DD/Auto-X suspension options?

[o0Dan0o]

I'm looking to replace my shocks/struts springs and swaybars with aftermarket ones, and was wondering what you think the best options are.

To be specific, I'm looking for a relatively inexpensive setup that will stiffen up the car. Basically, just something to make the car a good double duty DD/auto-x car. I'm not really looking for adjustable units, mostly to avoid the added expense and I don't really think I need adjustable shocks/struts for my goals. If in the future I make it more of a open track/auto-x car than I'd probably move towards the griggs setup.

I'm considering the roush suspension setup, or piecing something similar together, I was wondering if anyone had any specific suggestions as to which work well together, so on. I do like the idea of linear rate springs, as ride quality isn't that important to me (I have rod-ended LCAs from MM). Thanks guys.
Dan

 

[Random Asshole]

I have the eibach pro system plus. (gonna install it this weekend) It comes with springs, struts, and a front sway bar. Everyone says good things about it and it only cost me 900 bucks from tire rack. I bought it a while ago so prices may be little different now.

 

[Vapour Trails]

Linear springs don't necessarily make your ride harsher, but they will be dampened better. After reading some dicussion and my own experiences with other cars, I thought linears would be best for me, and I'm happy with them.

I would spend the extra little bit of money and get adjustables, you won't regret it. You don't need to change the sway bars, the stock bars are plently for your goals.

I generally don't like the suspension kits out there. That's all part of the suspension trap, and the mentality of more is better. Just change what suits your wants/needs. I likely will never change my sways, and I'm a regular autoxer.

At my local auto x, I've seen a guy in a stock S197, save for tokico adjustables, destroy the best from germany and japan.

 

[DusterRT]

I've read about some guys thinking about putting V-6 sway bars in place of the stock GT bars. Just because you reduce body roll doesn't necessarily mean handling is better..you can also control/adjust how much body roll you get with rebound dampening (therefore you could justify the extra cost of adjustable shocks by opting out of sway bars).

I'd also say ride quality has way more to do with shock/strut valving than with the springs themselves..I've yet to track the car since installation but I'm extremely happy with the Koni yellows in my coilover setup. My front spring rate (340#) is pretty high compared to most/all of the OE-replacement drop springs and it's 100% fine as a DD.

 

[Random Asshole]

Well I got my eibach prokit in. I was surprised it came with both front and rear sway bars. Even came with beefy lookin' aluminum links for the rear (but not the front??) What seems pretty cool is the fact that the front bar has three holes you can plug your lower link into for different driving intentions. One for comfort, one for more aggressive street use, and a "track only" setting. I put it in the middle for agressive street use. I immediately installed my kumho xs tires at the alignment shop, so I only drove it for 2 minutes (slowly) on the stock meats. But with all this together, it feels tighter (and stickier) than a virgin on prom night. I also went with the MaxMotorsports CC plates and a adj. panhard bar from edelbrock <--Sounds funny, but its beefy and fairly inexpensive.

 

[Random Asshole]

I've read about some guys thinking about putting V-6 sway bars in place of the stock GT bars. Just because you reduce body roll doesn't necessarily mean handling is better..you can also control/adjust how much body roll you get with rebound dampening (therefore you could justify the extra cost of adjustable shocks by opting out of sway bars).

I'd also say ride quality has way more to do with shock/strut valving than with the springs themselves..I've yet to track the car since installation but I'm extremely happy with the Koni yellows in my coilover setup. My front spring rate (340#) is pretty high compared to most/all of the OE-replacement drop springs and it's 100% fine as a DD.

I've been advised to use the v6 bar as well, but it seems funny to me. If you use what should be a softer bar (the v6 i mean), then the outside link wouldn't pull the inside wheel down as much as say a stiffer bar would, right?

 

[DusterRT]

I've been advised to use the v6 bar as well, but it seems funny to me. If you use what should be a softer bar (the v6 i mean), then the outside link wouldn't pull the inside wheel down as much as say a stiffer bar would, right?

One hypothesis is the softer bar won't try to compress the inside suspension up as much..another is that it has the same effect as adding a stiffer rear bar (probably cheaper as well), which would help dial out some understeer..

 

[Sam Strano]

One hypothesis is the softer bar won't try to compress the inside suspension up as much..another is that it has the same effect as adding a stiffer rear bar (probably cheaper as well), which would help dial out some understeer..

I know this thread is old, but I just found it. And being that I was thinking about this as a possibility (only in one specific instance) I thought I should enlighten you as to why.

GTs and Bullitts are understeer prone, and carry an inside front wheel when autocrossed in stock configuration. With SCCA Stock category rules as they are, no spring or rear bar changes are allowed. We can get pretty good camber. The thinking was that in cars that were just terminally tight that swapping to a 31.7mm bar from a V-6, AND making is adjustable, AND running a stiffer setting might help balance the car a bit better when having to run a standard 20mm rear bar. That is they only case/way it makes sense to run a V-6 front bar, and it was considered simply to meet some specific autox rules. I never did it because I got my GT balanced out decently with the stock front bar and tuning the shock and tire pressure settings.