hot rod cammed 06 gt....drove me to work fine, went to leave, its flooded?? help

[torchred]

Ok I don't understand how a fuel injection car gets flooded, but I went to leave work just now and when I went to start it, I didn't crank it just quite long enough to catch so it studdered but didn't start. Now no matter what I do it won't start and I'm stuck at work. The tail pipes smell like pure fuel. How the f*** do I get this damn thing unflooded? I tried putting my foot to the floor and cranking but it just cranks and cranks and nothing, not even a slight hint of starting.

 

[stkjock]

Did u check the intake and MAF? Make sure they all the fittings and connections are snug?

 

[weather man]

Your plugs are wet and your tune needs fine tuning (maybe). If you install a new set at work, have someone jump you when you try and restart. Your battery could be getting weak, so check the alternator also.

 

[torchred]

How long do i wait and will they dry out or are they permanently ruined? Its been sitting for an hour and wont even come close to starting.

 

[weather man]

How long do i wait and will they dry out or are they permanently ruined? Its been sitting for an hour and wont even come close to starting.

They will not dry in the motor. You need to install a new set. After they are out, you can clean and dry them. Depending on the mileage on them, might be trash can time.

If a weak battery/alternator, a jump might have a small chance of getting you going.

 

[hammeron]

check the inertia fuel cutoff switch, driver area left leg panel.

 

[torchred]

Tow truck is here. Fml

 

[torchred]

They will not dry in the motor. You need to install a new set. After they are out, you can clean and dry them. Depending on the mileage on them, might be trash can time.

If a weak battery/alternator, a jump might have a small chance of getting you going.

New battery and new alternator and it spins over super fast. Tail pipes smell like pure fuel

 

[weather man]

New battery and new alternator and it spins over super fast. Tail pipes smell like pure fuel

Plugs may be to wet to fire.

Looks like a tow tonight.

 

[408Stang]

Several things
1. Tune needs to be changed. Sounds like the injector parameters are wrong.
2. Pull the plugs and let them dry or replace them
2a. If you're still stuck at work... Pull all the fuel injector plugs and crank the engine over for a bit to try and dry out the plugs. Then reconnect the injectors and try again.
3. Full charge on the battery or jump start to make sure the coils can fire.
4. Check for codes... Could be a TB issue.

 

[JeremyH]

Unplug the maf and start the car with the gas to to the floor and it should start enough to clear the fuel out.

 

[Phil1098]

Once the plugs get wet, it's over. Many years ago I worked at a Saab dealership and in the winter there was a very specific way to start them. You had to hold the key in the start position and crank it til it fired. On those damn cars if it didn't start, the key wouldn't engage the starter again til it went back to zero. At that point the computer said " it's cold out we need a bunch of gas here". If the gods were with you it would still start on the second attempt, but most times it was crank no fire and push a brand new car into the shop to take out the plugs. Once dry, ran like a dream.

 

[torchred]

So of course I get it towed all the way home, perform a balancing act maneuvering the car into my garage from the flat bed (I have a steep driveway), and as soon as I get it into the garage......fires up on first crank. WTF! Should I still swap the plugs? I was too afraid to drive it to work today so I drove my beater F150 (which is NOT very reliable but I'd hate to tow my mustang twice in two days). Main reason I'm afraid to swap the plugs is all the horror stories about the plugs breaking off in the heads on 3V motors.

 

[stkjock]

cheap insurance to swap the plugs.

how many miles on them?

if you do the procedure right they will come out fine. there's a write up for the procedure on the site.

 

[408Stang]

I've never had a problem removing plugs by using an impact gun... Seriously.... Works every time and I've never broken one. Just did it recently on a 170,000 mile F150 and on a 90,000 mile Explorer. Just blip the impact gun a few times, make sure the extension stays as straight as possible and keep backing them out.. Blipping the impact gun until they break loose. If one is very stuck you might have to hit the impact for a little bit... More than just a blip.... kind of like taking a lug nut off.

The Ford procedure of soaking... Working them back and forth, soaking some more, etc... Works too... It just takes a while.

Once those plugs are out definitely try to clean the threads and the tube part deep in the head. I have a wire brush with a long handle that I got at Harbor Freight... Works great.. Just be gentle and clean the brush off often so as little stuff as possible gets into the cylinder.

When you replace the plugs go with some nice, one-piece, and easily gap-able ones like Brisk Racing Silver or Accel Silvers. And don't forget to use some anti-seize... NOT ON THE THREADS. But on the neck part that sticks down in the head... This is where it gets stuck... Not the threads... The threads are your ground contact for spark so you want a good connection there.

And have someone check that tune ASAP. Or go with Brenspeed or JDM Engineering for your tune.

 

[Phil1098]

Not the threads... The threads are your ground contact for spark so you want a good connection there.

I put a little smear of anti-seize on my plug threads. I have for 35 years when a plug goes into an aluminum head. What is the grounding difference between a regular plug vs a two piece long plug? I have never ever one time had a misfire or a grounding issue ever. I have seen plugs without anti-seize gall in an aluminum head and just peel the threads out of the head though. Yes the extension is critical to also have anti-seize on it, but a light coat on the plug threads hurts nothing.

 

[408Stang]

Modern plugs have a nickel plating on them to help prevent seizing and galling in the aluminum head. ... Back in the day, or on cheaper plugs the thread portion is mild steel (black in color) and more susceptible to seizing / galling.

I too have put anti seize on the plug threads... But it's not ideal.