Sactown
Sactown
That was another question I had, is the tube necessary?
No, but the tires will hold air better than without tubes, and like Marble said, it also added a little stability.
That was another question I had, is the tube necessary?
+ 1- here get that rear sway bar back on. the s197 is a 3 link not old school fox body 4 link- a really stiff sway bar in the rear actually acts like a jr. anti roll bar,Put your rear sway bar back in. The weight you are saving is not worth not having one. I did the same thing and now the sway bar is back in.
Is the car running properly? Who's your tuner? Do you have any time slips?
Even with a 1.8 60ft I've ran 12.7s-12.8s.
so these are et street radials not the bias ply right?
Im prob close to the same power (maybe 235 not sure) on 275/40/17 radials
I agree track prep must be good or it wont hook, I noticed in each of your vids the other cars were on street tires, that alone can kill your day from bringing water on the track and tearing up the groove. I had public test n tune night where I couldnt launch above 3k, the next two events at the same track I was able to launch at 5k
I also dont think I am trapping that high in 4th with 4.10's and the 26" tire.
At our power level without a steeper gear I think we would bog with the 28's
Yes they are the non bias ply ET Street radial. At that particular event there were lots of street tires. Still trying to determine if I want to do a 26 or 28" slick. Will probably go with the 28" because I may go up to a 4.30 or 4.56 when my axle is ready for rebuild.
I'm running 26" bias ply et streets with 4.10s. I'm happy with the set up, just need to play with the psi with these bias ply since its my first time with them. Still I'm able to pull low 1.7 60fts with 4k launches.
Manual or auto? May go with the 26" after all.
+ 1- here get that rear sway bar back on. the s197 is a 3 link not old school fox body 4 link- a really stiff sway bar in the rear actually acts like a jr. anti roll bar,
Hey guys, I have made approximately 15 passes in my car and due to traction issues/shifting issues (shifting issues are fixed) my PB is a 13.07. With the mods/weight of the car I should be low low in the 12s. I have experimented with tire PSI as low as 12-16 psi., I have also experimented with different shock settings suggested by some guys on here in other threads. Here are some details on the car:
- 2005 w/ approx. 350+ whp
- 5 speed
- Weighs 3130 w/o driver
Current setup:
BMR LCA
BMR Relocation brackets (LCAs are in the 2nd hole from the bottom)
BMR Adjustable UCA
BMR Adjustable PHB
BMR PHB Support
Strange 10 way F/R Shocks
Stock V6 springs
MT ET Streets 275/60/15
4.10 gears
No rear or front sway bar
The car has more mods obviously, just thought those were the only real important ones.
I have launched the car as low as 3700 or so and it just blows the tires off launching off the 2-step. I am thinking about going to a slick and I am trying to determine if I should go with a 26" or 28" tall tire. Currently I am shifting around 6800-6900 and the car is hitting the 7000 limiter right around the 1300 ft mark. in 3rd gear. Would it be wise to go to a 26" tire? Which slick would you guys suggest? Let me know if you have any more questions.
Edit: my fastest 60' is a mid 1.8 or so will have to check to verify. I have a line lock and feel as if I am doing a sufficient burnout.
WOW. Thanks for the info Linder. I am going to snag a rear sway bar, probably that one you have (never seen them mounted like that).
I am using a McLeod RST. I will have to verify the shift points, I am running 127500 cams and other bolt-ons and my limiter is set at 7000. I will have to play with it and see what it'll do!
that clutch will hit a little bit harder than stock, but you should still be able launch at much higher rpm's than what you are now.
- with the whiteline rear sway bar, call Team Z Motorsports and ask for a set of their cobra jet anti-roll bar downlinks that come with their strip series 1 kit ($50 if I recall). These are rod end pieces, and while noisy, they have zero bind. The factory whiteline downlinks are smaller in diameter and the rubber bushings caused bind. All told you should be in for about $275 for the whiteline bar and Team Z downlinks. Note you will have to drill the hole on the whiteline bar so the Team Z bolt will fit (five minute job). When you bolt up the bar, install the drivers side downlink bolt, and have someone that weighs the same as you sit in the drivers seat - then adjust the passenger downlink size so the bolt will just slip in the bar, this will give you zero preload on the bar.
- when you have your slicks mounted, use Permatex high tack glue to keep them in place (ask the tech mounting them to NOT use the slippery goop that they use on street tires).
26" Street R bias ply tires
very interested in the results with these tires. Did the M/T rep give a starting pressure to run? I'm curious if you treat them like bias ply (and run lower psi) or radial (and run a little higher psi).
good luck