Eibach Multi Pro R2

modernbeat

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Yes, we do track them. And we have had no issues with them even with a heavy daily driver on Hoosiers with areo hitting the curbing. Here's Terry purposely getting two wheels off and the other two on the strip at Global Time Attack this year.

Our only issue is that the lug holes are a little tight, but 17mm lug nuts (across the flats) take care of that.

JPGcropbetter_DSC1457%20copy-M.jpg


We've worked out some good fitments for them with wide tires, and of course the same fitment we developed for the D-Force are available in the Forgestars. Some colors are stocked, but any of their colors can be custom ordered if you are willing to wait a couple weeks.
 
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LS1EATINPONY

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DSC_9939-L.jpg


Slightly offtopic, You guys Track on Forgestars? are they up to that task.. I am trying to find new wheels but I am a bit paranoid about breaking a rim.. At $300 bucks each these sure are cheap compared to $800-$1000 for any other rim I look at

Check out enkei. They had good wheels too for the same price. Probably lighter too. Might e wrong though. I run rpf1's. 18x9.5 +45mm offset.
 

steve13gt

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I haven't seen any enkeis that I am too crazy about. I am still looking around though
 

LS1EATINPONY

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I think that using the label “short time” could be taken to mean something more negative than is the reality of the situation. That’s a bit of a grey area statement. I know of a car with 35K daily driver and track miles on its R2’s and the only thing that ever needed attention was replacing a seal (which is not uncommon for any damper). That being said I do agree when it comes to longevity and a potential for decreased performance due to inconsistent parts/assembly the R2’s probably don’t stack up to AST’s.

.

I'm not sure of you were referring to me or not but I have almost 40k on my coilovers (R2's) and I've replaced the seals twice. Only problem I've had with them outside of wheel clearance issues
 

Sam Strano

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Holy crap has this gotten crazy.

I'm going to address a few things quickly, because I've not got time to get into long diatribes and such, I've got a business to run, which leads me to this.....

I am a sponsor here. I pay for that privilege, I try to not slam people over the head with the fact I am. I try and be upfront and honest, and often will ask that folks call me if they have detailed questions because they are best dealt with in person vs. a bunch of PM's or other non-personal discussion. I hope folks respect the fact I support their site, and am not up in their faces. I know that I often let things slide by that I could be more aggressive about, but it's not my personality, and I'm not a marketing genius... I'm a car guy who's proven himself pretty well (I think) and like anyone has his opinions, and that's what I count on folks getting when we talk about stuff. I don't feel the need to plaster Stranoparts.com all over the place in general and let the results speak for themselves. However, it is true that the squeaky wheel gets the grease, and I know that is true. But for the most part myself and the other supporting vendors here have been pretty respectful in that way. When one starts going nuts, others will follow. I might be forced to as well, I just hope it doesn't happy.

I can't not ever mention my company, I am in business. But I do not believe anyone needs to be so overt unless they have something to prove. We can agree to disagree and all, I've got customers who often do things differently than I do. I'm still ok with serving them as best I can. But if they want my advice, I will be honest with them (and that isn't always the smartest move on my end I've found... but I'm too stupid to play the game I guess).

As for GC and Griggs and some others that use "Koni's".. those are NOT production Mustang dampers. They work kind of hard to disguise what they are, which are generic race inserts that are fit to a housing to fit the Mustang, making them "custom designed" and so on... but the valving is not. In fact I hit such a nerve pointing this out a few years ago someone called Koni to complain. When I told Koni what I said and typed (and showed Koni) vs. what the company in question claimed I said... Koni said "fine" and that was that... because I was right. See if I was doing that, I'd say up front I was using XXXX-XXXX race insert in a housing developed to fit the car. I would not try and slide it by like is being done.

I guess I could go crying to the moderators about how new folks are posting up a million photos and 42 name-drops and all, but it's really not my style to do so. Things like that generally annoy me in life, I assume that others don't always like the in your face thing either. I'm kind of hanging my hat on being true to myself, and acting the way I'd want someone I deal with to act. There will always be those that respond to bright lights and flash, I can't really do much about that regardless of what I complain about. Look no further than the fact I don't run around in a fully stickered up car all the time. In fact I only sticker my Corvette as I can't just add magnetics when I want. And even then if you look at Mustangs, I usually just had a small stranoparts.com sticker on them. I now run bigger ones because it was pointed out to me that some customers of mine were and it was stupid I was so casual about advertising my business. But I don't love it...

As for what works and what doesn't, etc. Just today I was talking to the head honcho at one of my vendors (and a big company, famous, well respected in their field) and he said thank you to me in reference to something I said in another thread on another board. Lots of theory, lots of "if/then" thinking and such. I said, basically, try it... work from there (which is a functional baseline). I can't believe I'm in such a minority, but it's clear that not many folks do that anymore, and that's kind of scary to me.
 

sheizasosay

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As for GC and Griggs and some others that use "Koni's".. those are NOT production Mustang dampers. They work kind of hard to disguise what they are, which are generic race inserts that are fit to a housing to fit the Mustang, making them "custom designed" and so on... but the valving is not.
.

What does that mean? Generic race inserts? And when you said "the valving is not"? The valving is not what? Not "custom designed"....the valving is no different than a factory sport?







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

steve13gt

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Just another question,

From what I have gathered the stock springs rates are designed to make the car understeer to the point of poor handling.

but stock is stiffer in rear, softer in front, as verified by Vorshlag, and Eibach.

But everyone is going stiffer front, softer rear. Wouldn't that cause even more understeer? Or am I looking at this backwards
 

DILYSI Dave

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Just another question,

From what I have gathered the stock springs rates are designed to make the car understeer to the point of poor handling.

but stock is stiffer in rear, softer in front, as verified by Vorshlag, and Eibach.

But everyone is going stiffer front, softer rear. Wouldn't that cause even more understeer? Or am I looking at this backwards

From a roll stiffness perspective, you're right - stiffer front would be more inclined to overwork the fronts resulting in push. Unfortunately, the front is SO undersprung that the roll stiffness part doesn't come into play because before it can the car has flopped over on it's sidewalls because of the lack of wheel rate. In this case, additional front spring increases front grip by keeping the contact patch in a happier place.
 

Whiskey11

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Just another question,

From what I have gathered the stock springs rates are designed to make the car understeer to the point of poor handling.

but stock is stiffer in rear, softer in front, as verified by Vorshlag, and Eibach.

But everyone is going stiffer front, softer rear. Wouldn't that cause even more understeer? Or am I looking at this backwards

It's not that easy to just blindly follow the "stiffer in front is understeer, stiffer in rear is oversteer" mentality because it is quite possible to have a stiffer front spring rate and have less understeer. That is because the front suspension is actually utilizing the contact patch more effectively. That holds true in a strut based suspension more than a Short-Long Arm suspension because of the way strut suspensions gain and lose camber in body roll. Stiffer springs reduce the amount of body roll and minimize negative camber loss and make better use of the front tires. Hence why it is possible to increase the front roll resistance and actually decrease understeer.

That sounds awfully Chapman's law but it doesn't have to get to the extreme point of preventing the suspension from moving, just preventing it from moving enough to lose too much camber. The rear spring rates also increase a pretty substantial amount too. The Steeda Sports on stock 2009 GT swaybars felt pretty neutral to me with a Watts Link in the middle pivot hole and they are 200 front, 175 rear. Adding the swaybars helped more although I spent the entire year working around a stupidly slammed rear roll center and never got the car where I wanted it.
 

Norm Peterson

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Just another question,

From what I have gathered the stock springs rates are designed to make the car understeer to the point of poor handling.
Understeer, yes. But I wouldn't exactly call it to the point of being poor.


but stock is stiffer in rear, softer in front, as verified by Vorshlag, and Eibach.

But everyone is going stiffer front, softer rear. Wouldn't that cause even more understeer? Or am I looking at this backwards
You're looking at it as though the spring rate is the only thing to consider. It isn't that simple.

Sta-bar stiffnesses (front vs rear) and geometric roll center heights are also involved just for steady-state cornering.

Handling is more than just that; the transient behavior is also important (which brings shocks and struts into the picture.

And that's without looking any deeper than just the primary effects of those things only.


Norm
 

modernbeat

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Steve, as Dave and Whiskey have mentioned, it's a big balancing act and none of the components are isolated from the others. And calculating this on paper only gets you so far. The better (and more complicated) your model, the better you can calculate, but at some point you actually have to test.

And we've tested a LOT of spring packages. We rent sites, set up a course including timing equipment, and usually bring three people - a driver, a tech and a data collector that records setup, driver impressions and times. Here's a batch of really boring pictures we took when doing a test session this August.

Testing Session

DSC_4172-M.jpg


We've found that it's not all spring + bar = handling. It depends on what type of driving you will be doing, autocross, HDPE, time trials or street driving. It depends on what tires you will be using and what rear diff you have. Springs are the starting point, but if you really want the best handling possible, you refine it from there with tweeks to the spring rates, alignment (including bushings) and adjustable bars on both ends. And it depends on being familiar with the chassis you are working with so you can anticipate what a single change will bring.

And yes, it is against popular theory that you can stiffen the front of the Mustang to reduce understeer. But as it's already been explained, is because it's so undersprung that it requires more spring to keep from flopping down on the bumpstops. We tested our nearly-stock 2013 at Eagles Canyon (our local track) and found it....lacking. But once you get some spring rate in it the old standards start working again. Too much bar or spring starts reducing traction at that end.
 

sheizasosay

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The link for "testing session" is broke. Have you had any use or done testing in raising the rear roll center to the top spot of the diff instead of increasing rear swaybar rate or forgoing rear sway alltogether?
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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Can you seriously with a straight face say that you don’t think that Vorshlag is advertising in this forum? Seriously? Every picture has a Vorshlag tag in it, I read something the other day by them and the word “Vorshlag” was in every paragraph or description at least once. His avatar has the company logo in it. I see more from Vorshlag than most the other vendors combined. If I was Sam I would be pestering the powers that be to shut that down or make him a sponsor, one of the two.

Well here's the deal, "gmitch" ... and I call you "gmitch" because you don't use a real name in your posts/sig, so we don't know who you really are. Where you worked for so many years in suspension design and such. Which is funny - since I cannot even state where I work here, because I don't pay them money, but I've tried and they won't take it. So I have a joke about all of that in my signature. :)

We at "v_rshlag" (can I buy a vowel?) take a lot of pictures of products, projects, at races, of OEM parts, etc. We use them to help answer questions, to show how to install parts, or to show products we sell. People and businesses tend steal our pictures, and many even go so far as to claim them as their own. A lot of vendors that compete with me on sales steal our pictures, text, and forum posts on various products. That doesn't make me all warm and fuzzy. So back in about 2002 I started "watermarking" our photos. And I put the company logo in the watermark which is EXTREMELY COMMON, and that isn't "advertising".

E36-non-M-rotor-M.jpg


Take the picture above. Last week somebody on a BMW forum asked "who has the dimensions of an E36 front rotor?" They wanted to know the total thickness and the solid portion thickness, plus diameter. So I went out to the shop, found one, weighed it and took these measurements and pictures, put them together in that montage. And watermarked it. Because if we're going to the trouble of answering a random tech question that we have no hope of getting a sale from, shouldn't we at least get the credit? I can guarantee you that picture will be linked to and used 100s of times in the future. We have 30K+ pictures on our photo gallery site, with some going back to the late 1980s. And we've watermarked all or most of them.

This way, if someone copies one of our pictures and reposts it, at least people know who shot that picture and we get some credit. Sometimes they crop out our watermark (like Jalopnik did in this article yesterday on one of our pictures of the car in the article - which is a big no-no, and they have been contacted, and they will fix this). Doing that is called intellectual theft. It seems to boil down to you and Sam that have a hard time understanding that, but nobody else does. I also don't see you or Sam posting almost any pictures but if or when either of you start doing that, I suggest water marking them. :D

Next, all of my Project Thread Updates are written elsewhere and posted on multiple forums. On many of those forums we are paying sponsors, the rest don't care, or don't have sponsors, or do but ask us to post in their forums without paying. So I write them with some degree of freedom, and that often tends to sound sales-y. I try to not beat people over the head with "buy parts from Vorshlag" but it comes across that way. And sometimes we sell the same widget as another shop, but often we know more about that widget, or how it is installed, or what the limitations are of it, etc. So I try to point out when we have special knowledge of a particular part.

And then there's S197FORUM. Which requires forum sponsorship, and police that vigorously (of which I understand), but wouldn't take our money - for some reason. We tried to become a sponsor before we started posting here, and were told no, but then encouraged to add our build thread and bring tech. I posted in the beginning of my build thread here months ago how I write our Project Thread Updates and if that won't fly, then the site owner can kick us out/ban us or take our money and let us be sponsors. I am not going to cater my project thread posts differently for one forum just because they won't take our money. If we do get banned here then readers can follow us to other forums that we post the same tech in.

Jason and I have have also stepped into some other threads (like this one) here to answer questions (sometimes about our products, which is fair to do) or give opinions or share tech knowledge. We often use our pictures to show what we're talking about. ALL of our pictures have been watermarked for the reasons stated above. If that gets us banned, then that is lame.


And do not assume the above comment means I have an issue with it in any way shape or form. He is a business owner, he should be selling every minute he isn’t sleeping. And while he’s sleeping he should be dreaming up more ways to sell. I applaud his efforts, that’s what it takes to succeed.
The landscape would look much different if he was not selling. His/their posts would look more like yours.:hi:


OK, well... ??? It seems you don't have an issue with me posting the way I do, but you keep insisting all of it is, according to you, blatant selling. I want to point out that some of the tech we bring is not selling, it is just tech. We do a lot of other threads where we have nothing to sell in them. I have a whole project thread on our Chump race car build, which has zero Vorshlag products on it. Its a PoS $500 Firebird we are building for some W2W fun. And we share a lot of tech along the way. That is the opposite of selling, because I'm sinking time and money into it for no chance whatsoever of sales from that, heh. We also had an all-volunteer build for a GRM $20XX Challenge car, also without the chance for "Sales". Even when that car sold for a record amount for a GRM Challenge winning entry, we still lost our shirts on that project because we had 1000+ man hours in that build. That project was just for fun, we shared a TON of knowledge there - that we knew or learned along the way.

So saying that all we do is sales is both inaccurate and unfair. You have only seen a tiny slice of our total volume of online posts if you have only seen us in the S197Forum. We've been active on dozens of forums for years, and I've been posting on automotive forums since the late 1990s, and on BBS before that, and on e-mail lists before that, going back 20+ years on the internet.


For just a moment set everything else aside. Then we can re-visit the topic of “selling with negativity”.
I agree with you there. I really don't like doing that, and I slipped up on the whole Eibach R2 coilover issue. BUT... I have a big problem with how they are marketing these shocks. They say "Made in the USA" on the box, picture of Old Glory flying, but I know for a fact that that is an inaccurate portrayal of where these shocks are made. We have seen many sets of R1 and R2 shocks up close and they have manufacturing techniques, materials and quality only seen on Chinese built products. And after doing a bit of research we found shipments from a South American company that makes shocks to Eibach, which is another smoking gun. You just cannot make a double adjustable coilover monotube with remotes in the USA for $2150. That is un-possible. There are also many ways now to find out when an American company is importing large amounts of parts from overseas, and from where, and in what dollar amounts, and when, and what it weighed. This is how Granetelli got busted in "non-factual statements" on other forums. And it will be the demise of the "USA built" Eibach shenanigans, eventually.

Again, I normally stay out of all negative attacks, but sometimes an issue is too heinous to be ignored. I've confronted Eibach with these issues, and I'm even an Eibach dealer, but they don't seem to be changing their tune. I've seen horrible end user problems with their shocks. I refuse to sell those products for these reasons. I surely could make money hawking their wares, but I won't go there. I don't want to make money like that. I don't sell sweatshop far east shocks, either, and I get about a dozen inquiries a day asking me to. Not trying to sound all high-and-mighty, but I don't want to make money that way. And yes, most of what comes out of China with regards to aftermarket suspension is junk. Garbage. Unreliable. Low quality. Choose your negative adjectives. We've tested sets, dyno'd them showing fake knobs that do nothing, torn them apart and seen so many corners cut. I don't go pouring this data out there in huge volumes, because it always makes us look like the bad guys. But the data is there, and irrefutable, and I will continue to say "that stuff is junk" when appropriate. Especially when they are sold under false pretenses. But you're right, I don't like doing that, and I try to avoid it.

We also don't sell "low cost" shocks. You get what you pay for with shocks, often times. Some would also call low cost shocks "cheap", but that has a negative spin and again, makes us look like the bad guys. Some people only sell low cost things, and that's fine, but we won't.

But Vorshlag also doesn't say things like this. I won't NOT share tech with a forum or an individual just because they aren't paying me money. We're not in this to get rich (not hardly!) and will share our experience from racing or testing or "bad choices" we've made in the past, and we do it whenever asked. Sure, it helps if you become a customer I might even talk longer, but some folks that talk to us never will buy from us. Fact of life - we don't make everything for everyone.

Like how many Mustang folks think $2200 AST shocks are outrageously expansive, even if they have a $40K+ Boss 302 or GT. That's fine. As they get into any sort of competitive motorsport they will figure out what works better and what doesn't. There is no free lunch - cheap shocks slow you down. Chinese shocks tend to have horrible reliability and other blatant performance problems. There are trends and generalizations you learn over time, if you test enough products. Racers tend to understand why quality monotube adjustable shocks cost what they do, and the $2200 that AST 4150s sell for is far cheaper than the starting price for Moton ($5500), MCS, Ohlins, Penske, JRZ, and the like. That's a fact, that's not being a sales wh0re or a mud slinger.

EDIT: Good news! Just got a PM and the site owner here will now allow Vorshlag to be a paying sponsor, and asked us to continue adding tech like we have been. So now we can continue to bring you our project threads, answer questions and show our watermarked pictures and won't have to dance around the "don't act like a vendor" issue. I'm going to update my signature as soon as that is official, hopefully tonight. :)
 

steve13gt

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I think I asked this before but I will ask again, because I don't know if I got a straight answer

Would 350 front 250 Rear be a good place to start, or am I starting too far off. I'd rather get close in my driveway then tune from there, I don't have access to a track constantly, I have to drive pretty far, and I don't have much time there once I do get there..

I also have some 225 springs, I could run in the rear. I didn't really notice a problem in ride comfort with 250 rear but if its hindering my performance, they have to go.

The tracks that I would be going to include Toronto Motorsports Park (Cayuga), Canadian Tire Motorsport Park (Mosport)

All would be "HPDE" or Open Lapping, car is street driven very daily

Mosport International
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Mosport_Raceway_-_Aerial_2-_low-res.jpg

Mosport DDC
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Cayuga (Toronto Motorsports)
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Department Of Boost

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Sure...that one. Dude, there is NO way I would enter a turn AT 140mph without some aero mods on my car unless there was a whole lot of forgiveness on the other side of the road. My hood looks like some shit off The Excorcist at 140.

You should see how fast you are going through there on a 1000cc Motorcycle.:thumb2:
 

modernbeat

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Unless you are on Dot-R tires or slicks, I'd start with a 450f/175r and a stiff front bar.

This assumes the rear springs are in the stock location, not an outboard coilover, and that you have taken care of alignment issues with bushings, camber plates, and an adjustable PHB or Watts and rear arm relocators if you are lowered.

Sounds like a lot? Start with springs and a front bar and then address the rest of it as you get tired of being held back.
 

jymontoya

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As for GC and Griggs and some others that use "Koni's".. those are NOT production Mustang dampers. They work kind of hard to disguise what they are, which are generic race inserts that are fit to a housing to fit the Mustang, making them "custom designed" and so on... but the valving is not.


What does that mean? Generic race inserts? And when you said "the valving is not"? The valving is not what? Not "custom designed"....the valving is no different than a factory sport?


Sam, you only have part of the story. I have first hand experience with the Cortex suspension, but as I understand it, they are similar to the GC and Griggs.

The 'custom' Koni's vary on a per order basis, depending on the needs for that particular cars setup. You can order them with different off the shelf valving that Koni offers from it's racing catalog, or you can order them with custom valving. Cortex refers to this as Street valving or Race valving, but depending on the spring rates chosen, you may end up getting true custom valving provided. The term 'generic' race inserts should not be used derogatorily here, as they offer great valving from the experts at Koni in stock form. It just depends on the application, as to whether it may or may not need to be further tweaked. These inserts are incredibly popular amongst various racing divisions, and should not be put down because they are put in an housing necessary to fit them to the car. This can be a benefit as well, since if you'd like to use a different insert, say Double Adjustable, you can do so without an entirely new assembly. Monotube KONI options are also available with this setup.

So the truth of the matter is that no matter which way you order them, the valving is different than the typical Koni Sport for S197 Mustangs, that you and other vendors offer.
 

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