Broken spark plug in head procedure.

[Lime1Gt]

Dangerous:: If you've tried everything possible but removing the head; Don't know what the damage might be if this didn't work but do you think using the engines compression by starting the engine for a couple of seconds, would blow the broken porcelain and/or the electrode out of the spark plug hole? Then it would leave the shell to be removed. Just a thought, if the plugs electrode ground strap isn't broken. Just worried if engine vacuum might pull the porcelain into the cylinder.

 

[07gts197]

I would forego that and just have the head removed. Its the safest bet. Though this thread is 3 months old so Im sure whatever has been done is done already.


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[Rick Simons]

Just did mine two weeks ago. 122k with the original plugs, and they were definitely worn out; approx. .060-.070" gap. Used the cold engine method, though the warm engine method makes sense. Broke them loose and then went another 1/8 turn. Poured in PB Blaster up to the hex on the plug shell then let them sit overnight. The first seven came out fairly easily, but number 8 broke. Borrowed the removal tool kit from O'Reilly's and got #8 out without drama, just took another 1/2 day. Cleaned the threads and the lower holes with a cloth soaked in PB wrapped around a small round brush, then blew them drive with compressed air. Coated the lower shell and threads of the new plugs with nickel anti-seize. Good to go.

 

[scramblr]

Just did mine two weeks ago. 122k with the original plugs, and they were definitely worn out; approx. .060-.070" gap. Used the cold engine method, though the warm engine method makes sense. Broke them loose and then went another 1/8 turn. Poured in PB Blaster up to the hex on the plug shell then let them sit overnight. The first seven came out fairly easily, but number 8 broke. Borrowed the removal tool kit from O'Reilly's and got #8 out without drama, just took another 1/2 day. Cleaned the threads and the lower holes with a cloth soaked in PB wrapped around a small round brush, then blew them drive with compressed air. Coated the lower shell and threads of the new plugs with nickel anti-seize. Good to go.

Shouldn't put anti-seize on the threads and they may back out on you, jut the lower shell. If you leave them, just double check in a while to make sure they're still torqued down.

 

[01yellerCobra]

Shouldn't put anti-seize on the threads and they may back out on you, jut the lower shell. If you leave them, just double check in a while to make sure they're still torqued down.

I've used antisieze for years and never had anything I've used it on back out. That includes spark plugs, exhaust bolts, and suspension fasteners. My belief is that if its backing out it wasn't tightened properly and would have backed out anyway.

 

[Rick Simons]

In my experience anti-sieze is a must on parts that heat cycle, especially when they're dissimilar metals. And I use a torque wrench on literally everything that I touch on this car.

 

[1950StangJump$]

Ford calls for nickel anti-seize on the bottom shaft, not the threads. Reason being, soot builds on that bottom shaft and seizes the plug to the head there. The procedure says nothing about using anti-seize on the threads, though I doubt its an issue if torqued to spec.

I find it interesting how many people claim soaking the plugs in PB Blaster or similar before they attempted to uninstall helped them come out and avoid the infamous broken plug issue. The PB Blaster will never make it to that bottom shaft where the problem exists. If the problem was indeed the threads, that would be different, but it's not.

 

[msvela448]

I've used antisieze for years and never had anything I've used it on back out. That includes spark plugs, exhaust bolts, and suspension fasteners. My belief is that if its backing out it wasn't tightened properly and would have backed out anyway.

Anything with threads does not stay tight just because of the friction of the threads. Bolts (and spark plugs) stay tight because of the proper amount of stretch which creates a clamping effect. Anti-seize will not affect a bolt's ability to stay tight if it is stretched properly. Anti-seize only prevents dissimilar metals, or metals in corrosive environments, from bonding.

Connecting rod bolts, and cylinder head bolts are a primary example of where bolt stretch is critical. They are installed with lubricant (Moly or Oil) on the threads and under the bolt head / washer surface. The best way to determine if rod bolts are tightened properly is by measuring stretch, which may, or may not... match the recommended torque spec. If you can't measure stretch then torque is the next best thing.

Tightening something by feel is the worst option... Over-torqued is half broke, and under-torqued is half loose.

With regard to the old-style spark plugs on Ford 3V engines the seizing has very little to do with the threads. The extended piece of the spark plug has a thin gap between the shell of the plug electrode extension and the cylinder head. Because it's exposed to the combustion chamber it gets filled with carbon deposits that bind the bottom portion of the plug to the cylinder head. Combine this problem with the old two-piece spark plug design and they break in half when removing. Using a one-piece spark plug will really help with this problem. Anti - seize on the spark plug threads will have little effect on the problem.

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[tbear853]

I have not read all 8 pages here. I have changed these type plugs on my '07 FX4 with 5.4-3valve ... exact same plug construction, only the heat range differed. I did it cool, used Kroil, etc ... I had 6 of the 8 come out well with patience, #2 came out leaving just the lower barrel and broken lower porcelain in the head. #8 though, the threaded body came out but it left the complete porcelain, conductor, and lower barrel stuck fast in the head.

The Lisle 65600 kit took care of #2 very easily, just follow the included instructions. #8 plug was something else, the instructions said to grab the top of the electrode and pull as you wiggle, it was in my truck and #8 was not so easy to get anything into to pull with,
so I ordered a Lisle 65710 "porcelain puller" overnighted to me. It has a 4 jaw spring steel end that snaps over the top of the electrode, it's gets used with a tube already in the kit thus locking it on. It pulled the center electrode with porcelain out, then the barrel extractor finished the job. The #2 I used the pusher to push the broken lower porcelain into the lower part of the barrel, it will not be pushed out, it gives just enough room for the barrel extractor to get a grip.

The 65600 plus the 65710 makes a 65700 kit. Might be cheaper that way. When the porcelain pusher is used, it sets a limit on how far it pushes. The kit really works. Have air and a nozzle with 1/4" ID hose for blowing out cylinders. If you put the hose into the cylinder then pull the trigger on the blow nozzle, the air going in will come back out past the hose with any porcelain particles, so wear eye protection. Really, the kit will all but guarantee no head removals.

Pictures below are same type plugs, just heat range differs.



The newer plugs have a slightly different look at lower barrel to threaded body and slightly different attachment of the ground electrode. The top of the plug also raises the seat for the coil spring thus applying more pressure in use. In this picture, the threaded seat is at the same level. You can see the change.



Anyway, doing it on my truck let me know the '08 Mustang GT will be a piece of cake.

Oh yeah, I used a smear of nickel AS on the 10mm smooth barrel extensions only.

 

[dokotadog]

Hello Everyone. I just bought a 2007 GT. Previous owner was meticulous, and kept a log of everything he did. However, I noted no log entries on the plugs. I called him, and he stated he did take the plugs out once at some point to clean them. It has 38,000 miles. I've read about this issue ad nauseam! I think I've convinced myself that an impact wrench with some soak time using carb cleaner is my best bet.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

If you've read all the posts? then use your own judgment. However, the Ford recommended TSB extraction procedure does not recommend using an impact wrench.

TSB link is provided below.

https://www.aa1car.com/library/ford_tsb_08-7-6.pdf

CAUTION DO NOT USE AIR OR POWER TOOLS FOR SPARK PLUG REMOVAL. SPARK PLUGS MUST ONLY BE REMOVED WITH HAND TOOLS. 3. Tighten, and then loosen the spark plug, working the plug back and forth. Some screeching and high effort may be noticed. The expected removal torque is about 33 lb-ft (45 N•m). Repeat the back and forth turning as needed until turning effort is reduced, and remove the spark plugs.

 

[Jack F]

I think I've convinced myself that an impact wrench with some soak time using carb cleaner is my best bet.

Yes, but warm up the engine first and buy the extraction tool anyway. You WILL break a plug someday regardless of method. And beware of Ford TSBs. They oftentimes don't coincide with the real world.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Yes, but warm up the engine first and buy the extraction tool anyway. You WILL break a plug someday regardless of method. And beware of Ford TSBs. They oftentimes don't coincide with the real world.

If the Ford TSB's didn't coincide with the real world as you claim? Ford service techs wouldn't follow the recommended procedures when customers bring in their vehicles for servicing. Therefore, I would think the engineers over at Ford have far more expertise when it comes to repair work procedures for their parts which they designed lol.

 

[Jack F]

If the Ford TSB's didn't coincide with the real world as you claim? Ford service techs wouldn't follow the recommended procedures...

Yeah, I used to be a Ford tech, Rocky.

 

[dokotadog]

So what, exactly, are you saying Jack F.....

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Yeah, I used to be a Ford tech, Rocky.

Then I stand corrected Jack, my bad

 

[Lannyl81]

Sooooo....anyone have the Lisle 65600 extraction tool that wants to rent it out to me? #1 plug broke...all the others came out nice and easy.
I really do not want to purchase one as this is the only time I will ever do this job for my daughter's '08 Mustang GT.

 

[dark steed]

Sooooo....anyone have the Lisle 65600 extraction tool that wants to rent it out to me? #1 plug broke...all the others came out nice and easy.
I really do not want to purchase one as this is the only time I will ever do this job for my daughter's '08 Mustang GT.

Where are you located?


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[07gts197]

Not sure if it was discussed in another thread but Lanny are you sure she has the earlier heads?


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[Lannyl81]

I am South of Tucson, AZ. I did find a 65600 used on ebay, so I just grabbed it. I can always re-sell it.

Would not think this '08 Mustang has the earlier 3V head design....how can I tell?