Finally tired of parts store Alternators...

[michael.konor]

Intermittent weirdness in car, all centered around the dreaded P0340 issues. Swapped over to another alternator I had sitting, which was a motorcraft. But it's only charging at 13.4VDC at idle and 13.8VDC at speed, so it's a no-go.

So... I'm either going to go with the PA Performance 130amp, or an actual motorcraft replacement.

However, going through Rock Auto, there are these listed for 05-08's:

GLV8424RM (XR3Z10V346AARM) $190
GLV8668RM (XR3Z10V346AARM) $211
GLV8722RM $226
GL8745RM $258
GL977RM (7R3Z10346B and 7R3Z10346BRM) $258
GLV8630RM (6R3Z10V346DARM) $280

Does it matter which one I pickup?

 

[skwerl]

check out gmitch's posts in this thread-
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105988

 

[michael.konor]

^^^
Good info, subscribed, and I might be interested in their Denso option if they figure it out. But in the meantime, I'm going to stick a Motorcraft in there if I can get some feedback on the 6 different part numbers.

 

[joe_momma]

Sqidd (DOB) makes a true 200A replacement if you want to go that route.

 

[svtrojan]

I'd be interested in any feedback on those as well. My check charging system light is going on and off and my gauge cluster is tripping out.

 

[crownaviation]

I'd be interested in any feedback on those as well. My check charging system light is going on and off and my gauge cluster is tripping out.

Excellent alt. I have been running one for a while now and zero issues. I have the 200amp DOB alt they built. I have all sorts of electrical stuff/load with my setup and not a hiccup.

currently running:

2 painless wiring add-a-circuit kits (14 additional circuits)
2 meziere electric water pumps
nitrous solenoids with wot box control
nitrous purge valve
bottle warmer
shaker 1000 subs
line lock
2 step
afco dual fans for heatexchanger
5 gauges
custom relay pack for tranny functions/manual valve body (trans brake, converter lock, o/d)
tranny cooler fan
dual walbro 465 fuel pumps
Have this on a convertible so there is also a big ass hydro power pack to boot
Taylor battery relocation kit with battery disconnect

certain I am forgetting a few things

 

[scramblr]

I've had the 130 PA Performance for about 4 years after the stocker took a dump. Zero issues.

 

[blownGTvert]

I have a DOB 200a 4g alternator as well. No issues.

 

[mfergel]

I've had the PA Performance about a year now.

 

[svtrojan]

Excellent alt. I have been running one for a while now and zero issues. I have the 200amp DOB alt they built. I have all sorts of electrical stuff/load with my setup and not a hiccup.

currently running:

2 painless wiring add-a-circuit kits (14 additional circuits)
2 meziere electric water pumps
nitrous solenoids with wot box control
nitrous purge valve
bottle warmer
shaker 1000 subs
line lock
2 step
afco dual fans for heatexchanger
5 gauges
custom relay pack for tranny functions/manual valve body (trans brake, converter lock, o/d)
tranny cooler fan
dual walbro 465 fuel pumps
Have this on a convertible so there is also a big ass hydro power pack to boot
Taylor battery relocation kit with battery disconnect

certain I am forgetting a few things

I have a DOB 200a 4g alternator as well. No issues.

Where do you get a DOB 200a 4g? Did you use an upgraded wiring kit and where did you get it from? My car kept flashing that charging error, I'm worried my car is going to leave me one of these days...

 

[702GT]

It's worth noting that if you use the average shipped to your door battery relocate kit, most of your charging issues will be caused by them. I've seen very few brands (really only the custom built ones) supply proper gauge wiring for their relocation kits. They supply just the biggest gauge to get the job done, the only real concern they have is meeting NHRA compliance, which isn't all that difficult. Track cars will rarely see charging issues with a standard battery relocate, since most race car owners remove their batteries from the car and/or charge them externally between races/events/storage. The street guys with relocates suffer for it, especially those with electronic toys (stereo systems are huge draws). Wire that is too small a guage will make the alternator fight to push power to the battery while also feeding the running system draw. Alternators can charge at 100% rating but working at 100% under load will wear an alternator out fast. After so many big battery hits the battery will continuely put a higher and higher demand on the alternator. This won't always be the reason for bad alternators, but it's one of the biggest causes that's easily avoidable.

I don't give a damn what any of the Taylor reps spew, 1 gauge automotive wire isn't big enough for a street car. And they're one of the few brands who supply 1 gauge, I've seen some janky 2G and 4G kits (pretty sure the 4G kits are repackaged stereo amp install kits lol).

 

[joe_momma]

It's worth noting that if you use the average shipped to your door battery relocate kit, most of your charging issues will be caused by them. I've seen very few brands (really only the custom built ones) supply proper gauge wiring for their relocation kits. They supply just the biggest gauge to get the job done, the only real concern they have is meeting NHRA compliance, which isn't all that difficult. Track cars will rarely see charging issues with a standard battery relocate, since most race car owners remove their batteries from the car and/or charge them externally between races/events/storage. The street guys with relocates suffer for it, especially those with electronic toys (stereo systems are huge draws). Wire that is too small a guage will make the alternator fight to push power to the battery while also feeding the running system draw. Alternators can charge at 100% rating but working at 100% under load will wear an alternator out fast. After so many big battery hits the battery will continuely put a higher and higher demand on the alternator. This won't always be the reason for bad alternators, but it's one of the biggest causes that's easily avoidable.

I don't give a damn what any of the Taylor reps spew, 1 gauge automotive wire isn't big enough for a street car. And they're one of the few brands who supply 1 gauge, I've seen some janky 2G and 4G kits (pretty sure the 4G kits are repackaged stereo amp install kits lol).

This. Also of note is that most reputable stereo shops (not Best Buy and the like) will recommend upgrades to the wiring between chassis ground, battery, and alternator as a FIRST step in a custom install. Lots of problems can be solved right here. If you're going to take the time to put in a decent alternator, upgrade "the big three" while you are at it...especially if doing a relocate. No sense adding problems.

 

[crownaviation]

My Taylor came with 0 gauge. For my alt I went with 2ga and use a mega fuse. Mostly street. Red top and all is good

Contact Jason at [email protected]

Iirc for the standard mount location they are clocked different than the ones for the supercharger bracket. It will be basically what comes with their new manifold for the Whipple

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Use the Mitsubishi from a same year crown Victoria police interceptor. Just a little bit longer than the 6G and has 215 rated amps. Same frame and mounts too, it bolts right up.

 

[skwerl]

Use the Mitsubishi from a same year crown Victoria police interceptor. Just a little bit longer than the 6G and has 215 rated amps. Same frame and mounts too, it bolts right up.

If this is accurate then that's fucking awesome! I think you're gonna fit in just fine around here.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

If this is accurate then that's fucking awesome! I think you're gonna fit in just fine around here.

I know the frames mount up identically. The only question in my book is if the plugs are the same, and I'm about 90% sure they are. It's the same engine, so I don't know why they would differ. If not, a simple rewiring or plug adaptor would work.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Plugs are identical. B+ would need to be enlarged.