clunk or knock from right rear on shifts

MasterofDisaster

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I have noticed for a couple years now that that when I shift from 1st to 2d and my foot is coming up about 1/2way on the clutch there is a clunk or thunk from the right rear. I don't hear it under light or gentle acceleration. I do hear it on moderate or hard acceleration. I also hear it a little shifting from 2d to 3d.

The clunk isn't loud. It's on the order of running over a seam in the pavement. Car runs great and accelerates great.

Car has almost 150k miles on it.

Just want to make sure this isn't going to be a problem.
 

07 Boss

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Have you ever changed the upper differential bushing that the upper control arm connects to? When worn it can exhibit clunking when changing speed or gears.

 
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Dino Dino Bambino

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I have noticed for a couple years now that that when I shift from 1st to 2d and my foot is coming up about 1/2way on the clutch there is a clunk or thunk from the right rear. I don't hear it under light or gentle acceleration. I do hear it on moderate or hard acceleration. I also hear it a little shifting from 2d to 3d.
You might want to check the right rear lower control arm bushings and the rear shock absorber bushings in addition to the upper control arm bushings and the rear differential bushing.
 

86GT351

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You might want to check the right rear lower control arm bushings and the rear shock absorber bushings in addition to the upper control arm bushings and the rear differential bushing.This.

You might want to check the right rear lower control arm bushings and the rear shock absorber bushings in addition to the upper control arm bushings and the rear differential bushing.
This. Not uncommon for control arm bushings to deteriorate over a period of time.
 

MasterofDisaster

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Thanks, Gents. I replaced the control arms about 10 years ago. The bushings are polyurethane, and they seem solid.

I have never replaced the rear sway bar bushings nor the upper control arm bushing. I can get the upper bushing for about $70 or a non-adjustable arm with bushing for $80. I don't see any reason for an adjustable arm on my daily driver.

Assuming you agree about replacing the whole control arm, I think I'm going to replace the arm and the sway bar bushings later in March. I'll post pics.
 

86GT351

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Thanks, Gents. I replaced the control arms about 10 years ago. The bushings are polyurethane, and they seem solid.

I have never replaced the rear sway bar bushings nor the upper control arm bushing. I can get the upper bushing for about $70 or a non-adjustable arm with bushing for $80. I don't see any reason for an adjustable arm on my daily driver.

Assuming you agree about replacing the whole control arm, I think I'm going to replace the arm and the sway bar bushings later in March. I'll post pics.
Few more dollars for he part but less labor intensive. Be aware that there is a bushing in the upper ear of the differential
 

MasterofDisaster

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there is a bushing in the upper ear of the differential

I want polyurethane, but I think my only option is pressing the old rubber out of the steel tube, removing the glue, and then pressing the polyurethane into the tube. Is it worth that, or should I just get the standard rubber Moog?

American Muscle doesn't carry polyurethane, but apparently AutoZone has some polyurethane. Nolathane Control Arm Bushing REV056.0016 for $35. Not bad.
 

07 Boss

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I want polyurethane, but I think my only option is pressing the old rubber out of the steel tube, removing the glue, and then pressing the polyurethane into the tube. Is it worth that, or should I just get the standard rubber Moog?

American Muscle doesn't carry polyurethane, but apparently AutoZone has some polyurethane. Nolathane Control Arm Bushing REV056.0016 for $35. Not bad.

Call BMR. This is the bushing I got from them. It's a 3-piece bushing that slides in pretty easy.




It;s the removal of the stock one that is the PIA on this install. I used a hole saw and then a brass wire brush to get my sleeve ready for the bushing.




And then I made the little tool I used to get the bushing pressed into the sleeve. The bushing only goes in one way, so if it is difficult to get it in there try the other side.

This is the wrong way but it shows the little press tooly thing.



The long bushing piece goes in from the side with the little lip or flare on it, Then it slides right in like a virgin on prom night.




Then I left the little install tool on there to hold it in place until I was ready to hook up the upper arm.

 

86GT351

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86GT - are you talking about https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Rear-Upper-Control-Arm-Bushing-Tool-P190.aspx? MMT says
  • Only for 1979-04 Mustang with solid-axle
  • Not for 2005-2014
I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just asking if it's one of those "off-label" uses that actually works I guess they don't have one specific for the S197. The one you linked is for Fox Bodies, SN chassis and new edge chassis. You could also call them and ask. Maybe they have something not shown on the web site!
 

GlassTop09

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Ford has a differential bushing for the GT500 that is supposed to be a little bit stiffer and will interchange with the GT bushing.
This would be my suggestion.
Just helping out here............below is the very 13-14 OEM Ford GT500 8.8" 3-Link rear axle UCA diff bushing I'm assuming is being referred to for consideration............it is made using a MUCH stiffer durometer rubber compound vs a std 05-10 OEM GT\07-09 GT500 UCA diff bushing but still designed to allow full OEM rear 3-Link axle articulation (main reason for posting...........there are 3 different versions\part #'s of this Ford OEM 8.8" 3-Link axle UCA diff bushing.....1 for 05-10 GT\07-09 GT500--std durometer, 1 for 11-14 GT\10-12 GT500--intermediate durometer & this 1 shown below for 13-14 GT500--stiffest\max durometer).

I'm running this very rear UCA diff bushing on my '09 GT's rear 8.8" 3-Link axle...............it is the real deal.

Hope this helps.

13-14 Ford GT500 8.8 Diff UCA Bushing (1).JPG

13-14 Ford GT500 8.8 Diff UCA Bushing (2).JPG

13-14 Ford GT500 8.8 Diff UCA Bushing (3).JPG
 

Miker

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I have my original at 155K. I've replaced pretty much everything else front and rear. Removing the stock one from the top of the diff why it's in the car I have heard is a real PITA.
 

Midlife Crises

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Just helping out here............below is the very 13-14 OEM Ford GT500 8.8" 3-Link rear axle UCA diff bushing I'm assuming is being referred to for consideration............it is made using a MUCH stiffer durometer rubber compound vs a std 05-10 OEM GT\07-09 GT500 UCA diff bushing but still designed to allow full OEM rear 3-Link axle articulation (main reason for posting...........there are 3 different versions\part #'s of this Ford OEM 8.8" 3-Link axle UCA diff bushing.....1 for 05-10 GT\07-09 GT500--std durometer, 1 for 11-14 GT\10-12 GT500--intermediate durometer & this 1 shown below for 13-14 GT500--stiffest\max durometer).

I'm running this very rear UCA diff bushing on my '09 GT's rear 8.8" 3-Link axle...............it is the real deal.

Hope this helps.

View attachment 104138

View attachment 104139

View attachment 104140
This is the one I would use if doing this job today. I might also consider using the upper control arm and mount from the 11-12 GT to take advantage of the longer length arm.
 

JC SSP

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You can alway get an adjustable upper mount & bracket too…

I personally would like the GT500 Mount over poly and hemispherical. I might do this in the near future.
 

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