The problem with the traction lok..and any similar versions..is you still have the CF clutch plates that will eventually wear out. Rebuild kit is $100..then a lot of time and effort ( and $$ if somebody else is doing the work). Why bother? The eaton tru trac is zero maintenance..and uses no CF clutch plates, and has no wear items.
Sure u can get traction loks with 200-800lb springs in em for greater preload.... great for drag racing..but semi useless for going around corners.
IMO, the only differentials that are any good are the $1000.00 Torsen T2 (used in the 13-14 GT-500 as an option..and also an option on the boss cars) and the eaton tru trac (aprx $425 - $525).
Beware, there is a cheaper... $500 version of the T2..also called a T2. ( u will trash it if drag racing). There is also a T2R version, aprx $750... that has a 4:1 bias ratio.... great for auto cross..where u do 180 deg turns, but again will be trashed if drag racing.
Roush used a tru-trac on its 700 hp car at the oct 2012 sema show, the eaton tru trac is tried and proven. It and the torsen use helical gears instead of carbon fiber clutch plates.
The tru trac has a 3:1 bias ratio. The tq can vary up to a 3:1 or 1:3 ratio as required. IE: say 400 ft lbs of tq on the DS. U could have up to a max of 300 ft lbs on left side..and 100 ft lbs on right side ..or vice versa. (Normal traction loks are 1:1 ratio. )
If one side has slightly less traction than the other side, the tru trac will silently move more of the tq to the wheel with the greater traction. Now that works great for drag racing, road racing, auto cross, street use, and in the rain. Or in cases where the right side is on gravel..and the left side is on asphalt.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZmsY2YvVsc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqDf5DxOnAI
Jimbo