Hood Painting Cost

[scramblr]

To explain my expectations, I do my own paint correction and since the care is not a DD, the paint is immaculate. The car was painted 2 years ago, so I knew the hood paint was not going to match perfectly. Which it does not, the hood is a bit lighter. But for $550, it was worth taking the chance having Cervini paint it.

Install was easy. Only had to loosen and shift it once so the hood mechanism would catch/lock. Didn't have to mess with the fenders. Also using Cervini struts.

The hood was packaged well, however, the plastic cover used to protect the paint left a residue on the hood...one that washing nor waxing would take away. Kinda like pulling scotch tape off glass and you can see where it was, but can't feel the residue...it was like part of the paint.

Called Cervini and they said leave it in the sun a couple of days to "cook" that off. That wasn't happening since it's already on the car. They said to send them some pics and they'll see what the paint shop recommended. I asked about polishing and they said it should be O.K., but normally they recommend to wait 60 days (nowhere does it say that on their site).

So knowing I don't want the hood looking like that I skipped sending them pics and did a 1 step polish with a soft compound which didn't help. So I said screw it and did a two step polish with some medium compound. That did the trick...however, I've never polished fiberglass, so I don't know what to expect. The paint is not clear like I want it. The aluminum panels on the car are like glass. So I need to do some homework to see how to get the hood the same way. (last two pics)

All in all I think the issue with the paint had to do with the packaging. Maybe letting sit out would help. But since I can polish it, it's not that big of a deal and for $550 it's worth it to me.


Hood Cover



Residue on paint



Residue on paint



Fender paint like glass



Hood paint hazy after polish

 

[Aerofinz]

I agree with Cervini, best thing you can do is not touch it with anything beyond mild soap and water for a minimum of 30 days and let the car sit out on sunny days to cure the paint. Unless it was baked in a paint booth oven, it's not yet cured. I wouldn't touch it with anything else, don't apply wax, don't cut/buff/sand/polish anymore until it's had proper cure time. The paint is soft and can be "moved" until it's properly cured if not handled properly, as witnessed by the protective wrap. Don't sweat what you've already done, but I personally wouldn't do anymore for 30-60 days.

Good luck!

 

[scramblr]

Good information, thank you. So can I expect any changes to it over the next month or two? Is it still "soft" which is why I didn't get a good polish? I did put Glaze and Wax after polishing, should I take it off?

 

[Aerofinz]

Good information, thank you. So can I expect any changes to it over the next month or two? Is it still "soft" which is why I didn't get a good polish? I did put Glaze and Wax after polishing, should I take it off?

Best scenario, water only for a month or two, soap sparingly (with no added wax/silicone protection). No power sprayer, no sap, bird droppings, wet leaves allowed to dry on the surface, etc.

Anything that would strip the wax/polish would likely be stronger on new paint than the wax itself. At this point probably best to let it go for a couple months. The wax probably won't due any noticeable harm/damage, but may delay the full curing process as the paint is trapped and not able to "gas" as well during the curing process. Note on parking outside, don't seek out every hour of sun or the hottest days. Sparingly in the sun here/there is generally considered to assist the curing process, but without full protection during the curing, excessive heat/sun isn't ideal either.

You may find the paint to "cut" better after cured and allow for a harder surface to buff to a smoother shine. Think of the paint now as a hard rubber surface vs. a hard glass surface when cured. Sand paper drags over a rubber surface and means the paint can "move", cured it cleanly cuts and removes a fine layer.

DO NOT FRET IT! You're good. Paint is extremely durable and much more protected with the added clear layers. This is the best case recommendation for car nuts like us. Approaching overkill. Similar to changing oil ever 3,000 miles with synthetic, it's the overkill we do. Let it be until Memorial day only spraying it off lightly with water then take another pass at it.

 

[scramblr]

@Aerofinz

Thank you again for the information. You explained it very clearly and for someone that knows nothing about this, it makes sense. I'll be patient and won't mess with it until the end of May.

 

[Aerofinz]

Only other add, document and follow what Cervini suggests, I'd suggest the "less is more" approach. If you polish it after waiting 60 days and still aren't satisfied, that's what I'd tell them. It's never going to make sense to ship back at your cost so unless they graciously say "sure, send back on our dime we'll try again" (guessing doubtful), your best bet might be a credit of some sort. I have no direct experience with them so can't speak to expectations. Nor am I suggesting it looks bad. FWIW.

And thanks for your service!

 

[scramblr]

Appreciate you and you're welcome! I'm happy with the hood...just anal about appearance. I'd say most people wouldn't even be concerned on how it looks. Worst-case scenario I can always have it re-painted. I would not consider shipping it back over what it cost to paint it.

 

[Aerofinz]

It absolutely does look good! And I understand. Wait til you get your first chip, LOL!

 

[scramblr]

Wait til you get your first chip, LOL!

Shut your mouth!!!!!!!