Fuel's Winter Project: Build It Before It Blows

[Department Of Boost]

I agree 100% that a blower puts more stress on the crank than a turbo (duh). But, I think most crank snout/oil pump problems on blown cars is because most belt systems are set up so the tensioner bottoms. That shock load is a WHOLE lot higher than the loads it normally sees. Set the best system up not to bottom the tension and most of the problems go away.

 

[JoshK]

Had a big box of awesome show up yesterday from this guy^. Thanks again Jason, hopefully I can start the evap system delete this weekend and get the wiring for this new system all done.

 

[JoshK]

For those of you that deleted the AC, did you have someone pump out the Freon or how did you go about evacuating the system? Also, did you remove all the under-dash pieces as well?

 

[Department Of Boost]

My freon came out when I smashed the front of the car, LOL.

I haven't pulled the stuff out from under the dash. That should go on my list.

 

[JoshK]

Well that would work too I guess, lol. I am seriously considering fabing up my own forward facing turbo kit mocked after the JPC race setup. I want to run the stock manifolds flipped forward and run as large of a downpipe as I can where the ac is now taking up space. Should be easy to get a 4" downpipe through there. Still undecided on a turbo, but need to get that nailed down soon to start mocking some pipes up.

Here is the JPC race setup...

 

[weather man]

It's between the k member and motor that the 4" won't fit. Really have to oval it or use a Y connector to twin 3".

 

[Department Of Boost]

That would be sweet. But do you do about the belt though? The tensioner doesn't work with no A/C pulley (or idler) there. I removed my A/C pump but I have a FRPP thingamajobber there to act as a pulley. I would love to ditch that completely.

That JPC setup looks mean! Do that!!!

 

[Department Of Boost]

It's between the k member and motor that the 4" won't fit. Really have to oval it or use a Y connector to twin 3".

I had to go back and look at the pic, yeah, that would be an issue.

 

[weather man]

If there has to be a pulley there, my exhaust couldn't make the turn. He was under some time pressure, but he would have had a LOT of hours in trying to turn and ovalize. That is the nice part about doing it yourself Josh. If you spend a winter night trying things out, no harm.

As a side note, that fucking coolant splice has a slow drip that is driving me nuts!

 

[JoshK]

I will have to try some things and see what I can get to fit. A 3.5" would be okay to but might try a 4' oval pipe. There is quite a bit of room around my 3" downpipe running through there behind the ac compressor.



As far as the tensioner, could you put a smaller idler above the tensioner and run the belt the other way around that idler with a shorter belt. basically the belt would run between the idler and tensioner then? JPC has cars out there running the kit so there has to be a solution. Let me see if I can make a drawing of what I am talking about

 

[austinkli]

Wow! A lot of work has gone into this. Very very impressive!

 

[JoshK]

Here is a rough pic for the belt routing. The ps and alternator are not on the engine in this pic so I drew in the black circles to represent them.

 

[Department Of Boost]

With just the right length belt that would probably work. Nice.

It probably won't work for me though. I have to get the belt through/around the brackets for my 10 rib belt drive. I think if I ran it that way I would be going right through a mount. I will have to mock it all up and check at some point.

 

[JoshK]

Yeah, will the turbo I have just a few more options than you do I would guess hahaha

 

[roberts]

Forward facing headers would be awsome josh. May have u send me the drawi ng and may copy u if that's cool. Cause this on3 piping is about to go in the trash!!!

 

[one eyed willy]

I took measurements a few years ago, our timing cover has a lower set of holes so you can move the power steering pump down to make room, remove the A/C and your good to go. I like my A/C so I didn't do it. Would be real easy once the PS pump and A/C is out of the way.

 

[JoshK]

Yeah, in the jpc thread that I bumped in the pic and video section they show their kit on an engine with the PS pump moved down. I almost never use the ac and the car gets less than 1500 miles on it in a year so I am not worried about ditching it.

 

[JeremyH]

Some engineering info for you for backpressure, found out a good rule of thumb is to make the downpipe size 20-30% larger than the turbine wheel diameter. And then maintain that size for 20-30% of the length of the exhaust. Thus making 3" good for a 65-70mm turbine. Anything above 70mm and you will want a larger downpipe, so for 75mm I would do 3.5" and we are going to do a 4" down pipe for the 79mm turbine we have planned for the coyote. The thing to note is you don't have to maintain that larger downpipe size, just running the larger pipe for a few feet allows the hot exhaust gases leaving the turbine to expand and cool, as it cools it gets dense again which allows you to shrink the piping back down. This allows you to reduce backpressure and have a better power band.

So all you would really need to do for your current kit is you could run 3.5-4" pipe down from the turbo and then collapse it back down to 3" going over the K member.
A cutout somewhere helps too than way you can uncap when running high boost etc. JPC's coyote kit has an option for a cutout on the bottom of the downpipe for this reason as well.

The electric cutouts are nice but don't seem to be too reliable. Another idea is to get a cheap wastegate and put it on the down pipe. Then you can have the waste gate open at a certain boost level to relieve back pressure on the downpipe only at higher boost levels so If you didn't need it till over 10psi, but a 10lb spring in the gate and plumb a pressure source to it.

 

[JoshK]

I would also need to redo the up pipe just a little to move the turbo forward in the engine bay so it didn't hit the can cover. A forward facing kit will help keep my spool down when going to the larger turbo. That is great info Jeremy thank you for sharing that. I really wanna try a CT43-8079

 

[weather man]

Some engineering info for you for backpressure, found out a good rule of thumb is to make the downpipe size 20-30% larger than the turbine wheel diameter. And then maintain that size for 20-30% of the length of the exhaust. Thus making 3" good for a 65-70mm turbine. Anything above 70mm and you will want a larger downpipe, so for 75mm I would do 3.5" and we are going to do a 4" down pipe for the 79mm turbine we have planned for the coyote. The thing to note is you don't have to maintain that larger downpipe size, just running the larger pipe for a few feet allows the hot exhaust gases leaving the turbine to expand and cool, as it cools it gets dense again which allows you to shrink the piping back down. This allows you to reduce backpressure and have a better power band.

So all you would really need to do for your current kit is you could run 3.5-4" pipe down from the turbo and then collapse it back down to 3" going over the K member.
A cutout somewhere helps too than you can uncap when running high boost etc.

A guide only, as my kit had to be odd man out with that rule of thumb.