+1 but can not be much with alum. My question when you can answer is how much $$. I want one shipped to my door.This and built right I bet can really handle some major numbers. it would not surprise me if you ordered a new 13 Cobra Jet that this would be in it now!Any idea how much more (if any) this one will weigh vs stock?
The big test is going to be longevity. Can a full weight street car run 8.5's an entire season making around 1200 rwhp??? Guess we'll just have to see!!!!!

So beef did you have problems with your block? I guess maybe I missed it. Are you gonna be testing this block as well or l&ms reinforced block?There are shops that are doing reinforcements on the current blocks.
Mike @ L&M,
MMR
First on the stock block, I think you are better to over 700 rwhp with a good tune.
We ran the 2011 season at roughly 750 rwhp with probably 100 1/4 mile passes with no issues.
And then through half of this season at 1000rwhp before the block had issues in that area.
I think with proper tuning, you should be good for quite some time around 800 or so rwhp.
On the new block, it's not available yet and no testing has been done yet. (That will change soon I hear.......)
The big test is going to be longevity. Can a full weight street car run 8.5's an entire season making around 1200 rwhp??? Guess we'll just have to see!!!!!
So beef did you have problems with your block? I guess maybe I missed it. Are you gonna be testing this block as well or l&ms reinforced block?
Ah crap, I guess I misread the postings on here. Either way, glad to see they're strengthening these blocks
BES Racing Engines does all of my Engine Work. However, if I was close to Mike, I would not hesitate to use him, he does great work.
I did have problems after The Super Bowl race in Joliet.
I was at my local test n tune, and started getting a little antifreeze out of the cap.
We figured that the car had just finally stretched the factory head bolts, as we were still running on them.
Upon cleaning up the cylinders, we found a small hairline crack the the top center (right where they have put the new material in the block).
Nothing was hurt in the engine, other than that. We grabbed one of the few 11/12 blocks that were left, and moved everything over, we did freshen up the bearings while we were at it. Everything else looked great.
Well nmra Bradenton will be a hell of a show if these blocks are around in certain cars!! But how much more are these tranies going to take
The "problem" area is only if you're making over 700 hp or so. This new block is for the guys looking to make more than that reliably. It's like calling the stock rods a problem. Considering the power they'll handle, and the power the majority of guys are making, they're not a problem. It's when guys are looking to push them beyond that when they become a "problem."
Hmm any idea when this would become available....whats the testing cycle consist of?
I guess Ford Racing is saying it will be released in the first quarter of 2013? Can anyone verify?
thanks for the clarification 19cobra93
this is interesting to say the least... wonder why they felt the need to strengthen that area for a production vehicle?
Any idea how much more (if any) this one will weigh vs stock?
Will you be able to bore this out more than the .10 of the OEM block?
Has anyone tried reinforcing the current block?
For instance, bore a 1/2" hole down into that water jacket and drop a 1/2" dowel pin in it. Should result in a similar strengthening. I know in the Honda world there were all kinds of tricks to make that open deck block deal with making retarded power.
EDIT - Like this -
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Obviously you would want to remove as little material as possible, while also fully engaging the pin, so they would need to be size appropriately. Gut feeling is that you size the diameter of the pin such that you are removing a .040-.050 deep crescent from both sides of the opening. Press it in, bore it, deck it, and build it.
I'll be saying a prayer, sacrificing a chicken, etc, whatever to hope my block survives this season. I really should swap over to the new block when it is out but too many other places to put money at the moment. If mine does go I hope it isn't catastrophic and I catch it early, would suck to waste a bunch of expensive rods/pistons.
I was wondering the same. I was wondering if the cyl wall loading at the bottom was causing the distortion.Just because your putting a dowel in does not mean your addressing the whole issue. Anyone who has been around big power engines will tell you that a more rigid cyl wall is going to make more power. It will hold its shape the whole way through not just at the top. You guys see them break at the top, I will bet big dollars once you fix the top your going to blow out the middle.
how much power will you be making