Broken block? Check this out

ford20

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Are you guys trying say that im not being truthful? Because im not sure why it would benefit me to no be straight up about this....

If the Valve Pockets go deeper into the Deck then you will need a bigger dome to make up for the material removed for the valve pockets

I got more pictures i am uploading now......

No not at all, the first picture I posted was to show that the cut outs in your piston are in fact deeper which was why the side profile didn't seem to be the same as the one that WBT posted. Me personally I am just trying to learn and the best way to learn is by asking questions and by doing research. As I have said multiple numerous times before I don't know a lot about this sort of stuff and am trying to learn why certain things are done and the reasons behind them, my apologies if my ignorance made you think I was trying to call you out on this because that wasn't the case. I know you guys are testing the block for FRPP because the stock blocks tend to break after a certain amount of boost as Dave has previously said, so in my brain I would assume that the more material in the piston the stronger it would be which is why your cutouts are deeper as you have raised the HP goals for the car since you are testing the block for FRPP. But you corrected me and answered my question.

IMO you have no reason to not be truthful because all you are doing is building your engine, there is no real gain for you or for JPC in doing so.
 

Wicked97

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No not at all, the first picture I posted was to show that the cut outs in your piston are in fact deeper which was why the side profile didn't seem to be the same as the one that WBT posted. Me personally I am just trying to learn and the best way to learn is by asking questions and by doing research. As I have said multiple numerous times before I don't know a lot about this sort of stuff and am trying to learn why certain things are done and the reasons behind them, my apologies if my ignorance made you think I was trying to call you out on this because that wasn't the case. I know you guys are testing the block for FRPP because the stock blocks tend to break after a certain amount of boost as Dave has previously said, so in my brain I would assume that the more material in the piston the stronger it would be which is why your cutouts are deeper as you have raised the HP goals for the car since you are testing the block for FRPP. But you corrected me and answered my question.

IMO you have no reason to not be truthful because all you are doing is building your engine, there is no real gain for you or for JPC in doing so.


Thanks man!!

Yea we are not trying to be the fastest 2011 boss block paxton powered stick shift with 11.5-1 compression.... :roflmao:

All im saying is its a custom piston we changed what we did to make the most sense for us and thats really it :thumb2:

If you have any other questions i will be glad to answer them
 

wbt

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jbpiston3_zps457446c4.jpg


JBpistons_zpsc10aa465.jpg


JBpiston4_zps8d6ac100.jpg


jbpistons2_zps860d8385.jpg




Not sure why i would be considered an untrusted source....

I always try to play it straight with you guys..

We have changed the valve pockets to give us room for bigger valves and cams.. why would you not change it?

Understood. I like to have details. How many cc's are each valve relief and are you moving the top ring down any to compensate for the increased depth?
 

Wicked97

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Understood. I like to have details. How many cc's are each valve relief and are you moving the top ring down any to compensate for the increased depth?


i would have to dig up the spec sheet on the pistons for the exact depth on the pockets.

The ring is lower, on Blower cars we run a thick deck to hold up to the abuse. I can get the exact info if you like.

NA we move the ring higher than stock on a custom build. :thumb2:
 

wbt

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i would have to dig up the spec sheet on the pistons for the exact depth on the pockets.

The ring is lower, on Blower cars we run a thick deck to hold up to the abuse. I can get the exact info if you like.

NA we move the ring higher than stock on a custom build. :thumb2:

Got it. If you don't have it handy that is OK. Thanks for answering the questions. :)
 

Wicked97

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What is the RA finish on the deck in those pics? What are you guys using for decking?

we did not re-deck this block for frpp testing. that is factory ford finish it checked 58ra that's what ford uses on all its currant engines. we use when needed a cbn cutter and ideally achieve a 25 -40 ra. in all our years of experience we haven't had leaking and/or gasket problem's unless the ra is greater than 75ra with an mls gasket.

Thanks
 

Wicked97

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Just an Update Guys!!

We have been running this block for awhile now with no issues!!

so far its held up to 1260 HP!!
 

beefcake

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I don't believe it will be offered to the public at all in this form.

On the street it's a good design and should live at the 800 or so rwhp number for some time.

At the track under heavy load, it didn't hold up as well as we would have liked.

All the cars that pushed into the 8 second zone cracked their blocks, us included.

We are waiting on Ford to release the updated version that they are working on and go back to testing.
 

psfracer

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I don't believe it will be offered to the public at all in this form.

On the street it's a good design and should live at the 800 or so rwhp number for some time.

At the track under heavy load, it didn't hold up as well as we would have liked.

All the cars that pushed into the 8 second zone cracked their blocks, us included.

We are waiting on Ford to release the updated version that they are working on and go back to testing.

Well that sucks big time. Its hard to put serious money in a race motor when you can't count on the foundation. Hell thats why I spent $2k on my race block (A460).
 

Bud

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Mine only has to hold together for a few passes at that level, sure hope it doesn't let go catastrophically and take out some other expensive parts. I envy those with the piece of mind of a solid block.
 

beefcake

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I think Evo has a 8 second coyote with a L&M modded block.

Edit. Found it.

http://www.dragzine.com/news/evolution-performance-sets-coyote-et-record-on-six-day-build/

none of these blocks have been tested for "an extended time"

the green car had one test session, and the Norwalk race, not sure if it's been back out since.

I don't see longevity wise it being any different. we didn't have issues in the cylinder wall, the valley actually cracked on our engine.

I believe the bracing just transferred the stress elsewhere in the block.

that's why at this point, we opted for a filled block.

we will also be doing one of mmr's sleeved blocks unfilled to see how well that holds up to the power.

at the 700-800 rwhp, we had no issues with the stock block, even without the bracking. we ran high 9's on it for 1 years, and low 9's for another 6 months before the cylinder wall finally went,

that was with well over 100 passes on the block and a lot of street miles.

that is what is going to prove longevity. a full season of consistent passes. street miles really don't mean anything. you could pull 2000hp on the dyno 1 time, and not track the car and drive it for years, that doesn't mean it's going to hold up to abuse.

hopefully either the mmr block, or redesigned frpp block will be up to that task
 

stkjock

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I'd have to ask about how much testing its seen.

For all wither of know, it could have seen 100 dyno pulls
 
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Bud

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Hopefully lightweight, turbo, and a brake allow for an 8.99 without stressing the stock block too much. I just want that slip and I'll be happy. Doing it at 3150 has to be easier on parts than 3700
 

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