GT550-S197 Coyote Stage I Manifold Kit

Discussion in 'Department Of Boost' started by Department Of Boost, Aug 27, 2015.

  1. Department Of Boost

    Department Of Boost Alpha Geek

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    Department Of Boost ​

    GT550-S197 Coyote Stage I Manifold Kit
    For 2011-2014 Coyote Mustangs




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    (Pictured with optional composite heat barrier)

    >>>>Before You Go Any Further<<<<





    Make 500-650 Rear Wheel Horsepower Using A Stock 2007-2012 GT500 Blower

    Make 500-850 Rear Wheel Horsepower Using A Stock 2013+2014 GT500 Blower

    Make 550-1400 Rear Wheel Horsepower When Used With Big Aftermarket GT500 Blowers


    The coolest running positive displacement supercharger system available. Which means you get more of your power, more of the time. 550hp with this kit is more HP than any other kit making 550hp


    Using the Department Of Boost GT550-S197 Stage I Manifold kit, a stock GT500 blower and a few customer supplied parts you can supercharge your 2011-2014 Mustang GT for far, far less money than any other option out there.

    Or

    Use the manifold as the jumping off point for a huge horsepower build!​



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    (Pictured with optional composite heat barrier)


    Features and Specifications:

    -Complete installation can be done for as little as $3900
    -Biggest/best flowing/ best cooling intercooler in the industry…..PERIOD!
    -Optional composite insulator available for EVEN LOWER intake air temps
    -Tested and proven
    -Best horsepower/ dollar ratio of any modification available for the Coyote
    -Uses OEM GT500 Roots Improved or TVS blower for cool running and bulletproof reliability
    -Or can be used with BIG screw blowers for insane levels of power
    -OEM drivability
    -Complete installation instructions available
    -Optional boost levels
    -Uses mostly OEM parts for unrivaled reliability and parts availability
    -As easy or easier to install than the other blower kits available for the 2011-2014 Mustang GT
    -NO fabrication necessary
    -Billet construction
    -O-ring sealing. No messy sealants/RTV’s
    -Easy intercooler fitting/port access


    Intake Air Temperatures:

    If you are new to forced induction you probably don’t understand the overwhelming factor that is intake air temperatures (IAT’s). This is a very complex subject, because this is an advertisement page and not a tech article we will keep it to the basics.

    When air is compressed (that’s what forced induction is), it heats up. Hot air is bad for two reasons. One, hot air is not as dense as cold air so hot air makes less power. Two, hot air is more likely to cause detonation (knock) and engine damage. To prevent this engine damage the cars computer (ECU) monitors the IAT’s and as they go up the ECU pulls back ignition timing to keep it safe. The problem is that less timing equals less power. So when you have higher IAT’s than you want you are losing power because the air is not as dense and losing power because the ECU is pulling ignition timing. How much power do you lose you ask? A LOT is the answer. On your normal average 80deg day driving around on the street it is more common than not for a 550hp car to be down 80-100hp. Yes, 80-100HP!

    IAT’s are the dirty little secret of the forced induction industry. Almost all blower/turbo manufacturers package their systems with the bare minimum. And that bare minimum means that most of the time you are driving your car you are not making the power it did on the dyno. Keeping IAT’s down on the dyno is easy. Keeping IAT’s down when you are driving your car around isn’t. It costs a lot of time and a lot of money to solve the IAT problem. And frankly until now no one has done it. This manifold represents the first time the IAT problem has been attacked head on by anyone.

    We have designed a manifold/intercooler package that is capable of removing up to four times the heat of ANY positive displacement manifold/intercooler offered by any other manufacturer.

    Bottom line. When using our package if you pull up next to another Coyote Mustang with the same dyno numbers as you, yours will be faster.


    The Manifold Kit Includes:

    -Billet aluminum intake manifold with integral intercooler
    -Billet aluminum idler pulley bracket
    -Billet aluminum idler pulley spacers
    -Billet aluminum fuel rail spacers
    -Billet aluminum quick change snout pulley and hub
    -Blower bypass relocation kit
    -Fasteners required to install the manifold and supercharger


    [​IMG]
    (Pictured with optional composite heat barrier)


    Optional Composite Heat Barrier:

    We offer an industry only option. Our composite heat barrier. Our composite heat barrier is part of the manifold (that part of the manifold is aluminum if the option is not taken). The manifold bolts directly to the cylinder heads. Cylinder heads are HOT. 200-235deg. Aluminum is a fantastic conductor of heat. The problem with bolting an aluminum intake manifold to 200+deg aluminum cylinder heads is that the intake manifold quickly heats up. That hot manifold in turn heats up the air inside it, which is your intake air…….that you want to keep cool. If at all possible you want to keep your IAT’s down below 100deg. That is nearly impossible when the “box” (the manifold) you are running them through is anywhere from 180-200deg. Our composite heat barrier is just that, a heat barrier. Heat has a very hard time passing through the composite material we chose. That means far far less heat is transferred to the body of the intake manifold, which means far far less heat is transferred to the intake air charge.

    That is not the only advantage though. The intercooler (all intercoolers as far as we know) are attached directly to the intake manifold. The manifold is aluminum, the intercooler is aluminum. The intercooler has cool water running through it, the manifold is hot. What ends up happening is that the intercooler uses some of its ability to extract heat to cool the body of the intake manifold. That is not the intercoolers job, its job is to cool the air coming out of the blower. If the intercooler is using its LIMITED ability to extract heat to cool the intake manifold body it’s not doing a very good of a job at what it’s supposed to be doing, and that is cooling the air coming out of the blower. Additionally if the intercooler is cooling the body of the intake manifold there will be more heat in the water. More heat in the water means that it will not do as good of a job cooling the intake air temps. In short, cooler water is better. And with the composite barrier the water in the intercooler system will always be cooler.

    At $230 the optional composite heat barrier is by far the best bang for your cooling buck you will ever spend. Period. You can’t spend $230 on your intercooler system anywhere and get the same performance advantage. Not even close.

    The only situation where the composite heat barrier may not pay for itself is if the car is a drag strip only car (only running for 15-20sec at a time) and running an ice chest/ice water through the intercooler.


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    (Pictured with optional composite heat barrier)


    What is needed to complete the installation:


    You, the customer will supply the rest of the parts to make the kit complete. In most cases there are lots of options (fuel injectors for instance). All of these parts are easily attainable and inexpensive. Some can be had used, some new. The list below represents a basic/easiest install and “matches” the instructions. It also matches the parts that come with the Stage III kit. You can go with different parts with different performance envelopes (blowers and heat exchangers for example) and build yourself a more aggressive kit if you want to. And if you really shop hard, have some friends that upgraded their GT500’s and will donate their take off parts, etc you can complete the kit for even less money.

    If you don’t want to shop for all of these parts we have Stage II and Stage III kits available with more to all of the parts included.


    Parts:


    Here is a detailed suggested parts list for your GT550-S197 Stage I & II kits. Of course there are LOTS of different parts combinations you can use. The parts in this list represent what we think is the easiest way to get the job done. We based this list off of the parts list we use for the Stage III kits which come with everything needed.

    Of course you can’t get all the parts from one place. What we did is listed them using as few suppliers as possible. And in cases like Summit or Amazon you get free shipping (on Summit orders over $100 and if you have Amazon Prime). A lot of the stuff on this list can also be had locally. We think this is the least expensive and easiest way to get all the parts.

    If you don’t want to use some of the suppliers listed simply fire the part number in google and you will get all sorts of options.


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    Optional PITA Parts:


    There are a lot of “little” parts needed to complete the kit. We offer what we call the PITA Parts Package. You will still source the bigger items yourself, but you can save yourself a lot of legwork and you will not have to go to as many vendors if you purchase the PITA Parts Package.

    The optional GT550-S197 PITA Parts Package is $500


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  2. Department Of Boost

    Department Of Boost Alpha Geek

    8,783
    7
    For more background and explanation of the minimum parts needed and your options see the list below.


    Supercharger/Throttle body/Cold Air kit:

    -Stock GT500 blower and elbow

    -Stock GT500 Throttle body

    -Stock throttle body electronics. Almost all take off GT500 throttle bodies do not have the electronics on them. They would have been used on the throttle body that was used in its place. So you will need the electronics. They can be purchased new, but that is not necessary. It just happens that most 2004-2010 Ford V8 trucks and Expeditions use the same throttle body electronics. They can be had on eBay for $65.

    -Roush Throttle body jumper harness #131114A595-AA. $65

    -Stock GT500 CAI and air filter (any GT500 CAI will work though). The 2010+ units work fantastic so they are the first choice.

    *****It is easy to overspend on the blower/TB/CAI. If you don’t already have one or can’t find one stupid cheap we have them for reasonable pricing in the Stage II & III kits*****


    Fuel System:

    -2013-2014 Stock 52lb/hr GT500 injectors. Almost any “Mustang” injector will work though as long as they are 52-80lb/hr and “short” or GT500 length. Used sets can be had for $125-150. New for $225.

    -Fuel pump wire upgrade kit, S&H Performance. This is not absolutely necessary but it is nice for the piece of mind. You could also make one yourself. The wire upgrade kit simply adds a relay and larger gauge wire to the fuel pump. $39


    Belt System:

    -Gates 76mm idler pulley #38006 x2. New $32

    -Dayco ribbed idler pulley #89015. New $14

    -Gates 82” serpentine belt #K060820. New $22.75

    -Dayco Belt tensioner #89444. New $65


    New Parts/Sensors/Gaskets/etc:

    -Stock GT500 blower gasket/o-ring #7R3Z-9H486-AA. New $62

    -Stock GT500 intake air temp sensor #9C1Z-12A697-B. New $14

    -Roush IAT sensor plug/pigtail #131112A690-BB. $14


    Supercharger Cooling/Intercooler System:

    This section will be more complex and have a lot more options.

    The intercooler system (IC) is just that, a system. The manifold has by far the best IC in the business already in it. But the IC is only part of the system. If you put the rest of the system together with entry level components (which is what comes with all other kits) you will get entry level results. You will get better results than you would with anyone else’s IC, but to take full advantage of the IC’s capabilities you will want to go with something other than ”entry level”. And the difference in performance between “entry level” and “maxed out” is tremendous.

    Entry Level System:

    -Heat exchanger. You can use pretty much any S197 heat exchanger (HE). Stock GT500 HE’s are a popular choice. HE’s can be had for as little as $45 and as much as $1000.

    -Water Pump. You can use pretty much any water pump. Most kits use the same pump though, or a variant of it. The same pump is used on the GT500’s. It is the basic Bosch pump that is used everywhere for everything. If you go with one off of a GT500 you will get a nifty bracket/mount with it though. The GT500 Bosch pump brand new is $125.

    -Degass bottle. Nothing fancy needed here. Stock GT500 degass bottles work great and bolt right up. They can be had for $10.

    -There are other parts to the system like hoses, clamps, a relay, etc. Details on these can be found in the detailed parts list linked above.


    Advanced System:

    There are going to be a lot of options if you want to build a top shelf IC system. But generally it’s going to come down to what you want to spend. There are some deals out there on take off stuff, but for the most part you will be buying new. Here are a few basics “truths” about IC system components:

    -Heat Exchanger. The bigger the better, it’s as simple as that. There is a lot of “dual pass this” and “triple pass” that out there. Yes, to a small degree that stuff will make a difference. But that the end of the day go big or go home.

    -Fans. Some heat exchangers come with fans. For the most part they are an advantage. But fans don’t do you any good over 45-50mph so depending on your driving habits they may not be worth it for you. A negative to fans on some heat exchangers is that to make room for them the size of the heat exchanger has to be smaller. There are a couple of large heat exchangers out there and they are bigger because they don’t leave room for fans.

    -Water Pump. Water pumps are something to be careful with. In most cases the pumps advertised flow rating is nowhere near factual. We have tested just about every pump out there to see what they actually flow under multiple conditions/combinations. As far as we know we are the only ones who have ever done this. What you choose for a water pump will be determined on what your goals are, how the rest of the system is set up and your budget. We can help you with choosing the right pump for you.

    -Hose/Line size. Hose size is CRITICAL to maximum performance. As far as we know every system out there is .75” or smaller. And .75" can be made to work fairly well. But for absolute maximum performance larger hoses need to be used. We designed our IC around the use of hoses up to 1.25”. No other IC is. To use 1.25” hoses you will be going for a full commitment and to a certain degree “custom”. We will be happy to help you with a good combination if you want to “go big”.

    -Degas Bottle. There are all sorts of large capacity degas bottles out there. Some of them, a lot of them, are bigger than “stock” and are being sold as a performance improvement. This is 100% false. Your system will not run any cooler with a large capacity degas bottle. You will simply be hauling around more warm water.

    -Ice Chest. This is not at the top of the things that you want to mess with on a street car, but drag race or street/strip cars can benefit a lot from one. If you want to do a ice chest contact us and we will work on a combination with you.


    Intercooler System Summary:

    In short when it comes to the IC system you are going to pay to play. This is true for everyone. Every blower kit being sold comes with entry level components. GT500’s come with entry level components. If you take a look around there is a huge market in aftermarket IC system parts. That is for a reason. The stuff you get with almost all blower kits and stock cars is entry level at best. And sometimes completely ineffective.

    With the GT550 Stage I you have the option of “going big” right from the start. If you get another blower kit or get a GT500 you pay for the entry level stuff, and then spend more money replacing components to make it better. But, if you throw all of the best components available at another blower kit or a GT500 it will not perform nearly as well as well as they will when paired with our kit. When you buy another blower kit you are stuck with the supplied IC. It cannot be changed, modified or replaced. The IC is the foundation or “core” of the IC system. If you use ours you can build yourself a system this will outperform anything else out there………by a massive margin. If you use another manufacturers kit/manifold/IC you are going to be stuck with less performance no matter how much money you throw at it.

    If you have any questions about system design and setup please feel free to contact us.


    Supplies For Making Water/Electrical Connections, etc. Pricing below is for new stuff:

    -See detailed list above


    2011-early build 2012 cars Only:


    -The front timing/cam chain cover on 2011 and early build 2012 cars will not work with the belt system without modification. You can modify your stock one with it still on the car with a grinder/file/etc. Or you can buy an updated front cover from the dealer for about $100 and swap them out.

    This is a 2011-early build 2012 front cover (below). If yours looks like this it needs to be modified or replaced. The difference between the front covers is the ribbing on the left hand side.

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    This is the later release front cover (below). If you have one of these you’re good to go.

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    Installation and Tech Support:

    Complete installation instructions will be available.

    In addition to that there is Department Of Boost staff which is effectively available through email 24/7/365. We may not be available on a Monday morning at 10am (we probably will be though). But we are checking emails all day and late into the night most days. It’s fair to say your chances of contacting us and getting an answer, the right answer, is better than your chances with any other supplier. You will never get in contact with the other suppliers on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon for example.


    Tuning:

    Any tuner that can tune a blown Coyote can tune this combo. Because it uses mostly OEM parts it is very simple. You can go to your local dyno and have it tuned. Or you can have it remotely tuned by Lund Racing. Remote tuning is a process where you drive the car while doing specific tests outlined by Lund Racing. You email them the data from those tests. They review the results, make tuning changes if needed and they email you back a revised tune. The process is straight forward and easy. It also saves you from having to trailer the car somewhere to get tuned and work around the dyno operators schedule. And in most cases remote tuning is less expensive. When you are done remote tuning you can take it on a dyno to see what it makes for power. But these days that isn’t 100% necessary. A lot of people, including a lot of people with very fast cars do not go to the dyno anymore. Visit Lund Racings web page for more details.

    http://www.lundracing.com/


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    (Pictured installed on 2015 S550)


    Pricing/Group Buy:

    -The retail price of the GT550-S197 Stage I is $2495.

    -The limited time Group Buy price for the GT550-S197 Stage I is $2245 (plus shipping).


    Pricing/Group Buy/Options:

    -The retail price of the optional composite heat barrier is $230.

    -The limited time group buy price for the optional composite heat barrier is $200.

    -The price for the GT550-S197 PITA Parts Package is $500 (Group Buy or not).


    Group Buy Structure And Timeline:

    Because we are still a very small company and manufacturing is incredibly expensive we can’t make a run of these kits, put them on the shelf and wait for them to sell. So a group buy it is. This gives us the opportunity to make a larger run, keep costs lower, and pass that savings on to you, the customer.

    So here is how the group buy works:

    -The group buy will be open for 60 days. Opening 8/21/15 and closing 11/30/15.

    -During this time we will be taking $1500 deposits.

    -These deposits are non refundable for any reason other than we don’t produce the kits.

    -The deposits have to be paid with a check, money order, cashiers check or bank to bank transfer. We can’t accept PayPal because according to PayPal we have to deliver orders within 21 days of payment. We got “busted” on this and they have been watching us like a hawk ever since. We do all of our group buys using the above payment methods.

    -The balance is due before your kit ships to you.

    -On 10/21/15 we will close the group buy and start production. Production should take about 30 days.

    -Shipping of the kits will begin on or about 1/7/16.


    Bonus Round. Do You Want One For Even Less Money?!!!

    If 30+ people sign up for the group buy we can knock an additional $100 off the price. This is where you the customer can help. We can’t afford to sponsor every forum or buy ads all over the place. You the customer can help us get to that 30 unit goal by advertising for us. Facebook it, Tweet it, post something about it on a forum, send smoke signals, etc. Your help can get you a lower price. How is that for a deal?!


    Super Bonus Round! Do You Want A Blower Kit For Even Less Money And A Free install?!?!?!

    We have only done the install of this on a (S550) 2015 Mustang. It is almost identical to the install on a S197 but we would like to do one on a S197 so we can use it to work out small details and take the opportunity to create instructions from it (pictures etc). We could use our 2012 GT for the install, but we have plenty of blown cars and we want to keep that one NA. And one of our wives drives it most of the time, and she doesn’t need or want a blower. So this can be a really good deal for someone.

    Here is the deal. We would need your car for 2-3 weeks. We’re not exactly sure what we will run into when we’re doing the install so we don't want to put a real tight timeline on it. It should only take us a few days.......but, we have learned not to count our chickens an all that. We can't afford to give you a kit for free. At that point we would just use our own car. What we can do is give you an incredible deal.

    $3900 for a GT550-S197 Stage III kit….. installation INCLUDED!!!

    -If you have a tuner (SCT, etc) we will give it back to you tuned for an additional $250.

    -If you don’t have a tuner we will give it back to you with a new nGauge Tuner and tuned for an additional $600.

    -Or you can get tuning done yourself.

    The above price is for your standard Stage III kit that will get you components (heat exchanger, water pump, lines, etc) on par with the other blower kits available on the market. If you want a upgraded heat exchanger, pump, lines, etc that is not a problem. We will of course have to charge more, but you will again be getting a smoking deal.

    If you are interested in this offer please send us an email at [email protected].
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2015