Hot Rear Brakes

xeninworx

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Or inspect your brakes more often. Every time I change my winter wheels to summer wheels and vice versa I check the brakes and suspension.
 

dark steed

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The only way to wear a pad at a 45° angle is for it to be put in the caliper at a 45° angle


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stevbd

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Obvious question but was the piston retracted all the way back in when installing the pads, and was the piston rotated correctly so the nubs on the brake pad line up with the cavities on the piston?

It's easy to do with the proper tool but a pita without.

It seems unlikely you have two defective calipers. I suspect improper pad install.

And taking the caliper apart to clean and lube the sliders is super easy. 5 minutes per side, tops. It should be done at every brake pad change.
 

Juice

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I see two separate issues.
1 sticking caliper not retracting when releasing the brakes, pads dragging= hot brakes.
2 uneven pad wear. I had this happen on my front Cobra brakes on the fox body. There was crap stuck to the caliper causing uneven pressure and crooked wear on the pads/rotors.
 

LarryJM

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The bottom line. I took everything to the scrap yard. It was 120 lbs worth of old parts and new parts and I got $12. Case closed and I move on. Everything is working now although I might have some air in the line. I will give it a few weeks. In the mean time I will research brake fluid. I had a brake flush with Dot 4 last March. Most likely NAPA DOT4. Maybe I will do it again but might use a better fluid. Any Recommendations?

The reason I think it was sticking brakes on both sides is, I notice now the car backs out of the garage on it's own. The Calipers were 7 years old and now I have new Power Stops. Might order a complete set front and back as backups on Amazon for under $250.

DSC_0349.JPG
 
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Juice

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Synthetic dot 4. I think I got Valvoline last time at wally world when I did front calipers. Any synthetic dot 4 really.
 

LarryJM

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I will work with that and look into Valvoline.
 

MasterofDisaster

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Obvious question but was the piston retracted all the way back in when installing the pads, and was the piston rotated correctly so the nubs on the brake pad line up with the cavities on the piston?

It's easy to do with the proper tool but a pita without.

It seems unlikely you have two defective calipers. I suspect improper pad install.

And taking the caliper apart to clean and lube the sliders is super easy. 5 minutes per side, tops. It should be done at every brake pad change.
I think you're right, stevbd. The pin on the pad out of alignment with the piston notch is the most likely thing that would make the pad contact the rotor at an angle.
Concur also on the necessity of cleaning the sliders & slider holes and re-lubing.
 

LarryJM

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Since I got new Power Stop rear calipers on Amazon for $50 each no core charge, the fact the installer might have screwed up is water over the dam. His boss installed the new ones with a new rust protected rotors and new pads. Now I have more peddle travel then I wish. For sure all 4 brakes are cool when driving for a mile or so with no drag. I need to take it in again for another brake bleed today. I have heard you can get more brake travel with 10 moving pistons vis 6 with the Base Brakes. A little air will also cause that. With the back pads pin not seated or stuck calipers, my brake peddle travel was good but the rear brakes were dragging.
 
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LarryJM

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Did have air in the lines which resulted in a one inch drop in brake peddle. So now finally everything seems to be working as it should.
 

Sky Render

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Are you using the actual Ford GT500 brackets that require removing the axles to install, or are you using those chintzy eBay brackets that just space the caliper out farther?
 

LarryJM

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Chintzy Ebay Brackets made in NC. Since the backs only take about 30% of the braking, I do not see a problem. Anyone who has a motorcycle knows that. Besides, I really didn't want to fool with the axles. Also farther out is 1 inch on a side from 11.8 to 13.8. The back rotors are just slightly less then the fronts of 14 inches. It took three tries to get this right which is typical of my car modification work. I did see a 650 BMW there with Achilles Tires. That's next.
 
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Sky Render

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Chintzy Ebay Brackets made in NC. Since the backs only take about 30% of the braking, I do not see a problem. Anyone who has a motorcycle knows that. Besides, I really didn't want to fool with the axles. Also farther out is 1 inch on a side from 11.8 to 13.8. The back rotors are just slightly less then the fronts of 14 inches. It took three tries to get this right which is typical of my car modification work. I did see a 650 BMW there with Achilles Tires. That's next.

Those brackets are probably why your rear brakes are not applying evenly. There's a reason the factory GT500 uses stouter brackets that bolt to the axle tube: they do not flex nearly as much.
 

LarryJM

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It does seem to be working now. I am more worried about the 20mm spacers up front.

brake5a.jpg
 

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