If you Drag Race, PLEASE weld your axle tubes.

Norm Peterson

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Launching wouldn't twist the passenger side axle tube that way, though it could twist the driver side axle tube in a manner that drove the LCA bracket backward (or at least more backward than the passenger side) for a similar result.

If launching isn't the cause and it was delivered that way there's any number of reasons why it's out of kilter (all involving something not fabricated quite right).


0.63° thrust angle is a huge amount to be off - it's up around a 1/2" difference in fore/aft location out at the wheels. About 3/8" difference in fore/aft position at the axle side LCA bolts.


About the camber - are your rear tires evenly worn, left rear vs right rear? I'm not surprised that they are neither equal nor could they both be made zero at the same time.


Norm
 

Godzirra

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Yea they are evenly worn as far as I can tell and gauge reads exact same tread depth. The right side does sit back about a cm further toward rear of car. I highly doubt the car has bent the BMr brackets but it's possible. Yea either the drivers is pushed back pulling it forward or the passenger side is forward pushing that side back
 
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Sharad

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No problem. And for anyone wondering, here's proof that suspension components from different manufacturers can play nicely together:

uu7t5.jpg


Those are UPR rod-end LCAs mounted in Metco LCA relo brackets after minor fab work and BMR is making a cameo on the left. I also have suspension components by CHE, Strange, and eibach. I'm obviously not a brand loyalist, lol. I carefully look at the slight variations in parts by different manufacturers and decide what is best for me. The only thing that will kill a sale for me is bad customer service, and the guys I buy from are tops in that department.

Nice pic. Thanks for the vote of confidence.


Ok so I'm pretty positive that mine is twisted. My rear toe on left side is .42 and on the right it's -.84 sooo it doesn't seem too too bad. Is it possible to weld them where they are at to prevent further twisting and use adjustable lca's to fix em being cockeyed? Because judging by the eye it doesn't look twisted so it's a minimal twisting ATM. Which I don't think would be too bad effect if just welded them as is then used adjustable lca. I may be wrong here but I'm no suspension guru.

My logic was if right side was twisted to where the lca mount sits closer to the front of the car, it would sit further back in wheel well therefore making it cockeyed and throwing toe off. Thus me thinking twisted out of pumpkin an not bent. Also I accidentally lost the hub centric ring on right side so maybe that's messing camber up. Bottom line is how expensive is it to fix this if it is possible. Is it possible to buy a whole new just axle tube and put it in? I'm assuming a guy who builds for rears should be able to fix this?

Yea they are evenly worn as far as I can tell and gauge reads exact same tread depth. The right side does sit back about a cm further toward rear of car. I highly doubt the car has bent the BMr brackets but it's possible. Yea either the drivers is pushed back pulling it forward or the passenger side is forward pushing that side back

The proper way to fix this is to take the car to a chassis shop and have them cut the housing ends and jig weld them back into place. You don't want to mess around with a misaligned housing. The least you have to worry about is increased parts wear due to improper alignment. But it can get much worse very quickly. (or you can just buy a new housing)
 

BMR Tech

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I agree 100%.

If the axle tubes are not within spec, they really need to be fixed.

Godzirra, do you have access to a laser pointing device that can be mounted and squared properly? You can mount a laser on the factory bracket, and point it to the opposite bracket. The easiest way to ensure the laser is pointing accurately, is to utilize a tube that fits into the factory bolt hole, with a hole that is sightly larger than the laser beam.
 

Godzirra

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I've found a fella the fixes this in the area and has the jig and proper equipment to get it straightened out on our local forum. Gonna get him to weld a few custom braces on it and get some adjustable lca's to get it perfect
 

BMR Tech

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So is it better to have the tubes welded or to get those upr braces?

Define better?

IMO, welding is superior to bracing.

On another note, another person fell victim to the twisted tube this weekend at NMRA.
 

weather man

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Define better?

IMO, welding is superior to bracing.

On another note, another person fell victim to the twisted tube this weekend at NMRA.

Kelly

I looked on your site and did not see a brace. Tell your fabricator to get busy! You guys really should have an offering. Look how well the radiator brace is selling! I do like the brace better than welding.

P.S. If I missed your brace, let me know!
 

GT.350-R

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Define better?

IMO, welding is superior to bracing.

On another note, another person fell victim to the twisted tube this weekend at NMRA.
I'll post pics of the carnage when I get them. He got it tore apart and is taking to Mosier for a revamp.
 

Norm Peterson

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So is it better to have the tubes welded or to get those upr braces?
What I'm hearing here is that the axle tubes twisting is more of a problem than bending. For that, welding would be the answer (and this gets more likely as you drop the axle side LCA pivot lower on relo brackets).


Norm
 

kdanner

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Or you can buy a 2013 GT500 Rear Axle Housing....I am sure it is cheap. lol


I am little concerned by, "increase axle tube diameter slightly for tighter fit"

Hmmmm..... So, the current cars have sloppy axle tubes?

This may be in all Mustangs, unless there is an error on fordparts.com. Shows them all getting a new part # on 4/30.
 

TurboFocus

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Hey Kelly its Jim with the focus. Is the fix to just weld the Axle tubes to the Diff housing on the outside? or is it to drill and add more plug welds
 

BMR Tech

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Hey Kelly its Jim with the focus. Is the fix to just weld the Axle tubes to the Diff housing on the outside? or is it to drill and add more plug welds

What's up sir?!

Well....I personally, always lay a bead of weld around the tube and the diff where they meet.

Here is an example, from Bridge Racing:

tubeweld.jpg



Jim, have you posted your breather set-up on here? I think a lot of people will like it.



kdanner, good info sir. Just goes to show how big of a problem this really is.

I deal with it several times a week.
 

TurboFocus

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What's up sir?!

Well....I personally, always lay a bead of weld around the tube and the diff where they meet.

Here is an example, from Bridge Racing:

tubeweld.jpg



Jim, have you posted your breather set-up on here? I think a lot of people will like it.



kdanner, good info sir. Just goes to show how big of a problem this really is.

I deal with it several times a week.


Thanks for the pic, I'm gonna weld my dads car, then mine when i get it :) and no I haven't posted the pics on here ill do it tomorrow. thanks man
 

Diabolical!

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FYI, you can have the welds done with the rear end on the car. Mine were done with the car on jack stands.
 

Norm Peterson

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I would suggest welding without any weight on the axle. Otherwise it is quite possible that you'll add some negative camber and/or toe back there that you don't want.

Heat + weight on axle tubes is one of the ways us corner-carver types intentionally put a little (or a little more) negative camber into a stick axle.


Norm
 

rayS197

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Nice!! Very imformative thread to help everyone. Car is going in the shop next week to install some go fast parts. Im having the C-Clip elimantors and a Trutrac installed so it might as well be done at that time. Ill have the tubes welded and the axle brace. LOL!!
 

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