Driver's seat rail modifications for tall people

[Stangabe]

Hi there, I know this topic has been discussed previously on some of the various forums but I haven't quite been able to find the exact information I need.

I am 6'11'' and in order to fit in the s197 I need to be able to position the seat as far back and as low down as possible (further than stock). Are any of you aware of any existing brackets that would achieve such a purpose, or do you know of anyone who has made modifications to their seat rails that would result in this extra space?

I called this Mustang shop in the LA area to ask if they could do it, but they said it would involve 'a lot of fabrication and engineering with the airbag sensors etc.' They estimated $1-2k for the job. Needless to say, I am a bit skeptical as to the airbag sensor story and price tag.

I'd really like to get one so any suggestions would be highly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[raredesign]

The airbag sensors are in the seat, so cut and welding two rails together shouldn’t change anything other than extending the harness, and then weld two new studs in the rear to bolt it to, and grind the others off. The issue will be the seatbelt harness position as you’ll be further back from the window depending on how much leg room you want to gain.


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[tjm73]

I read the title and I was like "You'd have to be 7 feet tall for this to be an issue!" Then I opened the thread. Holy shit! You ARE 7 feet tall!!!

This is a 100% custom mod but doable.

 

[rocky61201]

It's typical for any shop to high ball a quote for any type of fabrication. I usually solve problems like this with a trip to Lowes and spend $20 bucks on some aluminum or steel stock or angle iron along with some nuts and bolts.

Even better is that now you can get any size of aluminum stock you want now from Amazon. Awhile back I got the exact size I needed to fab up some motor mounts to stuff a bigger motor in my kids minibike.

 

[Stangabe]

The airbag sensors are in the seat, so cut and welding two rails together shouldn’t change anything other than extending the harness, and then weld two new studs in the rear to bolt it to, and grind the others off. The issue will be the seatbelt harness position as you’ll be further back from the window depending on how much leg room you want to gain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yeah I figured the airbag sensor story was BS. Thanks a lot for the feedback! Welding two rails together sounds doable. I'd have to see if I can pick up another set of rails somehow, I guess it only comes with the full seat track assembly.

I also came across these seat track extenders which supposedly gives you 3 inches of extra legroom, but the 3/4 inch reduction in headroom might kill it for me.... So it'll most likely have to be the custom job
https://www.cjponyparts.com/seat-track-extender-kit-mustang-2005-2014/p/STE2/

I read the title and I was like "You'd have to be 7 feet tall for this to be an issue!" Then I opened the thread. Holy shit! You ARE 7 feet tall!!!

This is a 100% custom mod but doable.

Haha yes, it's always a struggle fitting into anything cool . But if you put in the extra effort a lot is possible. Would you believe I don't fit in stock new Ram 2500, but do fit in a 2010 Mini?? It's the truth

It's typical for any shop to high ball a quote for any type of fabrication. I usually solve problems like this with a trip to Lowes and spend $20 bucks on some aluminum or steel stock or angle iron along with some nuts and bolts.

Even better is that now you can get any size of aluminum stock you want now from Amazon. Awhile back I got the exact size I needed to fab up some motor mounts to stuff a bigger motor in my kids minibike.

Okay thanks for the feedback. I figured the guy was full of it. Sadly I don't quite have the metalworking tools or knowhow to pull this type of job off myself, so I guess I'll just have to get informed and shop around a bit.

 

[raredesign]

Yeah I figured the airbag sensor story was BS. Thanks a lot for the feedback! Welding two rails together sounds doable. I'd have to see if I can pick up another set of rails somehow, I guess it only comes with the full seat track assembly.

I also came across these seat track extenders which supposedly gives you 3 inches of extra legroom, but the 3/4 inch reduction in headroom might kill it for me.... So it'll most likely have to be the custom job
https://www.cjponyparts.com/seat-track-extender-kit-mustang-2005-2014/p/STE2/

Initially the seat track looks complex, but what I was thinking is the bottom half that the track slides in.
https://www.amazon.com/Ford-AR3Z-6361710-A-TRACK-ASY-SEAT/dp/B0031BF77G
The retail price is absurd, but you could get some base seats at a junk yard and use those rails. I'm not sure how the assembly comes apart to remove the lower rails that the track slides in, but that is where I would cut and weld. That way, the seat would be able to slide to forward and back full-range so both you and someone else could drive if need be. The rail would then fully extend into the length of the rear seat feet area, but that's what, another 8-10"?

 

[rocky61201]

Because you're that tall and probably carrying the extra weight to go with it I'm guessing you will put some extra stress on the front seat track mounting bolts because you're moving your body mass farther back and possibly behind or right on top of the rear seat track mounting bolts. You might even bend your modified tracks over time.

Remember you still want to the car to be safe in a crash.

If true I would consider welding some angle iron to the floor boards farther back to mimic the stock mounting location. I'm guessing my local muffler shop would probably charge less than $100 bucks if I showed up with the seat already removed and the carpet out of the way. The muffler shop would have plenty of angle iron they can chop up to use.

I you have a drag race/chassis shop in your area I would pay them a visit. They do this stuff all the time. There used to be some hard core drag racers on this forum with extensively modified chassis. To bad they're not still around. They could give you some better advice than me.

 

[kerrynzl]

Hi there, I know this topic has been discussed previously on some of the various forums but I haven't quite been able to find the exact information I need.

I am 6'11'' and in order to fit in the s197 I need to be able to position the seat as far back and as low down as possible (further than stock). Are any of you aware of any existing brackets that would achieve such a purpose, or do you know of anyone who has made modifications to their seat rails that would result in this extra space?

I called this Mustang shop in the LA area to ask if they could do it, but they said it would involve 'a lot of fabrication and engineering with the airbag sensors etc.' They estimated $1-2k for the job. Needless to say, I am a bit skeptical as to the airbag sensor story and price tag.

I'd really like to get one so any suggestions would be highly appreciated.

Thanks

I have an FR500C and Multimatic did exactly what you are wanting.
But they Cut and Recessed [and Boxed] the original bracing across the floor. Then welded 2 x brackets lengthways [made from 1-1/2" x 1/2" rectangle tubing]
I'm 6'2" and can move the seat back until I need to tip-toe the pedals

Because the seat gets lower as you go further back, and you want to preserve some resale value I would not recommend the cut and weld method.
Get 2 strips of 1-1/2" x 3/8" solid strap to make adaptors.
Heat and bend the front into a "Z" shape and bolt them in place with countersunk cap screws. [at the rear, I would also consider "Z"ing the end that overhangs so that it load bears weight on the floor]
Then drill and tap for the new seat mounting positions

If this is out of your depth, any race car fabricator could do this. [you could save $$$ by pulling the carpets yourself]

attached is how Multimatic did my racecar

 

[Stangabe]

Initially the seat track looks complex, but what I was thinking is the bottom half that the track slides in.
https://www.amazon.com/Ford-AR3Z-6361710-A-TRACK-ASY-SEAT/dp/B0031BF77G
The retail price is absurd, but you could get some base seats at a junk yard and use those rails. I'm not sure how the assembly comes apart to remove the lower rails that the track slides in, but that is where I would cut and weld. That way, the seat would be able to slide to forward and back full-range so both you and someone else could drive if need be. The rail would then fully extend into the length of the rear seat feet area, but that's what, another 8-10"?

Right, I'm sure there's a bunch of written off former boyracer Stangs sitting in junkyards waiting to donate their seat rails to me

Because you're that tall and probably carrying the extra weight to go with it I'm guessing you will put some extra stress on the front seat track mounting bolts because you're moving your body mass farther back and possibly behind or right on top of the rear seat track mounting bolts. You might even bend your modified tracks over time.

Remember you still want to the car to be safe in a crash.

If true I would consider welding some angle iron to the floor boards farther back to mimic the stock mounting location. I'm guessing my local muffler shop would probably charge less than $100 bucks if I showed up with the seat already removed and the carpet out of the way. The muffler shop would have plenty of angle iron they can chop up to use.

I you have a drag race/chassis shop in your area I would pay them a visit. They do this stuff all the time. There used to be some hard core drag racers on this forum with extensively modified chassis. To bad they're not still around. They could give you some better advice than me.

Ah yes, I guess reinforcements may be needed with the extra holes in the floorboard despite my modest for my height 260 lbs . That's a great suggestion regarding the drag racing shops! I'm not too far from Pomona Raceway so there must be a bunch of them around over there. Thanks for the input.

 

[Stangabe]

Because the seat gets lower as you go further back, and you want to preserve some resale value I would not recommend the cut and weld method.
Get 2 strips of 1-1/2" x 3/8" solid strap to make adaptors.
Heat and bend the front into a "Z" shape and bolt them in place with countersunk cap screws. [at the rear, I would also consider "Z"ing the end that overhangs so that it load bears weight on the floor]
Then drill and tap for the new seat mounting positions

Wow thanks, Kerrynzl for the detailed input! Looks like quite a bit of work went into how they customized your floorboards.

I have found these seat track extenders that go over the original floor bracing on CJPonyParts in the meantime as well: https://www.cjponyparts.com/seat-track-extender-kit-mustang-2005-2014/p/STE2/
I would have to be sitting behind the bracing anyway. However, these actually raise the seats by 3/4 inches according to the description (how??) which would put my head through the roof! So it would require some modification also. But yes, I'm not equipped to perform that myself, so I guess might as well have the whole thing fabricated by a raceshop from the ground up. I do worry about the resale value though as you pointed out, so modifying the CJ Part is perhaps worth looking at.

 

[Shrek427R]

I'm 6'4' and scheduled my car for the CJ Pony Seat Track Extender Kit for next week. It would be nice to have a little extra leg room but my upholstery shop says they can try to refabricate the rails to avoid the 3/4 inch height increase. I just want to be able to drive on track without my helmet stuck to the roof liner.
This is my first attempt before having to spend big bucks to modify the car with a dedicated track seat.
Will let you know how it goes.

 

[kerrynzl]

The reason they raise the seat 19mm [3/4"] is because the front 90deg bracket on the existing seat runners bolts on top of the adaptor/extenders.
See below [circled]
If they were carefully cut off [through the welds with a cut-off wheel] new 90deg extenders could be welded out the front.


You will then probably need to cut off the rear "stud" in the floor x-member, and drill and fabricate new load bearing mounts at the rear.
They will need to control lateral loads , so a simple "spacer block" welded under the existing bolt holes will be good enough.

For the mounting holes in the floor, use plates each side of the bolt hole [doubler plates]. The plates need to be 40cm of total area [2.5" x 2.5"] and have a 10mm [3/8"] radius rounded corners, so they don't cut through the floor in an accident.

The plates need to be secured together with obviously the central bolt , but also 2 Monel Rivets [steel pop rivets]
Also if you want to strengthen these mounting points exponentially , Glue them each side of the floor before you rivet them.

The glue to use is "Bostik ISR 70-03" [I have used this to glue diamond plate decks onto trailers, it is incredibly strong and remains pliable]

On a side note.
My FR500C had seat belt eye bolts literally drilled into the floor [using only spring washers]
Just the G forces from the driver were pulling them through the floor.

Because our sanctioning body is the FIA [instead of the SCCA] I had to add plates underneath which were glued in.[to pass inspection]

 

[tabstang]

I'm 6'7", so I feel your pain - although my 07 cvt has just enough room for me. But I've moved seats back in other cars with this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...hannel-Bar-with-1-8-in-Thick-801217/204225748
The "C" shape makes it pretty strong, and it's really easy - drill holes in the original position, then drill a matching hole for each at the distance you want to move it. Use the OE bolts to bolt the Channel to the floor (if long enough), and a set of grade 8 bolts / nuts through the C channel to the OE bracket.

The front 90 degree extenders could be bolted onto the C-channel if you don't have a welder handy. Bonus - the slope should add quite a bit of headroom as you move the seat back.
(Thanks for the photos kerrynzl - very helpful!)

I am planning to use a set of S197 seats in my 67 Fastback using this method.

 

[Flusher]

Maybe I got really stubby arms for 6'2". The relationship between the pedals, steering wheel, and shifter feel a bit odd to me, once i get the seat adjusted to my legs. Do you all have this same issue?

 

[Stangabe]

I'm 6'4' and scheduled my car for the CJ Pony Seat Track Extender Kit for next week. It would be nice to have a little extra leg room but my upholstery shop says they can try to refabricate the rails to avoid the 3/4 inch height increase. I just want to be able to drive on track without my helmet stuck to the roof liner.
This is my first attempt before having to spend big bucks to modify the car with a dedicated track seat.
Will let you know how it goes.

Alright man, sounds good. So how did it go? Did they rework the rails for you?

 

[Stangabe]

The reason they raise the seat 19mm [3/4"] is because the front 90deg bracket on the existing seat runners bolts on top of the adaptor/extenders.
See below [circled]
If they were carefully cut off [through the welds with a cut-off wheel] new 90deg extenders could be welded out the front.

View attachment 74574
You will then probably need to cut off the rear "stud" in the floor x-member, and drill and fabricate new load bearing mounts at the rear.
They will need to control lateral loads , so a simple "spacer block" welded under the existing bolt holes will be good enough.

For the mounting holes in the floor, use plates each side of the bolt hole [doubler plates]. The plates need to be 40cm of total area [2.5" x 2.5"] and have a 10mm [3/8"] radius rounded corners, so they don't cut through the floor in an accident.

The plates need to be secured together with obviously the central bolt , but also 2 Monel Rivets [steel pop rivets]
Also if you want to strengthen these mounting points exponentially , Glue them each side of the floor before you rivet them.

The glue to use is "Bostik ISR 70-03" [I have used this to glue diamond plate decks onto trailers, it is incredibly strong and remains pliable]

On a side note.
My FR500C had seat belt eye bolts literally drilled into the floor [using only spring washers]
Just the G forces from the driver were pulling them through the floor.

Because our sanctioning body is the FIA [instead of the SCCA] I had to add plates underneath which were glued in.[to pass inspection]

My bad for the late response! Again, thanks a lot for the detailed feedback. I'm getting real close to pulling the trigger on an '05 GT Convertible Manual. It's funny how the manual convertibles seem like rare unicorns, you hardly ever see them coming up for sale!

 

[Shrek427R]

I just completed my seat track extender kit and really like the extra inches of leg room for daily driving.
However, it raised my head to the roof liner about an inch and this makes my helmet stick when driving on road course tracks. Since I only drive about four times a year I'll try to start Yoga or something to gain more flexibility.

 

[Shrek427R]

I'm 6'4' and scheduled my car for the CJ Pony Seat Track Extender Kit for next week. It would be nice to have a little extra leg room but my upholstery shop says they can try to refabricate the rails to avoid the 3/4 inch height increase. I just want to be able to drive on track without my helmet stuck to the roof liner.
This is my first attempt before having to spend big bucks to modify the car with a dedicated track seat.
Will let you know how it goes.

Well after installation and my first track day afterwards, my helmet sticks to the roof liner in turns.
The installer has a fabricator at his shop, but he died of Covid. Now I'm looking for another shop to see if they can give me back that 3/4" of height. I usually sit upright for track days.
Any suggestions?