Just got 2010 GT with aftermarket CAI....... tune?? gas??

[deezdrama]

Just picked up a 2010 gt today. Its a 2 owner with 80k miles. One of the previous owners put on a roush cold air intake ( https://www.americanmuscle.com/roush-cai-2010gt.html?utm_content=Intake - CAI|Roush&utm_campaign=AMM 2005-2014 Years&utm_source=google-pla&utm_medium=shopping&T5_Var3=blue&T5_Var4=69057&intl=0 ) And the dealer didnt know anything about the mods done. Not sure if exhaust is stock but sounds really good. Had to drive an hour out of town both ways twice and was raining so just checked for rust/leaks/oil/ and test drove it.
Ended up with decent deal.....Just got it home.

They filled the tank up for me but im worried it may have a high octane tune and theres noway for me to know. Should I run premium untill I get a tuner?

This is my first mustang. Ive had several crown vics so have worked on the 2v 4.6's but this is my first 3v and Ive never tuned anything and havnt done any performance modding since I was a teen with old 60's impalas so the whole tuning thing is new to me and need to start doing alot of research.

Anyway....from my understanding , in 2010 they redesigned the CAI to net 15+ HP over previous 4.6s so wouldnt it be pointless to add an aftermarket CAI without a tune? Should I just treat it as having a tune and use premium gas untill I eventually get myself a handheld?

Im sure they put regular gas in it, Its hard not to go full throttle but refrained from flooring it thus far untill i use the tank of gas up and get premium gas.

Also ...filter looks pretty bad, need to check it out closer tomorrow. Is there a replacement filter to buy or I have to buy whole kit?
Any thoughts, points, suggestions?
Thanks!

 

[Brandon08GT]

Personally, I’ve only ever ran premium in my mustang. Did that before a tune and have used the 93 (well 91 when I lived in California) tune for about 40k miles now. My suggestion is get a tune soon and just run premium anyways.

 

[Speedfreak]

Ditto what @Brandon08GT said. Get yourself a handheld tuner and have someone like @lito to tune your car.

With regards to the filter, if it isn’t damaged, you can get a filter cleaning kit and have it cleaned and oiled. I bought an extra filter for my JLT kit. Instead of waiting for the filter to dry after it’s washed, I just swap filters and i’m ready to go. You should be able to buy a replacement filter for your kit.

Congrats on the ‘new’ car!

 

[deezdrama]

Thanks guys.
The end goal is nothing major....
3:73 gears
Longtube headers
Full exhaust
Tune

I have no clue when it comes to tunes.
So i get the handheld.... then i use it to flash tunes that people can compile for me?
The handhelds cant create a "canned" tune themselves through adding mods in a menu system?

Ive never even seen a handheld tuner so dont clown me too hard. Lol

Based on the modest bolt ons i plan.... whats the best handheld for me?

Do i get handheld first and get new tune after each part i get or wait untill its all done and have a tune compiled for my mods?

Im a tune supernoob

 

[bl817]

Welcome and congrats on the new Pony! I looked at the ad for the CAI and it states that no tune is required. so that being said, I would "assume" that other than the CAI, the car is pretty much stock, which is really good. I would also "assume" the car still has the stock tune which is also very good. the 2010 is basically the newer body style wrapped around the 09' drivetrain in both V8 and V6 versions. having the stock tune on the car is imperative if you ever decide to put the car back to stock if you decide to sell in the future. not going to scare you but that's what most ppl do with these cars, so it may look stock but could have been beaten on for a while then put back to stock to sell. hard to tell the history of a car without knowing the previous owners and their story. you are also correct in that Ford redesigned the CAI for 2010 and getting the aftermarket one was kind of a waste. you can go the new route for parts if you want. if you want to save money and aren't in a hurry, keep an eye on your local CL. many Mustang forums/sites have a classified section so scour them as well. as far as the tuner goes, I would look for an SCT version, their latest being the X4 I believe, I have an older 3015/SF3 and it works just fine. they do come with canned tunes and will allow you to adjust some things like tire size, fan temp turn on, idle, rev limiter, etc. make sure if you purchase a used one that it is unlocked and has at least 1 pair/marry left. the actual tuning ranges from generic email tunes to high dollar dyno tunes. I have Brenspeed email tunes and have been running them for about 3 years now with no issues. there are multiple email tune developers out there. AM has Bama with tunes for life. I wouldn't use them if they were free. WAY too many issues with cars not running right, having to datalog and send in to tweak a tune. there are tons of ppl on these forums that come for help after using Bama. Lito, Steeda, Brenspeed are just a few. depending on your timeline, you could buy all the parts you want then get a tune for them so your not adding, flashing, adding, flashing over and over. every time you want to update a tune, you need to put the stock tune back on the car, download new emailed tune to the tuner, then go back to the car and upload/flash new tune to the car. I always get a bit nervous when I go to update my tuner and have to put the stock tune back on the car, I know in my mind its going to work just fine but ive read to many stories of ppl locking up their comp because they didn't wait long enough for the process to finish, battery was to low. there are some horror stories out there. if you have emissions testing in your area, I would shy away from headers, catless exhaust, OR midpipes etc. not really worth the headache and cost IMHO. I would say your good to run 87 or 91 octane with no issues and that's "assuming" your car is still stock. as stated above, you can get a new filter or just wash and re oil yours. sorry for the long rambling reply, just want to give you info. again Welcome and good luck!

 

[deezdrama]

No.... I will take all the info I can get and appreciate it!

 

[skwerl]

I wouldn't worry about getting a custom dyno tune as all of the good tuners have nailed down their 3v tunes already. My personal recommendation is VMP although there are several well known and very good tuners who can deliver a very good canned tune to you without any hiccups. Most will use the SCT tuner and software.

You can buy a new SCT handheld from your tuner or pick up a used one. The handheld is simply a vessel to carry the tune file from your email and install it into your car's computer. Many tuners might have used handhelds available as trade ins from customers upgrading to the newest versions. If you are like me and consider the tune a 'set it and forget it' thing then virtually any used SCT handheld will work. I will use mine for pulling codes when the check engine light comes on but that's about it.

 

[Brandon08GT]

Purchase your handheld first, either new or if you can find a good used SCT that is unmarried, that would be a good option as well. You can buy one that is married, but you will have to have SCT unlock it, for a fee of course, so might as well buy new at that point.

My suggestion for tune would be Lito. You can try to PM him on here, search for him on Facebook with his name Manuel Pazo, or email him at [email protected]. He can walk you step by step in the email tuning process. To be clear of my unbiased opinion, I do not have a tune by him (dyno tune by a very good mustang tuner) but if I were to email tune, he would be the man I would go to. Very knowledgeable on the 3 valve nuances and is very helpful. Has helped me a few times and never asks for anything in return.

 

[CammedS197]

+1 on Lito. Absolutely great guy! He's helped me out in a pinch when I need a tune due to hurricanes and no 91 or 93 available and I have a new tune before I'm done pumping gas. But the drive-ability on my car is just amazing. I'm cammed and longtubes and the whole bolt on crap shoot and car is strong down low and up top. Lots of power with all the great drive-ability. Easy driving when you want it an turns into an animal when you want.

 

[deezdrama]

Ill pick up a sct handheld in the next couple weeks. When taxes come ill get my longtubes and exhaust and wait untill its all on to tune. Will give me time to look into the tuner guys that are suggested here.

Im on the fence about switching to 3:73 gears. Ive swapped gears before but was 20 years ago in an old chevy. Dont want to screw up backlash. I wouldnt know where to take it around here without getting raped.

 

[CammedS197]

Lito can give you a good start up tune in your email and you can have it ready on a handheld for wen install is done. His initial tune was better than a dyno tune I had. They are tuned the same way. One is just on a dyno to get the datalog and his you are driving on the street getting the data from real world driving which in my opinion is a plus cause you get real world data and loads on the motor vs on the dyno.

 

[CammedS197]

Ill pick up a sct handheld in the next couple weeks. When taxes come ill get my longtubes and exhaust and wait untill its all on to tune. Will give me time to look into the tuner guys that are suggested here.

Im on the fence about switching to 3:73 gears. Ive swapped gears before but was 20 years ago in an old chevy. Dont want to screw up backlash. I wouldnt know where to take it around here without getting raped.

I'm planning on doing gears too. 3.73's as well. A shop near by is going to be my go when I do it. What gears do you have now? I have the factory 3.55's. Been on the fence about 4.10's. Just not sure yet.

 

[deezdrama]

I have no clue... wont have a day off untill sun to really go through the car. Got something vibrating in the trunk at low rpm thats driving me nuts too

 

[Pentalab]

Is it an auto..or a manual ? I have a 2010 Black GT, auto. Came with a 3.31 rear gear. I left the 3.31 rear gear as is. Reason is.... 2nd gear on the auto is 14% lower than 2nd gear in the manual. 3rd gear in the auto is 16.5% lower than 3rd gear in the manual.

If you have a manual, and it came with a 3.31 rear gear, I would swap it to a 3.73
If it came with a 3.55 I would leave it alone. If it's an auto, and came with the 3.31 I would leave it alone.

 

[retfr8flyr]

It's been pretty well established that for gears, 4.10's in the manual and 3.73's in the auto have worked out best for most guys. Most of the reputable tune shops, like VMP, will sell you an SCT tuner with a tune for your intake included.

 

[deezdrama]

Yeah... i got the auto

 

[Pentalab]

It's been pretty well established that for gears, 4.10's in the manual and 3.73's in the auto have worked out best for most guys. Most of the reputable tune shops, like VMP, will sell you an SCT tuner with a tune for your intake included.

When I bought my tune from VMP, I also bought the SCT-X3 from them at the same time..... with the VMP tune pre-loaded onto the X3. Then it's just plug n play after that.

I have the small M90 blower on my 2010 + twin 62mm TB + JBA ceramic LT's and mating jba high flow catted H + FRPP FRS-500 mufflers.... then welded in a pair of pypes M80 resonators. Then the usual ton of suspension mods, Roush front + rear lowering springs, shocks, struts, steeda front strut mounts with camber adjustment. Eaton tru trac differential + whiteline watts link, DSS-DS, steeda front + rear stbs, steeda subframe braces welded in. BMR rear tunnel brace + safety loop. FRPP K frame brace, BMR A arm brace, pair of steeda braces for the roush front sway bar. Then the upgraded brake rotors, pads, ATE brake fluid, SS / teflon brake lines, front brake ducts onto the cdc lower front spoiler. Roush side splitters below the rocker panels, 2012 GT-500 rear lower bumper + 2012 GT-500 rear spoiler + gurnery flap. BMR LCA's, bmr adjustable UCA, bmr lca relocate brackets..in middle holes.

Ok, now no more nose diving when braking. Front end doesn't lift a mile when u punch it. -1.7 deg of camber on the fronts. Doesn't lean... in left or right turns.

Unless you are drag racing at the strip, and /or using tall 28-29" sticky rear tires, I see no benefit with a 3.73 or 4.10 rear gear. As is, at a red light, starting off in 3rd gear, mash the gas, shriek of rubber..and off you go.... to aprx 95 mph @ 6 krpm where the 3-4 shift occurs. As is, starting off in Drive, burns the rear 285-40-18's in 1st gear..and on the verge of losing traction in 2nd gear. ( 4+ krpm).

A 3.73 or 4.10 rear gear on an automatic would be fine for an NA car. Doing the maths, you would require a 3.73 rear gear on a manual in 2nd gear to be aprx the same as an auto in 2nd gear with a 3.31 rear gear. The manual would require a 3.90 rear gear to be aprx the same as the auto in 3rd gear with a 3.31 rear gear. 2nd gear on the auto is 14% lower than 2nd gear in the manual. 3rd gear in the auto is 16.5% lower than 3rd gear in the manual. Both the manual + auto are 1:1 in 4th gear.

With a 4.10 rear gear, your max speed in each gear will be exactly 80% vs the oem 3.31 rear gear. If you do a lot of hwy driving, your gas mileage will be down. Right now, I'm 2100 rpm in 5th..at 70 mph. With a 4.10 gear, it would spin at 2601 rpm at the same 70 mph in 5th.

As is, In 4th gear, I'm at 100 mph @ 4 krpm.... 125 mph @ 5krpm..... and 150 mph @ 6 krpm.

The 13/14 GT-500 does 60 mph....in 1st gear. I'm 60 mph in 2nd gear....and both cars use the same 3.31 rear gear. 13/14 GT-500's 1st gear is identical to my 2nd gear.. The 13/14 GT-500 is still a spinfest in 1st gear.

My max speeds with oem 3.31 rear gear @ 6 krpm.
1st - 43.5 mph
2nd - 62.1 mph
3rd - 93.2 mph
4th- 150 mph

With the 2010 auto, with any amount of power mods, for street / hwy use, I'd leave the oem 3.31 rear gear alone. It comes with an oem 1500 rpm stall converter. Interesting enough, the LT's + high flow cats made the biggest difference, blatantly obvious. With just the addition of the VMP 94 tune + FRPP twin 62mm TB, I saw no difference, very subtle. Then the LT's were installed, whole different animal, pulls a lot harder in all gears.
Ran a bit lean on the dyno after the LT install, so VMP e-mailed another tune, fixed the issue. B4 the 2nd tune, it was 394 rwhp + 376 rwtq...all done in 4th gear. In 1-2-3rd gear, tq gets multiplied by the lower tranny gear ratio's. 285's rear tires barely work, so the 305's will be installed this spring.

 

[deezdrama]

Finally no rain today and could get under the car. Has stock manifolds, cats / h pipe. Catbacks....not sure whats going on.... looks like they deleted mufflers and welded straight pipes in, axle back is kind of a cobbled mess.

Trying to plan what im going to do.
Would longtubes be worth the price/effort? How much hp would i likely be sitting at with the roush cai, longtubes, catless h-pipe, catback etc., and a brenspeed tune?
Probably get my sct handheld from them and the free tune.

I love the way it sounds now so if i wouldnt get noticeable gains with full exhaust then i might just leave it.
In my 07 vic 2v 4.6 i have gutted cats , thrush welded muffs and 3" tips and it sounds amazing but almost too loud and drones bad. I really like the way it sounds now but once a offroad h pipe is on I know it will be super loud and need to decide on mufflers.
I like that low throaty sound but dont want obnoxious loud.

Its got the 3.31 gears.
Id like to eventually get 3.73s and some cams but still researching into the cams.
Will be installing myself and doesnt look bad, just need the chain tensioner wedge tool.
Just need to make sure its still good as daily driver and wont shorten life of the motor.
Its got 83k on it now and only drive about 5k a year and will be using nothi g but mobil 1 full synthetic.

Had a long day at work and im tired and kind of incoherently rambling so I guess im just asking if headers/full exhaust is worth the price and install time and if theres any component brand suggestions on a budget minded pocket?

Thanks guys.

 

[Brandon08GT]

Headers really woke my car up and if I could do it again, I would’ve a lot sooner. I had a O/R pipe for a couple years before my Longtubes, and after Longtubes, still with O/R pipe, the car wasn’t as loud on cold starts, which made me happier. It’s still loud, but doesn’t wake the zombies in the backyard of houses a block over anymore. Installed mine when I built the bottom end and had my motor bored so I can’t say for a direct HP difference. But if I could do it again, I would’ve done it a long time ago.

 

[CammedS197]

Finally no rain today and could get under the car. Has stock manifolds, cats / h pipe. Catbacks....not sure whats going on.... looks like they deleted mufflers and welded straight pipes in, axle back is kind of a cobbled mess.

Trying to plan what im going to do.
Would longtubes be worth the price/effort? How much hp would i likely be sitting at with the roush cai, longtubes, catless h-pipe, catback etc., and a brenspeed tune?
Probably get my sct handheld from them and the free tune.

I love the way it sounds now so if i wouldnt get noticeable gains with full exhaust then i might just leave it.
In my 07 vic 2v 4.6 i have gutted cats , thrush welded muffs and 3" tips and it sounds amazing but almost too loud and drones bad. I really like the way it sounds now but once a offroad h pipe is on I know it will be super loud and need to decide on mufflers.
I like that low throaty sound but dont want obnoxious loud.

Its got the 3.31 gears.
Id like to eventually get 3.73s and some cams but still researching into the cams.
Will be installing myself and doesnt look bad, just need the chain tensioner wedge tool.
Just need to make sure its still good as daily driver and wont shorten life of the motor.
Its got 83k on it now and only drive about 5k a year and will be using nothi g but mobil 1 full synthetic.

Had a long day at work and im tired and kind of incoherently rambling so I guess im just asking if headers/full exhaust is worth the price and install time and if theres any component brand suggestions on a budget minded pocket?

Thanks guys.

View attachment 66351

View attachment 66352

Heres mine which are really deep, throaty, and crisp. I do have longtubes and off road H. They say the volume of the MBRP are equal to the borla tourings. I have never heard the MBRP with cats. But I can say with my set up it is quieter than when I had borla stingers but as loud when WOT.