Fuel's Winter Project: Build It Before It Blows
- Thread starter JoshK
- Start date
Any advice for me guys?
1. Cold start just can't seem to get nailed down. Manuel will send me a revision and it will cold start great the first couple of times, but went out today and had to crank it 5 times to start.
2. Doesn't want to start after it is all warmed up. Acts like the battery is dead. Through some jumper cables on it(hooked up to the 12 volt stud under the hood) and it will start right up.
3. The N2MB needs the settings rewrote almost everytime I take it out otherwise the car will cut spark at WOT. Rewrite the settings and it goes away.
3A. Rewriting the settings to the N2MB usually works but today it didn't. I went into the WOT BOX interface and shut everything off(disabled) and it still wanted to do it. Almost seemed like a miss at WOT. I pulled the plugs about a month ago and they looked fine. Think I will pull them again after the weekend and give them another look. These plugs are one year old and have about 1500 miles on them I would say. Ford Racing One Degree colder plugs gapped at .028
1. Cold start just can't seem to get nailed down. Manuel will send me a revision and it will cold start great the first couple of times, but went out today and had to crank it 5 times to start.
2. Doesn't want to start after it is all warmed up. Acts like the battery is dead. Through some jumper cables on it(hooked up to the 12 volt stud under the hood) and it will start right up.
3. The N2MB needs the settings rewrote almost everytime I take it out otherwise the car will cut spark at WOT. Rewrite the settings and it goes away.
3A. Rewriting the settings to the N2MB usually works but today it didn't. I went into the WOT BOX interface and shut everything off(disabled) and it still wanted to do it. Almost seemed like a miss at WOT. I pulled the plugs about a month ago and they looked fine. Think I will pull them again after the weekend and give them another look. These plugs are one year old and have about 1500 miles on them I would say. Ford Racing One Degree colder plugs gapped at .028
one eyed willy
Pizzle fo shizzle
What's the fuel pressure doing?
JeremyH
3V Fuel Guru
I would put stock heat range plugs back in Josh. I'm running ht1's at .028 with e85 in my setup.
As for the Wot Box. I would check all the wiring connections and make sure they are solid. Also give nm2b a call they are very helpful in troubleshooting the wot box and may be able to help you.
Have the battery checked out, how old is it?
As for the Wot Box. I would check all the wiring connections and make sure they are solid. Also give nm2b a call they are very helpful in troubleshooting the wot box and may be able to help you.
Have the battery checked out, how old is it?
Makdaddy
I am Dysfunctional
Sounds like it may be a bad ground to me
Didnt you have some grounding issues once before?
Had the car out again yesterday and there was no miss or spark cut at all. The only really recurring issue seems to be the car not wanting to start when it is warm and you shut it off for say 5 or ten minutes.
Sprayer84
Senior Member
Have good fuel pressure? I've seen that happen where pumps have bleed back exceptionally fast
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mikeramirez23
Member
I had a 70 Mach 1 with high compression and it would not start after the engine had warmed up. If you let it cool down for a few minutes it would start right up. When the car was warm and I would try and start it, it almost sounded like the starter was in a bind. I replaced the starter with a new high torque starter and it fixed the problem.
well the car is back in the air to swap springs. Hopefully this will help with the clearance issues with the hoosiers and the suspension travel on launch. I will be taking the car to the grudge drag races on the 4th of July again at the airport so hopefully the engine issues arent too serious. If they are, I will be shopping for a block.
Sprayer84
Senior Member
Engine issues? I don't think a new engine will help your warm start-up issue.
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I was kidding. I have a few things to try when i get the car back together and have no dont it will get sorted out once i can get some more information on what the car is doing. I am still going to pull the plugs again though.
Roush springs installed.
Also, now this issue(taken from my thread in the Drag Section)
I swapped a set of Roush springs onto the car yesterday. Also running the set of Hoosier Drag Radials pictured above. I just took the car out to test everything out. Just normal driving the car is fine, but at WOT after about 50mph the whole car is basically trying to swerve side to side. Any ideas what the problem might be. Tires were set to 18psi cold and didn't warm them up. I have a drag racing event at an airstrip coming up so I am testing to get the car to hook on the street. Is this too low of air pressure for these tires?
Also, now this issue(taken from my thread in the Drag Section)
I swapped a set of Roush springs onto the car yesterday. Also running the set of Hoosier Drag Radials pictured above. I just took the car out to test everything out. Just normal driving the car is fine, but at WOT after about 50mph the whole car is basically trying to swerve side to side. Any ideas what the problem might be. Tires were set to 18psi cold and didn't warm them up. I have a drag racing event at an airstrip coming up so I am testing to get the car to hook on the street. Is this too low of air pressure for these tires?
JeremyH
3V Fuel Guru
In general radials need a higher pressure than bias ply. That's low for a radial imho. Is it swerving on its own or trying to follow the road?
JeremyH
3V Fuel Guru
I haven't seen much data on those dr's you have maybe someone who has used them can chime in. I went to dr's as well but went with mt radial pro's, going to the track Monday.
jodadejss06gt
TEAM DELETE SHIT
I have ET streets and have not had this issue. Don't know how similar the tires are. I've run 15psi at the track in them with no issues.
roberts
Senior Member
Hey josh what wastegate are u running and what spring in it? Also what BOV are u running. Im not sure uf i shoulf get ride of the on3 wastegate and bov with getting ready to making 700rwhp. Need some help or turn me to the right direction. thanks
Trying to figure out my warm start issues and rule out voltage as an issue, I just did numberous tests with my volt meter on the car.
1. Engine off/12+ and 12- studs on the firewall will 12.07volts.
2. Engine off/12+ stud and engine block for - are 12.07 volts.
3. Engine off/12+ and 12- on the battery in the trunk are 12.07 volts.
4. Engine running and all three above scenarios = 14.06volts
Relocation kit was done before last summer and none of the problems with the starting issue were there last year. Only engine mods done this year were the id1000s vs the frpp80s and the turbo hotside
1. Engine off/12+ and 12- studs on the firewall will 12.07volts.
2. Engine off/12+ stud and engine block for - are 12.07 volts.
3. Engine off/12+ and 12- on the battery in the trunk are 12.07 volts.
4. Engine running and all three above scenarios = 14.06volts
Relocation kit was done before last summer and none of the problems with the starting issue were there last year. Only engine mods done this year were the id1000s vs the frpp80s and the turbo hotside
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