons and the shop that built that engine for me cut the exhaust relief in it. I'm hoping my current engine doesn't need the relief cut in the flat top since I have the same pistons you will be using. I have much less cam than you though.

Are you locking VCT full advanced?

My 18 cc pistons I have now don't require it. Just wasn't sure about the FT. I am going to order them and check the clearance before having them coated.

I have been talking to Manuel about retarding my cams 4 deg. also so that may help some.
 

dysan

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Heh...I was locked advanced but I will be doing the same thing as you retarding my cams somewhere between 4-8 degrees. Manuel suggested the same thing to me.
 

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