Engine Rebuild Questions

Dino Dino Bambino

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I guess this thread got slightly derailed. So my real question is what are some necessary or must do replacements to increase reliability. I want to stay stock with power but increase reliability.

The weakest links in the stock short block are the powdered metal connecting rods and oil pump gears. Therefore the most obvious upgrades are forged rods/pistons plus an oil pump with a steel backplate and billet gears. If you road race, you'll also need to upgrade the oil pan since the OEM unit doesn't provide adequate oil control under high lateral g forces.
 

Cancerman

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I guess this thread got slightly derailed. So my real question is what are some necessary or must do replacements to increase reliability. I want to stay stock with power but increase reliability.
Replace your plastic thermostat housing with an aluminum one. Run a 180-ish thermostat if you live anywhere warm with a fresh radiator, they are less than $100. The cam gears, chain, guides and tensioners are a weak point after 100k miles. Aftermarket have improvements for replacements. Even the FOMOCO replacements now are better than what came in them. Keep good clean oil and filter in it. That's part of what kills the tensioners is dirty contaminated oil. Keep an eye on your cooling system, waterpump, belt, etc. Don't run it hot. If you rebuild it or have your heads off use something like Cometic gaskets. The engines are very tough if you follow these things. But if you abuse it, hell you can break anything. I did all these things with my reman 4.0. A free flowing muffler, or real dual help it breathe. Don't put a fart can on it. The drone will make driving it unbearable. I have a Cold air intake on mine from the previous owner. It have a tuning problem that I'm working through. Don't do it unless you are willing to deal with the tune issue. Just my thoughts. These are recommends for street use of course.
 

DieHarder

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I don't know where that number came from... My dealer labor rates here (Denver) are about $190/hr.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Internet - my bad.... should have tried a few more search terms.... see several more now ranging $45 - $170 with the median at $120/hr for dealer labor rates. At those rates I'll do everything I can before I take it to a dealer.... Appreciate the reality check.
 
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Midlife Crises

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I guess this thread got slightly derailed. So my real question is what are some necessary or must do replacements to increase reliability. I want to stay stock with power but increase reliability.
If you are wanting to stay at the stock power level and don’t plan on beating the hell out your Mustang there really is no week point. Reliability has not been a problem with the 3 valve or the rest of the drivetrain for that matter. Rev it sky hi, speed shifting and drag launches will find “create” week spots for you to address. Same with the suspension. Normal driving, everything is fine but put it on a road coarse at hi speed and you will find things to improve.
So. Before spending money you have to decide what you really want to do with the car. The way you treat it will determine what may fail.
Based on intended usage my requirements for a fresh engine are likely different than yours.
 

whitmanink

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well as for reliability ,, just make sure he changes the oil on time, and keeps up with changing the timing or roller followers if they make noise ,,,other than that,, beat the hell out of it
 

Vonvirgo1

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Can you pull the engine without removing the transmission as it says in the manual?
 

Vonvirgo1

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The rebuild has concluded as of today. The replacement has begun as of now.

EF7F67E1-A76D-4BCF-94E4-2AB18A04607D.jpeg
 

RED09GT

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That sucks.

With the supply chain issues, I'd sell what you can and do an F150 coyote swap. My ARP main studs for a 3V have been on order since October.
 

Vonvirgo1

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What changed between 07 and 08 with the engine? are the 08 - 10 4.6 a direct fit still?
 

Midlife Crises

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On the 08 to 10 the heads take a different spark plug and have a slightly different coil. The intake manifold and water crossover between the heads is slightly different on the 2010 as well but there is no problem swapping the manifolds. Early or late will bolt rite on.
Smart ass question comming. why did you window your block?
 
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Vonvirgo1

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On the 08 to 10 the heads take a different spark plug and have a slightly different coil. The intake manifold and water crossover between the heads is slightly different on the 2010 as well but there is no problem swapping the manifolds. Early or late will bolt rite on.
Smart ass question common. why did you window your block?
I didn't realize the hole existed until yesterday but it was created back in 2020 I believe when I was cranking in clear flood mode doing compression testing and the engine started and over-revved instantly.
 

Vonvirgo1

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I'm looking at the ATK reman from JEGS and I can pick the 05-08 and 08-10 long block options but not sure if I should get the newer model? Same price. I currently have an 05.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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I didn't realize the hole existed until yesterday but it was created back in 2020 I believe when I was cranking in clear flood mode doing compression testing and the engine started and over-revved instantly.

Could one of the cylinders have been hydrolocked enough to break a connecting rod, or was it a simple overrev well into the tachometer red zone? You might have prevented this by removing the plugs and cranking the engine over to clear the cylinders.

I'm looking at the ATK reman from JEGS and I can pick the 05-08 and 08-10 long block options but not sure if I should get the newer model? Same price. I currently have an 05.

It probably doesn't matter 'cause the likelihood is that even the older '05-'08.5 long block will be fitted with Motorcraft's updated spark plugs anyway. The only difference between these and the later long blocks is the type of spark plugs used in the heads (16mm plugs & black coils on '05-'08.5, 12mm plugs & brown coils on '08.5-'10).
 

Vonvirgo1

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On the 08 to 10 the heads take a different spark plug and have a slightly different coil. The intake manifold and water crossover between the heads is slightly different on the 2010 as well but there is no problem swapping the manifolds. Early or late will bolt rite on.
Smart ass question comming. why did you window your block?
So do I need to buy a new intake manifold and crossover tube if I buy a 08-10 long block? I have also heard online that even when buying a reman engine you should tear it apart and check everything, any thoughts?
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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So do I need to buy a new intake manifold and crossover tube if I buy a 08-10 long block? I have also heard online that even when buying a reman engine you should tear it apart and check everything, any thoughts?

You can reuse your existing intake manifold and coolant crossover. That said, updating to the '07-'10 coolant crossover would allow you to declutter the front of the engine by getting rid of the remote thermostat housing, and by substituting the six coolant hoses that go with the '05-'06 set up with the simpler two hose set-up from '07-'10.
As for tearing a reman engine apart, that shouldn't be necessary since any decent supplier would also provide a warranty. If you're worried about what parts were used inside a reman engine in case it might be a ticking time bomb, there's a lot to be said for buying a running junkyard engine and rebuilding it with YOUR selection of parts if you want peace of mind.
 

Vonvirgo1

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The core charge for the reman is $360. Should I just keep my engine and part it out? The heads are probably still worth something.
 

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