Cam Follower Failure's

s197cajungt

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Back in April I had 2 cam followers fail one on the left bank and then one on the right bank, common or uncommon?? I don't know. Now I have another failure, right bank, cam follower and dropped valve,??. What is going on????? has anyone had this happen? and what could cause this? Had new cam followers on right bank.
 
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101fng

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Sounds like you got something going on other than followers.
 

s197cajungt

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I really can't justify spending over 3 grand for follower's when many more people are getting much more rwhp than my set-up with stock heads.
 

07gtcs

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They should be hard. You shouldnt be able to just compress them down. If you can, either they just failed(Uncommon from what I understand),clogged or not getting enough oil pressure.

They just come to mind because the followers only touch 3 things, Valve stem-Cam-Lash Adjusters.

Like I said just taking a stab, I'm sure somebody with more knowledge will chime in
 

niner555

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My followers started failing at 115K miles. I have had cams since 15K miles, so I figure the additional stress performance cams place on the followers, probably cause them to start failing at the 100K level. Once one or two go bad, you have probably reached the fatigue limit and they will all start failing in short order. Just replace all your followers and don't worry about it any longer.
 
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toorbeenee

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i had that same problem, i found out that the guides are loose, so i replaced them and i used Trickflow followers
 

Guido

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i had the same issue before my rebuild, but was unaware until my builder took the heads apart. He called me up and told me "We found a cam follower just sitting in the head...nothing damaged, but it was just chillin'." So thankfully, nothing damaged my engine, but it was alarming nonetheless, and i have no clue how it happened.
 

s197cajungt

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The Facts

I went to the dealership where I get my maintance work done on my car, to have him set my fans higher due to high temps after oil weight change we were unable to set the fans cause my tuner is locked, can't make any ajustments. I think my high temp problem found me on my way home, I was at a drive-up window and out the blue, without warning, my engine made a couple of loud taps then seized up.

Towed my car home removed the cam cover on the right Pass. side to find that the 3rd cyl. cam follower failed plus dropped the valve (rear intake). I don't know what is going on but that is the third one (cam follower) to go out in 550 mi. sense April.
I haven't been beating on it or anything due to the exhaust restriction between the pipe reduction 3" to 2 1/2" to go under the control arms and my Cervini side exhaust restricting flow per say Jim Sr. who tuned my car and was only able to get to 489 rwhp. with 12 # boost without blowing/breaking anything, now i'm waiting for the 3" pipe to go under control arms from Hellion Power Systems sense i'm at stock hight. I hope you are still with me i'm doing my best to help ya'll understand.

The first 2 failures I was using Rotella T 15w40 oil, the first on driver side was at 20,380 mi, had dealership do the repairs.
The 2nd at approx. 20,460 mi, I replaced all the cam followers on that side myself and had cam polished.
At approx. 20,510 mi. I decided to have my oil filter relocated away from the exhaust, I had them replace the 15w40 with 10w30 wight oil.
After having the oil replaced to 10w30 I noticed that my temps were higher.
Normally sense turbo install my coolant temp was 199*-204* in the city with oil presure of 10-12# with 15w40.
Now after oil weight change it was 214* in the city, with oil pressure of 6-8# @ idle of 500 rpm.
The oil pressure sensor is T'd off the turbo oil supply line.

Now at 20,931 mi. the catastraphy, don't know what to think I crossed all my tees and dotted all my eyes. The follower that gaveway was new, and if you look in the pictures you can see others were failing too.
You can see signs of heat, may or maynot have been my heat issue. But what is the real issue with my engine?
I pulled the other cam cover, and not to my surprise there is a failure starting there to, but there is no sign of heat on the others like the passager side.

I wounder why on the right pass. side only the rear intake valve cam followers are being damaged, also the 2nd failure on the right pass. side that I repaired was the 4th cyl. rear intake valve hu???

I attached a few pictures of the damage for you to see, and if anyone can help me make sense of what is going on with my heads, or you may know someone who could. I really don't know what to do, replace both heads or try these again? really cain't aford it though, any help would be appreciated.
 
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crownaviation

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Stock heads and valves/valve guides? What year again and what year heads? jAny headwork performed that you know about? Have you ever instpected the valves for abnormal wear patterns? Also, what springs ane retainers are you currently using? What RPM you running that thing up to?

Lot of questions but sounds like it could be a valve or valve guide issue but hard to tell. Your pics did not load....
 

thump_rrr

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I went to the dealership where I get my maintance work done on my car, to have him set my fans higher due to high temps after oil weight change we were unable to set the fans cause my tuner is locked, can't make any ajustments. I think my high temp problem found me on my way home, I was at a drive-up window and out the blue, without warning, my engine made a couple of loud taps then seized up. Towed my car home removed the cam cover on the right Pass. side to find that the 3rd cyl. cam follower failed plus dropped the valve (rear intake). I don't know what is going on but that is the third one (cam follower) to go out in 550 mi. sense April I haven't been beating on it or anything due to the exhaust restriction between the pipe reduction to go under the control arms and my Cervini side exhaust restricting flow per say Jim Sr. who tuned my car and was only able to get to 489 rwhp. with 12 # boost without blowing/breaking anything, now i'm waiting for the 3" pipe to go under control arms from Hellion Power Systems sense i'm at stock hight. I hope you are still with me i'm doing my best to help ya'll understand.

The first 2 failures I was using Rotella T 15w40 oil, the first on driver side was at 20,380 mi, had dealership do the repairs. the 2nd at approx. 20,460 mi, I replaced all the cam followers on that side myself and had cam polished, at approx. 20,510 mi. I decided to have my oil filter relocated away from the exhaust, I had them replace the 15w40 with 10w30 wight oil. After they replaced the oil with 10w30 I noticed that my temps were higher, normally sense turbo install my coolant temp was 199*-204* in the city, now was 214* in the city, and my oil pressure was lower witch was 10-12# with 15w40, with sensor on turbo oil line, and now with 10w30 it was 6-8# with higher temps, my rpms were low to, idled was at 500 rpm. Now at 20,931 mi. the catastraphy, don't know what to think I crossed all my tees and dotted all my eyes. The follower that gaveway was new, and if you look in the pictures you can see others were failing too, you can see the heat, may or maynot have been my heat issue. But what is the real issue with my engine, I pulled the other cam cover, and not to my surprise there is a failure starting there to, but there is no sign of heat on the others like the passager side. I wounder why on the right pass. side only the rear intake valve cam followers are being damaged, also the 2nd failure on the right pass. side that I repaired was the 4th cyl. rear intake valve hu???
I attached a few pictures of the damage for you to see, and if anyone can help me make sense of what is going on with my heads, or you may know someone who could. I really don't know what to do, replace both heads or try these again? really cain't aford it though, any help would be appreciated.
I'm having a little bit of trouble following you.

If you're trying to say that you have only 6-8 psi of oil pressure at idle you have more going on than you think. with those pressures it is surprising that your tensioners are still holding on.
Our engines provide 1/2 of base pressure to the heads, in other words if you have 10 psi of oil pressure in the block you only have 5 psi of oil pressure in the heads.

On the stock oil pump, Cold startup oil pressure is 75-80 psi, 60-65 psi cruising , Hot idle 35 psi.

If you really do have those pressures then there are a bunch of things I would check including if the correct oil pump was used. If one of your cam tensioners is leaking oil, if you have excessive crank endplay, if you have excessive wear under the cam caps.

Running an oil as thick as 15W40 can cause bearing failure due to the tight tolerences our engines run. If you cannot keep the car temps under control then cooling mods are needed not thicker oil.
 

crownaviation

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I'm having a little bit of trouble following you.

If you're trying to say that you have only 6-8 psi of oil pressure at idle you have more going on than you think. with those pressures it is surprising that your tensioners are still holding on.
Our engines provide 1/2 of base pressure to the heads, in other words if you have 10 psi of oil pressure in the block you only have 5 psi of oil pressure in the heads.

On the stock oil pump, Cold startup oil pressure is 75-80 psi, 60-65 psi cruising , Hot idle 35 psi.

If you really do have those pressures then there are a bunch of things I would check including if the correct oil pump was used. If one of your cam tensioners is leaking oil, if you have excessive crank endplay, if you have excessive wear under the cam caps.

Running an oil as thick as 15W40 can cause bearing failure due to the tight tolerences our engines run. If you cannot keep the car temps under control then cooling mods are needed not thicker oil.

YIKES!! Missed that part.. holycrap. Did he really mean that and how is he measuring it?
 

s197cajungt

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I'm having a little bit of trouble following you.

If you're trying to say that you have only 6-8 psi of oil pressure at idle you have more going on than you think. with those pressures it is surprising that your tensioners are still holding on.
Our engines provide 1/2 of base pressure to the heads, in other words if you have 10 psi of oil pressure in the block you only have 5 psi of oil pressure in the heads.

On the stock oil pump, Cold startup oil pressure is 75-80 psi, 60-65 psi cruising , Hot idle 35 psi.

If you really do have those pressures then there are a bunch of things I would check including if the correct oil pump was used. If one of your cam tensioners is leaking oil, if you have excessive crank endplay, if you have excessive wear under the cam caps.

Running an oil as thick as 15W40 can cause bearing failure due to the tight tolerences our engines run. If you cannot keep the car temps under control then cooling mods are needed not thicker oil.
Oil pressure sensor is T'd off the turbo oil supply line.

The 6-8 # was at idle "hot @ 214*" after I switched to 10w30 weight oil,
before that with 15w40 my pressure was 12-15# at idle hot @ 204* max on a hot day, not good pressure, but was told 7# per 1000rpm. was adaquant.

Heads has custom ground cams with up-graded springs and steel retainers.
 
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JeremyH

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Oil pressure sensor is t'd off turbo oil supply line? What is the turbo oil supply line t'd off of? lol

You should see 35-40 psi of oil pressure at warm idle when reading down my the ouput of the pump


I see 90psi oil pressure at cold start, 60-65 psi cruising, and 38psi at warm idle with 10w30 oil.
 

s197cajungt

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Oil pressure sensor is t'd off turbo oil supply line? What is the turbo oil supply line t'd off of? lol

You should see 35-40 psi of oil pressure at warm idle when reading down my the ouput of the pump


I see 90psi oil pressure at cold start, 60-65 psi cruising, and 38psi at warm idle with 10w30 oil.

The turbo oil supply is T'd off at the filter from what I can fill, can't see and didn't install.
Would the oil pressure flowing through that line have less pressure being it is strait through the turbo back to the pan?
I mean not pushing against a dead head.
 

thump_rrr

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You should tee it off where the factory oil pressure switch is located.
For sure you will see more oil pressure with thicker oil.
The problem is you're treating the symptom and not the cause.

If your pressure is actually that low you may not be getting enough oil to the heads to keep the lifters pumped up and the valve train lubricated.
 

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