Than the brake caliper piston area must stay the same? So instead of 2 big, 4 small pistons?Theoretically no. Larger volume but more fluid. Still can only compress a liquid so much with the spacing in the lines, etc. Good thought though
Than the brake caliper piston area must stay the same? So instead of 2 big, 4 small pistons?Theoretically no. Larger volume but more fluid. Still can only compress a liquid so much with the spacing in the lines, etc. Good thought though
Where did the air go?We learnt when I was serving my apprenticeship many years ago, that if we had problems bleeding brakes you pushed the pedal as hard as possible and wedged the pedal with something under the dash 'piece of wood or tube' leave it overnight and the next day it would be fine. Disconnect battery to stop brake lights staying on. I still do it today with success
Be careful here. You still have to move those pistons enough to take up the running pad to rotor clearances and any pad compressibility, and a larger total piston area will need more fluid in order to do this. Ultimately, this means you get a slightly longer pedal using the same MC.Theoretically no. Larger volume but more fluid. Still can only compress a liquid so much with the spacing in the lines, etc. Good thought though
The obvious question here is "which Hawk pads?". The knee-jerk answer - if they're the "regular" HPS or Perf Ceramics, initial bite is nothing to be writing home about no matter what you do. If your Fiesta brakes throw even a little brake dust, chances are they're higher up the brake performance food chain than either of those Hawk compounds.I just know the pedal is not near as touchy/sensitive as my daily driver (a 17 Fiesta ST). That might be a function of 2008 vs. 2017 technology though.
Quite possibly, since initial contact doesn't start doing much right away.They are the ceramics, so maybe that’s part of it.
Absolutely, I did. To the letter as instructed by Hawk.I don't remember feeling any kind of grinding when I ran drilled/slotted rotors in the past. On either car. Did you bed the brakes?
Do you recall how long it took?My slotted rotors initially felt that way but it eventually went away.
Be careful here. You still have to move those pistons enough to take up the running pad to rotor clearances and any pad compressibility, and a larger total piston area will need more fluid in order to do this. Ultimately, this means you get a slightly longer pedal using the same MC.
Norm
Do you get this long travel with the car just sitting there or is it after driving it a bit?So I finally found a shop that has the Ford IDS and they were able to get pedal higher for initial braking.
Brakes work very good, but still very high travel (overall) and can still push brakes all the way down to some mechanical stop. Tempted to put PP S550 MC back on and have them re-bleed, but for now just going to enjoy it for the summer.
Do you get this long travel with the car just sitting there or is it after driving it a bit?
If driving it is involved, the problem could be with one or more wheel bearings. The play that happens will cause pad knock-back during driving (and especially during cornering or over rough roads).
Norm