clutch

pieperz06

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well im starting to get alot of clutch slip and my car has 70k miles on it and i have alot of events to do this summer and i cant risk having my clutch go out on me 5 hrs away from home so im thinking i should change it before it gets worse/ breaks.

what do you think would be the best course of action

i was thinking i could get a stock clutch and call it a day

but then i was trying to decide if i should take advantage of this and get a lightweight flywheel and a more stiff clutch

i had never looked in to eather of thies things until now and time is not on my side. i know there are some things in the tech section about all this but since there is more than going in a straight line im kinda at a loss as to what to do.

any ideas/ suggestions
 

Kaldar142

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for what its worth i have a spec 3+ with a exedy lightweight flywheel. I love the combo but it does get a bit annoying to drive as you have to rev the car up and keep the RPMs up to get moving or the car will stutter and jerk around.

Not a big deal, just takes getting used too. A bit stiffer than the OEM clutch as well
 

AJ

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exedy mach 400
 

pieperz06

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But see I'm just alittle worried because I'm still at a stock hp lvl and I don't know how it would react to the 3+ and then I'm also worried about looseing to much tq with getting the light flywheel
 

SoundGuyDave

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I'm also barely above stock HP levels, around 310 or so to the wheels, and as mentioned, it chatters a bit when pulling away off a dead stop, but it feels awfully good at the higher RPMs.

The aluminum flywheel will NOT cost you torque. A higher mass flywheel only makes pulling away from the line a touch easier. The aluminum piece isn't a night/day experience, but the engine does spool up quicker, and with the proper tune mods, it will drop down in RPM a lot quicker, which is handy for what we do. If driveline mass created torque, then we'd be looking for cast-iron driveshafts as well.
 

foolio2k4

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Im kind of in the same boat as you.

I know im gonna stick with bolt ons so i dont want a stage 3+ or higher.

I know im going with an exedy flywheel with OEM clutch or the exedy clutch that AJ suggested
 

irishpwr46

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definitely exedy. i have the mach 400 with the stock flywheel and its a great combo with a very close to stock feel
 

2006torquefreak

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Mcleod RST and Fidanza billet flywheel. Good application for you to grow with and I think their is a group but on here some where for the Mcleod. Good luck
 

Chris B.

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Mcleod RST and Fidanza billet flywheel. Good application for you to grow with and I think their is a group but on here some where for the Mcleod. Good luck

I was just going to ask about the Mcleod RST. I figure I'll eventually new a new clutch and I might as well buy one when I find a good deal or group buy on one. I really don't plan to have more than 350 HP at the wheels, so I was wondering if its overkill.
 

pieperz06

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I'm also barely above stock HP levels, around 310 or so to the wheels, and as mentioned, it chatters a bit when pulling away off a dead stop, but it feels awfully good at the higher RPMs.

The aluminum flywheel will NOT cost you torque. A higher mass flywheel only makes pulling away from the line a touch easier. The aluminum piece isn't a night/day experience, but the engine does spool up quicker, and with the proper tune mods, it will drop down in RPM a lot quicker, which is handy for what we do. If driveline mass created torque, then we'd be looking for cast-iron driveshafts as well.

hummm i was damn sure i read some where it did


could you DD with that clutch??

and is there any break in / miles i should drive before i do an hpde
 
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SoundGuyDave

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could you DD with that clutch??

and is there any break in / miles i should drive before i do an hpde

As usual, the answer is "it depends." If your morning commute is miles and miles of stop-and-go, then it would be a pain in the ass. Below about 1500 or 1800, the car just surges and bucks with the heavy clutch (very little slip) and no reserve mass in the flywheel. Above that, though, it's fine.

Spec wants a 500 mile break-in, but a LOT of people that race can't drive their cars on the street, and break in their clutches by pulling the car onto the trailer to head to the event, so....

That said, I did the recommended break-in, and have no problems.
 

pieperz06

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SoundGuyDave said:
As usual, the answer is "it depends." If your morning commute is miles and miles of stop-and-go, then it would be a pain in the ass. Below about 1500 or 1800, the car just surges and bucks with the heavy clutch (very little slip) and no reserve mass in the flywheel. Above that, though, it's fine.

Spec wants a 500 mile break-in, but a LOT of people that race can't drive their cars on the street, and break in their clutches by pulling the car onto the trailer to head to the event, so....

That said, I did the recommended break-in, and have no problems.

Lol I drive less than 5 miles a day

my biggest problem is the cost
 
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AJ

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The McLeod is definitely a great unit, and it can grow with you if you ever decide to up the ante on your power.
 

Sam Strano

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I deal with a number of clutch brands. I can tell you know I've sold and used Specs. I try to avoid it at all costs.

I carry Exedy, and ACT, Centerforce and Fidanza too.

I would highly recommend an aluminum or CM lightweight flywheel (depending on brand) to anyone on this section of this forum. Dave is right, it does not cost you torque. And frankly on a V-8 having a lighter flywheel is no trouble at all. There is plenty of rotating mass slinging around. Knock 15 pounds of a Honda flywheel and you have all kinds of issues having to slip the clutch to keep from killing the car..... but it has way, way less mass and is easier to kill when you drop the percentage so much.
 

pieperz06

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im thinking now a may just get a stock clutch because i dont want to spend the money on a good clutch because im not sure where im going to go with the car next. but i do want to change the flywheel while i am in there.

any one know the weight differences in the different alu flywheels i didint see it in the howmuch does it weight thread.

also im wondering if with the alu fly it is similar to getting an alu DS but not as dramatic of a change because it is not as much weight.
 

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