First time doing a clutch in s197 few questions?

[Grannycar]

Ok I've done multiple clutch jobs on 86-04 mustangs. First time doing one on my 07 gt/cs.
Just have a few questions, the two piece driveshaft, can I just unbolt it at the tail shaft and then where the two connect instead of the whole piece? Also what do I do with the slave/tob? Is there a fluid line going into the trans? How do I bleed it as well?
Orrrr if anyone has a right up lol

 

[BruceH]

The biggest obstacle will be the bellhousing ears. You can clock them out of the way or lower the k member so they will clear the tunnel. Don't be fooled, it looks like they will clear but they don't, no matter how many hours you fight it, lol.

If you don't want to take the ds out then you could leave the pinion attached and unblolt the midsection hanger and front of ds where it attaches to the tailshaft. Is that what you are asking?

The fluid line unclips at the bellhousing. The only way to bleed the slave is by pumping the clutch pedal or with a vacuum pump on the reservior. You can also bench bleed it by fully compressing the slave with the line in a bottle of brake fluid. Let it out slowly and the slave will be filled with brake fluid prior to being installed.

There are a few write ups. hammeron has a few write ups on his cook paging/comcast page. An internet search will turn it up.

 

[Grannycar]

Thanks! And with the driveshaft I meant obv the front 12 point bolts but then where the middle bushing is there are about 5-7 10mm bolts where the second part bolts up. Can't I just unbolt that and only take out the front half of the driveshaft?

Still having trouble finding it lol hammer pm's how to

 

[BruceH]

http://home.comcast.net/~cookpaging/hammeron/clutch/clutch.html

I don't know about taking the front shaft out. You could unbolt the hanger which is two bolts, drop the ds and move it to the side.

 

[Grannycar]

I'll do that then haha thanks a lot!!

So if I'm reading this right. If I don't mess with the slave cylinder there is no line to disconnect? And no bleeding required?

 

[skwerl]

You have to disconnect the line before you can remove the transmission. Yes, there will be bleeding involved (both you and the clutch, most likely).

A helpful note- the clutch line is held in place with cotter clips on the fittings. Do not remove the cotter clip completely, just slide it out until it stops and the line will pull out. Similar in design to some older fuel line clips. Have something handy to plug the line or else a pan to catch all your brake fluid because it will run until the reservoir is empty.

 

[rzaenglein]

I don't know what clutch you are planning on going to but these hydraulic systems can be a pain. I suggest you check out these to links and do the measurements or you may be very upset that you didn't

http://www.ramclutches.com/Instructions/FACTORYBEARINGPOSITION1010.pdf

http://www.ramclutches.com/Instructions/Factory Hyd Setup.htm

 

[Grannycar]

Well that's awesome to know butttt I don't have a dial indicator lol. I was just gonna go with prob. A exedy stage 1 350 series something lol that.
I see I should do the measurements but does really everyone do it?

 

[skwerl]

Here's some reading for you in answer to your last question. With strictly stock type replacement items you'll probably be fine. But upgraded stuff can result in issues like this if the proper steps aren't followed.
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94901

 

[BruceH]

Well that's awesome to know butttt I don't have a dial indicator lol. I was just gonna go with prob. A exedy stage 1 350 series something lol that.
I see I should do the measurements but does really everyone do it?

I've never done it. My current rst drug a little at first but it was nothing to get concerned about.

You can get a fairly accurate dial indicator with a magnetic base for under $20 from china freight.

 

[Grannycar]

Well looks like I'm making a stop there tomorrow hah. I may though just get another stock replacement clutch

 

[Cammed 05]

Just go for it man. These guys pretty much have it covered. If you have access to a lift it makes it go much faster. Our first time we had the trans back in and car on the ground in 2 hours and 45 mins with just a slave replacement. Our 2nd time around was just under an hour and a half with a full clutch/slave/flywheel replacement. But we're not your average joes either not your perfect ford technician either lol. Good luck and take things slow!

 

[Mach2burnout]

Unbolt the driveshaft at the back of the Trans only. Loosen the swing bearing bracket a little and slide the DS back about 3/8". This is all you need. Use a large electrical tie or 2 small ones to tie it up to the shifter bracket. I just did an 08 this way 2 weeks ago. It took me 2 nights after work by myself. About an hour and a half each night.

If you are working off jack stands, unbolt the left alum. motor mount bracket off the motor and remove it. Jack the engine up enough to remove the right motor mount (rubber mount from the frame and remove entirely. Let the engine and Trans down until the oil pan is touching the k member. This will get you low enough to remove the Trans with limited difficulty. The two ears discussed earlier are a pain but just turn the Trans about 10* to the right and it will come right back out. Be sure to test fit your clutch in your Trans shaft prior to installation. Some fit very tight on the shaft. Just be careful while raising and lowering the engine.

I don't have a Trans jack so I use a floor jack, a block of wood and a small ratchet strap as a Trans jack.



Sent from iPhone

 

[Ryan331]

Unbolt the driveshaft at the back of the Trans only. Loosen the swing bearing bracket a little and slide the DS back about 3/8". This is all you need. Use a large electrical tie or 2 small ones to tie it up to the shifter bracket. I just did an 08 this way 2 weeks ago. It took me 2 nights after work by myself. About an hour and a half each night.

If you are working off jack stands, unbolt the left alum. motor mount bracket off the motor and remove it. Jack the engine up enough to remove the right motor mount (rubber mount from the frame and remove entirely. Let the engine and Trans down until the oil pan is touching the k member. This will get you low enough to remove the Trans with limited difficulty. The two ears discussed earlier are a pain but just turn the Trans about 10* to the right and it will come right back out. Be sure to test fit your clutch in your Trans shaft prior to installation. Some fit very tight on the shaft. Just be careful while raising and lowering the engine.

I don't have a Trans jack so I use a floor jack, a block of wood and a small ratchet strap as a Trans jack.



Sent from iPhone

Yeah trans does not come out too easily.. After trying to get trans out and realizing it just didn't clear, going back to my Supra days - I backed the trans out as far as I could and unbolted the pressure plate, once it was free trans dropped right down down..

I was putting a TR6060 in so reassembly was a bit easier, but it took only 5 minutes to remove pressure plate vs messing with the motor mounts

 

[Cammed 05]

Be careful with the stock driveshaft. We busted the boot because it hung down too low at one point before we tied it up with something.

 

[Taxman]

sub'd

 

[Mach2burnout]

Be careful with the stock driveshaft. We busted the boot because it hung down too low at one point before we tied it up with something.

This is why I tie them up as soon as the bolts are removed. Also is a good idea to mark the flange on the DS and on the back of the Trans prior to bolt removal.

I take the "note" on the DS from ford very literally.


Sent from iPhone

 

[555]

just take the DS out its only 4 more bolts

 

[bradleyem]

X2 on marking the drive shaft flanges so that it is lined up correctly. Also, don't lose that clip for the slave cylinder line..it likes to pop off and go into the holes in the unibody where you will never get it out and its a pain to get from the dealership...I ended up replacing the whole line.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

[Grannycar]

Now with the hydraulic line that goes to the slave I can drop the trans mount then be able to disconnect it? Cause right now with the trans up it looks like no way I can reach it and get it off.