'Full' N/A Bolt On Dyno Sheet. 06 GT

NEMustang

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Agree. But not for the ego. Uncorrected ARE the numbers that car put down. Corrected are NOT the numbers the car put down. To me their validity are self explanatory.

I see your point for comparisons sake but not for what your car actually makes. Corrected was 349/309.

I had to compare it to my my last dyno tune since I got uncorrected from Tillman. So uncorrected vs uncorrected made more sense to me.
Get your run files (if you don't have them already). Tillman should have them. Most places keep a history of all runs. They should be able to provide you with the run file. If you have the run files, simply download download DynoJet's FREE WinPEP program to view your runs (if you haven't already done this...). I can view old runs vs new runs and show corrected vs uncorrected, overlay different runs, print runs, etc.

I guess the only way to compare your car is by using the same dyno. I try to use the same shop, as I know that I'll have a more accurate comparison. Then use any correction (SAE, STD, etc) and stick to it. Now you're comparing apples to apples as the correction factors adjust for air pressure, humidity, air temp...

What your car put down that day at that time is just what it put down, I agree.
That is what happened that day, how it compares to others is a whole different argument lol.

Uncorrected is what the car make on that day, with current conditions. Yes, it is better for saying my car can make 380 on a 50* day, but only 355 on an 80* day (just a made up example...no real math here). I meant no disrespect with the ego comment! Just saying that you really can't compare the number with another run before you made mods or another car unless you apply a correction....And what's with fdjizm's runs? If those two runs are from the same car without mods, someone's dyno is off...those numbers are both from dynojets with a 10% difference!!
 

2DaDarkZide PR

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Get your run files (if you don't have them already). Tillman should have them. Most places keep a history of all runs. They should be able to provide you with the run file. If you have the run files, simply download download DynoJet's FREE WinPEP program to view your runs (if you haven't already done this...). I can view old runs vs new runs and show corrected vs uncorrected, overlay different runs, print runs, etc.

I guess the only way to compare your car is by using the same dyno. I try to use the same shop, as I know that I'll have a more accurate comparison. Then use any correction (SAE, STD, etc) and stick to it. Now you're comparing apples to apples as the correction factors adjust for air pressure, humidity, air temp...



Uncorrected is what the car make on that day, with current conditions. Yes, it is better for saying my car can make 380 on a 50* day, but only 355 on an 80* day (just a made up example...no real math here). I meant no disrespect with the ego comment! Just saying that you really can't compare the number with another run before you made mods or another car unless you apply a correction....And what's with fdjizm's runs? If those two runs are from the same car without mods, someone's dyno is off...those numbers are both from dynojets with a 10% difference!!

No disrespect taken. I'm all for learning and discussion. I'm not the "sensitive" type lol.

But if correction factors can be altered, then as you said, only same shop would be best but since Tillman and MM use the same dyno, it was good enough for me. I wanted to correct idle surge and smoother delivery.

I'll get back to you guys after Friday if Fedex can FIND MY TIRES. They literally said "There is no way for us to get info on your delivery. Sorry, try tomorrow, if not report them lost with the vendor".
 

fdjizm

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You guys think a trap speed calculation is generally more accurate than any given dyno to compare cars?
 

coop6

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You guys think a trap speed calculation is generally more accurate than any given dyno to compare cars?

Not really I'm just more concerned about what a car traps than the dyno numbers. But that's just me. Your car is VERY impressive BTW.

I can't decide on getting a 2V and do full bolt ons and cams or a 3V. I had a full bolt on Mach 1 (well almost full bolt on).

Which has more potential? Both would be Auto.
 

2DaDarkZide PR

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Not really I'm just more concerned about what a car traps than the dyno numbers. But that's just me. Your car is VERY impressive BTW.

I can't decide on getting a 2V and do full bolt ons and cams or a 3V. I had a full bolt on Mach 1 (well almost full bolt on).

Which has more potential? Both would be Auto.

For true consistency an auto 3V id you're looking to drag regularly.

If you have my goal, of a fun, fast street car, go manual but isn't the Mach 1 4 valve? That would probably be a better platform for bolt ons.
 

coop6

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The 4V's are SOOO expensive to get cams and get them installed. I loved my cammed GTO. I'm wanting to go Cams Only plus full bolt ons and gear. I mainly want a quick street car. Something that will hang with the newer 5.0 (stockish form), New Camaro SS, SRT8 Challenger/Charger and so on. Not afraid to do a little weight reduction.

I think a can with good traction and 110-114 Trap could be hell on the streets, in Auto form. Not going 5 speed.

I think those goals are obtainable in either car, maybe even a 96-98 with PI swap and cams.
 

coop6

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I'm almost leaning towards the 3V. Just have to find the right deal in the right color. We will see, time will tell. Still love the SN95 though. I have some time!
 

coop6

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I've seen it done, but not as easy as with the s197. Thanks for showing me the light.
 

coop6

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Does full 3 inch exhaust work well on the 3v? I know the 4v loves it. What's the potential of a street able na 3v, cams, gears and bolt ons. Just trying to see their potential. Thanks!
 

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