First mods, sub frames, swaybar relo?

[06GT-]

06 GT , new to me.
Stock.

any feedback on these first mods?
1-bmr Subframe connectors to protect the pinch welds when jacking the car up
2-bmr Sway bar relo, to fit a marketplace drag pack.

Any feedback or experience with these parts?

 

[XJCasper]

Welcome....

Need more info.
How many miles does the car have. How up to date on the general maintenance is this Mustang ? Maintenance would be my first concern.

Neither of the options you posted would be first on my list. But we all have our own preferences.

 

[stkjock]

sub-frames not needed IMO

agree w. XJC, more details needed.

 

[06GT-]

Welcome....

Need more info.
How many miles does the car have. How up to date on the general maintenance is this Mustang ? Maintenance would be my first concern.

Neither of the options you posted would be first on my list. But we all have our own preferences.

I had fluids, alignment, alternator all done rightaway.

I’ll find a drag pack local and do name baselining before power mods.

But considering LTH 2” exhaust as the next step.
I do have an mpvi4 I use with other vehicles.

I do not want to lower the vehicle at all.
It’s stock, just a guest shifter an fr mufflers, and nittos

 

[Midlife Crises]

You only need the sway bar relocation brackets if you are going to run 15” x 10” wide wheels and then you still have to cut part of the factory mount away for clearance. Whiteline and BMR both offer sway bars that mount differently so the mount can be eliminated completely.
The S197 has a pretty stiff chassis and doesn’t gain much by using subframe connectors. There is a crossbar available that connects the right and left frame rails together approximately under the bell housing. It was factory installed on later models.

 

[06GT-]

You only need the sway bar relocation brackets if you are going to run 15” x 10” wide wheels and then you still have to cut part of the factory mount away for clearance. Whiteline and BMR both offer sway bars that mount differently so the mount can be eliminated completely.
The S197 has a pretty stiff chassis and doesn’t gain much by using subframe connectors. There is a crossbar available that connects the right and left frame rails together approximately under the bell housing. It was factory installed on later models.

15x10 seem to be the most commonly available size on marketplace? You are saying Bmr has a sway bar that works with 15x10s? Is that sb023?

 

[StockishS197]

I had fluids, alignment, alternator all done rightaway.

I’ll find a drag pack local and do name baselining before power mods.

But considering LTH 2” exhaust as the next step.
I do have an mpvi4 I use with other vehicles.

I do not want to lower the vehicle at all.
It’s stock, just a guest shifter an fr mufflers, and nittos

What are your plans for the car?

2” primaries are way overkill on 3v’s. Most run 1 5/8s and do just fine, even with boosted apps, not to mention install will be easier.

 

[Midlife Crises]

15x10 seem to be the most commonly available size on marketplace? You are saying Bmr has a sway bar that works with 15x10s? Is that sb023?

Yes. BMR and WHITELINE both have sway bars for the rear that mount differently and allow 10”wide 15” wheels to fit. The only reason I can think of to run a 15” wheel is for drag slicks. Anything else, you can run an 18” wheel and the sway bar mount is not a concern.

 

[06GT-]

Yes. BMR and WHITELINE both have sway bars for the rear that mount differently and allow 10”wide 15” wheels to fit. The only reason I can think of to run a 15” wheel is for drag slicks. Anything else, you can run an 18” wheel and the sway bar mount is not a concern.

The sb023 allows for the 15x10? Or a different model? 15x10 seems to be the most available slick on marketplace

 

[Midlife Crises]

StockishS197 is right on. The 4.6 isn’t big enough to use primary tubes larger than 1 5/8”. If your supercharged and turning 7,000 rpm, 1 3/4” tubes might be worth a couple HP up top. Or maybe not. The car came with 2 1/2” exhaust from the factory that flows pretty well. The mufflers have a huge impact on exhaust flow.

 

[Midlife Crises]

The sb023 allows for the 15x10? Or a different model? 15x10 seems to be the most available slick on marketplace

No. I’m talking about BMRs Extreme kits that mount the sway bar inside of the rear wheels. The WHITELINE sway bar also mounts in a fashion that the end links are away from the axle and not near the tires.
I only mention these two different systems because I am running the BMR sway bar brackets you listed with a STRANO adjustable rear sway bar. Having the sway bar ends, shock mounts and LCA relocation brackets all crammed into the same space makes it a pain in the ass to work on any of it. If I was doing it again I would probably give the Whitline rear sway bar a try.

 

[Pentalab]

What are your plans for the car?

2” primaries are way overkill on 3v’s. Most run 1 5/8s and do just fine, even with boosted apps, not to mention install will be easier.

(Only the The 11+ cars with the 5.0l eng get 1 7/8" primary's....and their 3" collector).

1 5/8" primary's...and 2.5" collector..... and 2.5" mid section.
I used JBA titanium ceramic coated LT's, and their hi-flow Catted H. The catted H is unique,,,,since it's 2.5" for the H portion. On oem exhaust, ford inserted a disc inside the H, with a 3/8" dead center in the disc, wtf.

That was a good mod, it made a huge difference...with my small Roush M-90 blower.

 

[06GT-]

No. I’m talking about BMRs Extreme kits that mount the sway bar inside of the rear wheels. The WHITELINE sway bar also mounts in a fashion that the end links are away from the axle and not near the tires.
I only mention these two different systems because I am running the BMR sway bar brackets you listed with a STRANO adjustable rear sway bar. Having the sway bar ends, shock mounts and LCA relocation brackets all crammed into the same space makes it a pain in the ass to work on any of it. If I was doing it again I would probably give the Whitline rear sway bar a try.

“ The SB042 attaches to your Mustang with fabricated end links and 88-durometer polyurethane bushings“

Does sb042 work for 15x10s?

 

[cavero]

I'd always read the same about the S197 chassis not needed subframe connectors either.

For a 1st mod, I'd probably get an intake and tune, at least the tune. It's really going to wake that engine up.

Could also upgrade the stereo, the Shaker systems never sounded that good.

I don't know about long tubes if you're looking for power, the stock shorties flow really well.

 

[06GT-]

I'd always read the same about the S197 chassis not needed subframe connectors either.

For a 1st mod, I'd probably get an intake and tune, at least the tune. It's really going to wake that engine up.

Could also upgrade the stereo, the Shaker systems never sounded that good.

I don't know about long tubes if you're looking for power, the stock shorties flow really well.

I’ve been reading the s197 is a stiffer than the sn95 but substantially behind the s650.
The anecdotes seemed to be people saying the chassis stiffening makes a big difference after they’ve done it?

 

[AHaze]

We're generally inclined to "feel a big difference" after laying out our hard earned cash for parts. I don't have any chassis stiffening mods on my car so I won't tell you they don't do anything but the S197 coupe unibody measures 50% stiffer in torsion than a C7 Corvette and 90% as stiff as a Ferrari 360 Berlinetta. I think it's reasonable to say that chassis stiffening doesn't need to be on your "first mods" list.
My suggestions would be:
1. Rear lower control arms with poly bushings. All of the bushings in these cars are crazy soft but the stock RLCAs allow serious wheel hop which is unpleasant and hard on driveline parts. Once I got mine installed, I was mad at myself for not doing it the day I bought the car.
2. Polyurethane engine mounts (if the car is a manual). These somewhat correct the terrible shift feel these cars are known for. The stock shifter is also less than stellar but there's little point in upgrading that if the transmission is moving all over the place. Fair warning: there is a small NVH penalty with this mod.
3. Shocks/struts. Stock ones are OK for a cruiser but I found them too soft for even slightly agressive street maneuvers, especially the rears. Unfortunately, dampers that improve handling tend to hurt your 60' times so you'll have to decide which is more important.

 

[GriffX]

Check if you have No 2. My 07 didn't come with one.

 

[cavero]

We're generally inclined to "feel a big difference" after laying out our hard earned cash for parts. I don't have any chassis stiffening mods on my car so I won't tell you they don't do anything but the S197 coupe unibody measures 50% stiffer in torsion than a C7 Corvette and 90% as stiff as a Ferrari 360 Berlinetta. I think it's reasonable to say that chassis stiffening doesn't need to be on your "first mods" list.
My suggestions would be:
1. Rear lower control arms with poly bushings. All of the bushings in these cars are crazy soft but the stock RLCAs allow serious wheel hop which is unpleasant and hard on driveline parts. Once I got mine installed, I was mad at myself for not doing it the day I bought the car.
2. Polyurethane engine mounts (if the car is a manual). These somewhat correct the terrible shift feel these cars are known for. The stock shifter is also less than stellar but there's little point in upgrading that if the transmission is moving all over the place. Fair warning: there is a small NVH penalty with this mod.
3. Shocks/struts. Stock ones are OK for a cruiser but I found them too soft for even slightly agressive street maneuvers, especially the rears. Unfortunately, dampers that improve handling tend to hurt your 60' times so you'll have to decide which is more important.

Yeah, after getting a strut tower brace I tried to see if I could feel a difference, I *thought* yeah if I hit a pothole I didn't feel as much cowl shake, but TBH I if it was real, it wasn't night and day.


Great point on wheel hop
+1 on a set of LCA's -- agree they actually DO make a huge difference difference on wheel hop. Steeda has a 'stop the hop' kit that includes an adjustable upper control arm too, but I don't think you really need that on a stock ride height.

Steeda S197 Mustang Stop The Hop Package (2005-2010)

Got wheel hop on your S197 Mustang? Looking to get it under control without breaking the bank? Steeda's cost effective Stop The Hop Pack is for you!

www.steeda.com

I was going to suggest urethane shifter bushings too (the front bushing is like a pencil eraser on the '06) but I saw he already has an aftermarket shifter