So what parts were thinned out to make the UPR lighter? Something had to be made thinner to make it lighter.Math doesn't add up on the BMR side.....
I'm not the confused one sweetheart. In fact I said I wasn't sure. You on the other hand were mouthing off again when you didn't know there was a difference for the '13.A simple search would have cleared his own confusion. You can spin that whichever way you want.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-pro-series-chrome-moly-k-member-11.html
Please explain. What made you think I thought the driveshaft was a slip yoke? Keep grabbing at straws though. It's all that makes you think you're relevant around here.Lol! You got caught with your pants down. Greased any slip yokes on a stock 2011+ 5.0 Mustang driveshaft lately?
I'm not the confused one sweetheart. In fact I said I wasn't sure. You on the other hand were mouthing off again when you didn't know there was a difference for the '13.
My stock k-member weighed in at 48lbs. The UPR piece weighed in at 22lbs. 26lbs. weight savings.
BMR claims a 27lbs. weight for an 18lbs. total savings.
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1043
Math doesn't add up on the BMR side.....

Which company makes the crossmember with the a arm mounts .750" up so when you drop it you can get the arms flat again?
BTW CPR...you asked about the weight difference between UPR/BMR....would you not agree that chrome aloy is lighter than mild steel hence the weight difference?
Even the 14 takes exactly the same OEM part number for the engine crossmember that the 11 does. Hell even the older cars get the 11-up part now if you order one.

UPR is lighter. That alone is enough to stay away from the mild steel BMR piece.
wbt, you never answered my direct question.
Are you telling the forum members that the lightest parts are always better?
I am asking due to this comment:
So what parts were thinned out to make the UPR lighter? Something had to be made thinner to make it lighter.
I'm not the confused one sweetheart. In fact I said I wasn't sure. You on the other hand were mouthing off again when you didn't know there was a difference for the '13.
...is misleading.CPRsm said:BMR and I might be the only makers for '13 kmembers.
CPRsm said:Please explain. What made you think I thought the driveshaft was a slip yoke? Keep grabbing at straws though. It's all that makes you think you're relevant around here.
Yeah, we definitely need to revise those numbers on our web-site, for both the stock K and the BMR part. Thanks for the heads up.
I just weighed one, 3 minutes ago, and ours weighs in at 24.8lbs.
BMR Tech said:He knows that.![]()
wbt, you never answered my direct question.
Are you telling the forum members that the lightest parts are always better?
I am asking due to this comment:
Again, thank you for the heads up on the weights on our site.
Many reasons people go with a tubular k-member, one of the important factors is weight. For those of us putting our pigs on a diet every bit helps. I have your kmember, arms, and radiator support on my car which are all nice, would have been nicer if even more weight savings came along with them though![]()
Only after you clarified his statement for him.
I am not buying a part because of a name.

BMR Tech said:Yeah, we definitely need to revise those numbers on our web-site, for both the stock K and the BMR part. Thanks for the heads up.
I just weighed one, 3 minutes ago, and ours weighs in at 24.8lbs.
Sorry about that! Here ya go:
(2011+) The KM018 and KM020 weigh 24.8lbs. This is without the hardware package.
(2005-2010) The KM010 and KM011 weigh in at 23.7lbs. This is without the hardware package.
I also forgot to mention, the 24.8 and 23.7 were obtained with the 1/4" thick corner pieces that we put on the K-Member to protect it during shipping.
wbt, since you claim the stock K is 48 and UPR claims 44, and BMR claims 45.........can you please confirm the weight of the UPR piece, alone, without any hardware?




Well no shit. It's called a superseding part number. And no one was talking about OEM kmembers. We were talking about aftermarket TUBULAR. Still with me? At no point did I say 11 was different than 13. Tweedle dee and dweedle dum at it again.You must talk just to hear yourself talk. Even the 14 takes exactly the same OEM part number for the engine crossmember that the 11 does. Hell even the older cars get the 11-up part now if you order one.
I didn't say the '13's were different than the '11's, that was your ASSumption. I've built more than you've installed son. Sure I know the exact differences. However, I wasn't sure UPR had time to re-copy BMR for the '11+. That annotation a little easier for you to understand?You really are dense. I expect more from a vendor. Like I said before, there is no difference from 2011-2014. Your statement of:
...is misleading.
Now you're just acting dumb on purpose. How did I miss the material contruction when I acknowledged it and asked you how it was lighter? Again, where did they thin it out? You duck the question but I missed the material? You're just off in you're own little world huh? Lol Just let us know when you run out of crayons.I suppose you missed the material each is made from and that was a simple oversight as well...
I know exactly what you were referring to. I asked you to explain. Do you not understand the difference? But I think you better read it again sweatheart. Please read and post where "I" thought there were was a slip yoke. I just start to feel sorry for you when all you can do is grab at straws. I think you'll find Shaun thought there was a slip yoke. I agreed lubing a driveshaft could help any odd noises since I have done it before. Any and all driveshafts need lube since they all plunge. And you can most certainly grease a stock unit.You know exactly what I am referencing.
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101984
More blind leading the blind.
You missed my point. Out of all those kmembers how many of them looked identical to BMR? I brought them up because you said there are only so many ways to do it. Yet they all did it different in all the years you listed they had parts. UPR's '13 kmember is a modifed copy of BMR's 05-10. So you have UPR and BMR which are all but identical for 05-10 but every company you mentioned has a different design except them. That was the point.CPR-since you mentioned them I went and looked at AJE/Racecraft; I do not see a K member for the 11-13's from AJE, they say 05 and up which we all know are not a universal fit after 2010. Racecraft lists the same thing, 05-11 which again is not correct as the 05-10 will not work with the 11+.
Yup, looked right past it. When discussing the two companies, one copying the other is kind of a point that needs to be brought up. Some people like myself prefer not to buy the knock offs out of pure principle. Maybe that's something he might want to know. Maybe S&H will feel differently after finishing their own turbo kits to have China knock it off. I wonder if then your comments will still be the same "There are only so many ways to build...." And at that point I'll be arguing with the people that bought your knocked off product who say "I don't care who made it first, I just want cheaper." Then maybe you'll understand what's at stake a little better. Right now it's just side money for you guys. You don't depend on it.I already mentioned that we could discuss/debate the copying thing but I guess you overlooked that.
That's great. Yet everytime the subject comes up nobody from that camp will even deny it's a copy. Closest thing I've ever seen is "There's enough room for everybody." I never knocked the quality.I have used both UPR/BMR products and like Sharad mentioned they are both good companies with products that work.
More on that laterBTW CPR...you asked about the weight difference between UPR/BMR....would you not agree that chrome aloy is lighter than mild steel hence the weight difference? I took your post as a jab at UPR that their product is inferior.
And you didn't answer mine. Where did UPR thin their kmembers out at?You didn't answer my direct question so I will ask again...
And you didn't answer mine. Where did UPR thin their kmembers out at?
CPRsm said:So what parts were thinned out to make the UPR lighter? Something had to be made thinner to make it lighter.
Greg@S&H Performance said:BTW CPR...you asked about the weight difference between UPR/BMR....would you not agree that chrome aloy is lighter than mild steel hence the weight difference? I took your post as a jab at UPR that their product is inferior.
wbt said:I suppose you missed the material each is made from and that was a simple oversight as well...