broken spark plug help pzzzzz

[erat]

I went through this a month or two ago. Lost 7 out of 8 plugs and actually the 8th plug I wasn't gentle with it out of frustration and it was the only one that came out in one piece. And there are a few posts on here with some good information on this same subject. I think acutally heating the engine up would help before starting.

I had about four that only the hex came out and all but one of the 7 left a small piece of porceline in the engine, like rite at the end of the plug, which initially concerned me.

I consulted with a dealer and my engine guy who assured me the proceline wasnt a concern that if it was in there it would blow out the exhaust.

So, this is basically what I suggest based upon my experience:

Lowes has an accessory pack that you can buy to add to a shop vac that reduces your hose down to something like 1/4" and will fit down into the cylinder. Use it to clean before tapping and after pulling the last piece out. This worked well. Empty the bucket on your shop vac before you start so you can monitor what you are cleaning out of the cylinders both before and after you tap them with the lisle tool.

For the ones where just the hex came out, get a really long pair of needle nose pliers and pull the fuk out of it, it will come out usually broken and will leave the electrode, you will pull that also prior to tapping, I wouldnt tap through it. I bought a pair of Proto 577-240G long reach needle nose pliers because they were handy. They were about 12-18" long and gave good leverage.

I vacuumed before I tapped them and I also vacuumed into the cylinder after I pulled them.

I also bought a bore scope, but the head on it will not fit down into the cylinder, so dont buy a 12v Dewalt if you go that route. My engine guy says there are borescopes that do fit down in the cylinder opeing and woudn't be a bad idea if you can borrow one. Otherwise, like I said earlier if there is anything in there, it will likely blow throught the exhaust.

Make sure you grease the tapping end of the lisle tool otherwise I doubt it will tap all the cylinders before breaking. It also works well for capturing bits of porceline.

I also tried a heat gun to warm the plugs up before pulling them, but it didnt help at all.

Lastly, keep good track of everything that comes out in order. It would be easy to loose the electrode in the cylinder.

 

[erat]

im at 74k

I was at 55k.

There are posts here that recommend pulling, cleaning and lubing every 10k which wouldn't be a bad idea. Its the carbon build up on the lower shaft that makes them stick.

 

[killswitch06GT]

I went through this a month or two ago. Lost 7 out of 8 plugs and actually the 8th plug I wasn't gentle with it out of frustration and it was the only one that came out in one piece. And there are a few posts on here with some good information on this same subject. I think acutally heating the engine up would help before starting.

I had about four that only the hex came out and all but one of the 7 left a small piece of porceline in the engine, like rite at the end of the plug, which initially concerned me.

I consulted with a dealer and my engine guy who assured me the proceline wasnt a concern that if it was in there it would blow out the exhaust.

So, this is basically what I suggest based upon my experience:

Lowes has an accessory pack that you can buy to add to a shop vac that reduces your hose down to something like 1/4" and will fit down into the cylinder. Use it to clean before tapping and after pulling the last piece out. This worked well. Empty the bucket on your shop vac before you start so you can monitor what you are cleaning out of the cylinders both before and after you tap them with the lisle tool.

For the ones where just the hex came out, get a really long pair of needle nose pliers and pull the fuk out of it, it will come out usually broken and will leave the electrode, you will pull that also prior to tapping, I wouldnt tap through it. I bought a pair of Proto 577-240G long reach needle nose pliers because they were handy. They were about 12-18" long and gave good leverage.

I vacuumed before I tapped them and I also vacuumed into the cylinder after I pulled them.

I also bought a bore scope, but the head on it will not fit down into the cylinder, so dont buy a 12v Dewalt if you go that route. My engine guy says there are borescopes that do fit down in the cylinder opeing and woudn't be a bad idea if you can borrow one. Otherwise, like I said earlier if there is anything in there, it will likely blow throught the exhaust.

Make sure you grease the tapping end of the lisle tool otherwise I doubt it will tap all the cylinders before breaking. It also works well for capturing bits of porceline.

I also tried a heat gun to warm the plugs up before pulling them, but it didnt help at all.

Lastly, keep good track of everything that comes out in order. It would be easy to loose the electrode in the cylinder.

thank you man. You said just pull on them with needle nose pliers? even if its still threaded in?

 

[05bluestang]

Question to the OP, was the engine cold when you pulled the plugs?

 

[erat]

thank you man. You said just pull on them with needle nose pliers? even if its still threaded in?

No, the needle nose is only for the ones that only the hex came out leaving the all of the porceline in the cylinder. Take the pliers and pull the porceline out, it likely will break and then just tap the bottom sleeve out.

You will also find the plugs that break below the hex will leave the electrode wire still in the cylinder. You will need those pliers for pulling that wire before you tap.

 

[killswitch06GT]

yea man when i say the hex came out i mean only the hex came out. no other pary of the plug BUT the hex.

 

[erat]

Question to the OP, was the engine cold when you pulled the plugs?

I agree with were you are heading with that.

My block was cold, because that is what the Lisle instructions said to do. But I read somewhere were the dealers are acutally running the piss out of the engines and getting them hot before pulling them, leaving no soaking time. I really think that will work because you are heating that carbon build up which may break it loose. As I remember, the instructions were to soak the plugs for 24 hours, heat with a heating gun and attemp to unscrew them, but I couldn't get the plug hot enough with just a heat gun.

 

[erat]

yea man when i say the hex came out i mean only the hex came out. no other pary of the plug BUT the hex.

Fuked up isnt it? I looked at it and said #$!#$%!#%!#$!!!!!!!

 

[killswitch06GT]

Ok I have sorta good news. The hex actually came off with the thread so the threa is not in there. I should e able to just pull on it till it breaks free as you said

 

[cop on my back]

Ok I have sorta good news. The hex actually came off with the thread so the threa is not in there. I should e able to just pull on it till it breaks free as you said

Well that is better, I thought the steel threads were still there and just the hex itself broke off, that would have been odd. All you need to do is let those plugs soak a bit and then pull the porcelin out with long needle nose pliers. Then tap the ground sheild like you did on the one plug.

You can do it!

 

[killswitch06GT]

Still trouble with one plug. The shield is still in the head and the tap won't get it!! Ugh idk what to do now. It's the last one

 

[AbdullaGT500]

Try giving Mike at QMM a call since you are local.

 

[shelbie67]

I'm so glad the 08's and up have the new head design, but i know that the one piece spark plugs are great.

 

[01yellerCobra]

I agree with were you are heading with that.

My block was cold, because that is what the Lisle instructions said to do. But I read somewhere were the dealers are acutally running the piss out of the engines and getting them hot before pulling them, leaving no soaking time. I really think that will work because you are heating that carbon build up which may break it loose. As I remember, the instructions were to soak the plugs for 24 hours, heat with a heating gun and attemp to unscrew them, but I couldn't get the plug hot enough with just a heat gun.

I changed the plugs in the wife's ride a couple weeks ago. I sea foamed it first. Then had her go get the kids from school. When she got back I pulled all the COP's and sprayed a bunch of PB Blaster in there. After letting it soak about a half hour I cracked all the plugs a quarter turn and sprayed more PB Blaster. I let it soak a few minutes and all the plugs came out in one piece. I think the hot engine is the ticket. Oh, and the car has 46K on it.

 

[erat]

Still trouble with one plug. The shield is still in the head and the tap won't get it!! Ugh idk what to do now. It's the last one

Are you sure you pushed the porceline thru enough? First thing, from what I am visioning, is re-threading the other tool and crank it till I was sure it bottomed and then re-tap.

 

[one.wicked.stang]

I pulled all the COP's and sprayed a bunch of PB Blaster in there. After letting it soak about a half hour I cracked all the plugs a quarter turn and sprayed more PB Blaster. I let it soak a few minutes and all the plugs came out in one piece. I think the hot engine is the ticket. Oh, and the car has 46K on it.

This is how I plan to do it!

 

[thad8403]

The easiest way to remove the plugs is to use a 3/8's air impact. I'm a tech and I do it all the time. Matco makes a really good tool to remove broken plugs.

 

[killswitch06GT]

My tap was stripped. Took it down to quarter mile mustang and mike got it right out.

 

[AbdullaGT500]

My tap was stripped. Took it down to quarter mile mustang and mike got it right out.

Glad to hear it!