Fuel's Winter Project: Build It Before It Blows

JeremyH

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Sounds fun! Low rpm powaaa is what I will be lacking.


That's the goal and what I miss, since that's where I spend most of my time on the street under 4k rpms. Is it too much to ask for full boost at or before 2k rpms? lol I was planning on a 7675 for this but I know I don't want more than 800rwhp so I may stick with the 7070, I'm still a firm believer in keeping the turbo as small possible to support your max power goal and rpm goal. So I have been battling the urge to go bigger lol
Even with a spool valve I suspect the 75mm turbine will be a little lazy on my motor. If I had a stroked or bored higher compression motor it would probably make the decision easier.



I hope to keep away from that issue with the forward facing kit

It's not just about distance from the motor to a point although that helps some. Less volume of pipe before the turbine will make it easier to build pre turbine pressure and get the wheel moving. It's more about cubes and compression. Turbine size plays directly off that, you need the displacement and exhaust volume to spin the turbine efficiently, just as you can get compressor you can get wheel slip or stall from too. I'm really interested to see how that big turbo works out or you Josh with the current motor. While it will likely work fine to support the peak power you want, I worry a lot about stuff like optimizing and efficiency lol
 
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JoshK

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Well I bought a set of 2.5" socket pipes to go onto the exhaust manifolds. The sockets are too deep on these to fit the ball on the manifold. They are bottoming out. I am going to trim the ends off and see if I can get them to where they will seal. First step of the new kit you could say.



 

JeremyH

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Yeah those ball sockets aren't the best for manifold connections. You could user regular 2.5" pipe and get a pipe expander to expand the ends a little. You can get them from harbor freight etc.
 

JoshK

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Well I trimmed a little bit(just over an 1/8") off of the socket on one pipe. It is fitting much better now, but I believe I need to take just a little more off for the best fitment.



Also decided to set the turbo into the engine bay on top of the up-pipe of my current turbo kit. As you can see, the bolt holes are about a half a hole off with the turbo sitting against the cam cover. It wouldn't be a lot of work to mod this kit to make it work. I would have to make a larger downpipe. I am just not happy with the engine bay looks right now away, so removing the ac and the evap stuff from under the hood would really clean it up. It would also give me ample room to step up to a 3.5" pipe from the intercooler to the tb with the way things are layed out right now. Deleteing or relocating the abs would be nice too, but not sure about that at this point.







 

JoshK

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Got a good bit of work done so far today. Removed all of the old turbo kit except for the headers so far. Also bled down the AC system.



 

JoshK

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Left the garage after bleeding down the ac system but before tearing it out today. That stuff will make you woozy after a bit.


Also, Billy if you are reading this....any info on deleting the abs system?
 

JoshK

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Did you delete your abs or just relocate it? If you deleted it how did you run the lines since the abs block is used as a distribution block is it not? What about the wiring?
 

05stroker

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Did you delete your abs or just relocate it? If you deleted it how did you run the lines since the abs block is used as a distribution block is it not? What about the wiring?

I deleted mine. You will have to remove the gauge cluster and put some electrical tape behind the gauge face to block the abs light since it cannot be disabled in the tune. That or remove the light itself. I used a jegs proportion ing valve as the new block and used all braided lines on mine. If I was to do it again, I would bend new SS lines. The wiring can be removed and cut under the drivers side dash. I used heat shrink to cap all the wires.
 

JoshK

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Did you install the proportioning valve near the master or where the abs sits now? How many wires are in the abs connector? Just cut them all?
 

JeremyH

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I need to get around to disabling my abs light as well. I've been meaning to pull the cluster and was going to desolder the leds from the board lol
 

JoshK

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So you did have to make a t for the rear lines? I see it says only one output for the rear breaks and two for the front.
 

JoshK

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Awesome, and no need for the brake light connections since that is on the brake pedal assembly in the car right?


Adding a line lock to this would be done after the distribution valve or before?
 

05stroker

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Awesome, and no need for the brake light connections since that is on the brake pedal assembly in the car right?


Adding a line lock to this would be done after the distribution valve or before?
The brake light is activated at the MC and the parking brake. My line lock is between the MC And the PV.
 

JoshK

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Very good, thank you for the help. Doesn't sound too hard. I will look you up for more info if I run into a problem. Thanks again.
 

gray1622

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Can you take some pics of how the AC compressor is in the way? If it is the Exhaust manifold hitting I wonder if you can flip them so they point up and clear. I would really like to do something like this but in Oklahoma it gets 110 degree. BTW I was looking on the yellowbullet and people suggest getting tubing from here http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/
 

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