Damn, it's all the way at the top? I'm probably not telling you anything you don't know, but just incase....the difference in the effects of rear RC vs swaybar are similar in dialing in and out of oversteer, but the actualy characteristics of how it feels and works is a little different from my understanding. I think effects happen much, much quicker with RC adjustments vs swaybar adjustments. RC height changes are gonna have weight transfer changes basically immediately and the car "should" do things a little quicker in the "set" and also if it was gonna oversteer or not. Swaybar change is gonna be based on however long the bar takes to ramp up on the spring rate/wheel rate via rear suspension travel. I'm pretty sure Norm will elaborate if I talk non-sense. I have heard people on engineer forums (eng-tips or similar?) refer to the rear roll center adjustment as thinking of the RC height as a "fast swaybar". I have also heard that a properly setup race car shouldn't need a rear swaybar (or maybe no sway at all?). You and I both know there is about a bazillion ways to get to the end result in regards to suspension. Just food for thought.
I would tell you to enjoy tinkering with your new toys, but you have made that watts sound like a major PITA. Quick question: how many bolt holes does it have for RC adj and which ones are actually accessible without an act from congress?
Indeed, there is about a dozen ways to do what I want the car to do and I actually think that if your "fast" and "slow" swaybar theory is correct that leaving the RC higher and either increasing the front or decreasing the rear or a combo of both is the better move. The issue here isn't necessarily a steady state oversteer, it's actually pretty close to neutral (read: I'm not driving hard enough
) with constant throttle. However, trying to get on the throttle earlier, like a Torque Arm is supposed to allow, almost always results in the car stepping out. A few theories:
1.) I'm using the friction circle better, maybe even because torque arms are "easier to drive hard" and there just is no rear grip to do that with.
2.) Too much rear spring rate
3.) Too little front spring rate
4.) Driver is not being smooth.
I'm willing to bet it's a combo of all of these so I'd like to add a touch of rear grip, somehow to be more aggressive with the throttle. I'd like the car to step out at WOT and maybe 85%-90% throttle but when I'm ramping from being off throttle to on the throttle there shouldn't be an instant stepping out of the rear of the car.
The test'n'tune should provide the ability to tweak as necessary all while getting times!
As for the Watts link, basically to pull the frame is four bolts: The two PHB brace bolts on the driver side, the PHB brace bolt on the passenger side and the PHB bolt on the passenger side frame. Only once those are removed can the watts link be lowered enough to get a wrench on the center pivot bolt. Remember, that center pivot bolt is torqued to 100 lb*ft and it isn't easy to get off the car while you are on your back changing it. Once that is done you still have to torque everything back down while under the car.
Now that I've swapped from the stamped steel diff cover to the aluminum finned one, it basically requires frame removal to lower the RC height since the diff cover is A LOT closer to the watts link.
