LED turn signals and no hyperflashing

[1950StangJump$]

2008 GT

Just installed the first "switch back" LED and decided to test before tapping the wires for installation of the included resistors. Surprisingly, they performed perfectly without said resistors.

If I leave the resistors off, are they likely to start acting goofy at some point? I would have thought they'd do it first time out, but maybe the older S197s didn't need the resistors?

I'd love to leave the resistors off since they get hot, but I also don't want to have to pull the shit apart twice ...

 

[FrankieD]

I installed them in my 09 GT no problems in 3 years no resistor got them from American Muscle

 

[1950StangJump$]

I installed them in my 09 GT no problems in 3 years no resistor got them from American Muscle

thanks ... Will give it a shot.

You get these and just choose to leave the included resistors off?

https://www.americanmuscle.com/raxiom-switchback-turn-signal-0512.html

 

[07gts197]

You can turn hyperflash off with Forscan if you want.


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[AHaze]

I've had cheap LED signal and brake bulbs in my '05 for years with no issues. No resistors needed. Oddly enough, the cheap reverse bulbs wouldn't work and I had to pony up for CANBUS bulbs there.

 

[07gts197]

I have Phillips led bulbs in my reverse lights on my 07 with no issues. They aren’t much better than incandescent bulbs though.


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[xeninworx]

I’ve wanted to change the bulbs in my 2014 headlights to LED but it was a pain in the ass just to change the HID bulbs and don’t want to tackle the turn signal bulbs.

 

[Deathstang II]

My '05 needed them with JDM LEDs (Front turn signals in any way). I just put some cheap resistors for both and called it a day. If you mount them properly heat isn't an issue.

 

[Mogwai]

The resistor (or CANBUS circuit) is to reduce the voltage due to the LED which use less volt/amp/power. But the older vehicles use the Flashing Unit design for a Incandescent light bulb. Other system on the market (Switch-Backs, Sequential....) has built in circuits. I replace my 2013 Fronts turn signal to LED the right adapted and flash normal but left hyper-flash. Try swapping the bulbs still the same. Placing the resistor defeated the purpose of reducing power usage. Converting to HID systems (ebays) already has built in circuit.

All IC LED is powered by 3.2-3.7V DC (Not the old OLED) but the Automotive system is 12V DC, charging about 15V DC. But by Place 3 in Series and a resister in circuit well that is why most strips you can cut every 3 LED's. All LED in House is the same there is a Inverter which converts the 120V AC to 12V DC. Some uses a 24v or 32V-36V DC which is 2 or 3 12v DC in a Series Circuit.

 

[MrBhp]

The resistor (or CANBUS circuit) is to reduce the voltage due to the LED which use less volt/amp/power. But the older vehicles use the Flashing Unit design for a Incandescent light bulb. Other system on the market (Switch-Backs, Sequential....) has built in circuits. I replace my 2013 Fronts turn signal to LED the right adapted and flash normal but left hyper-flash. Try swapping the bulbs still the same. Placing the resistor defeated the purpose of reducing power usage. Converting to HID systems (ebays) already has built in circuit.

All IC LED is powered by 3.2-3.7V DC (Not the old OLED) but the Automotive system is 12V DC, charging about 15V DC. But by Place 3 in Series and a resister in circuit well that is why most strips you can cut every 3 LED's. All LED in House is the same there is a Inverter which converts the 120V AC to 12V DC. Some uses a 24v or 32V-36V DC switch is 2 or 3 12v DC in a Parallel Circuit.

I have no fucking idea what you just said. But I think I like it.

 

[Robert Larimer]

The resistor (or CANBUS circuit) is to reduce the voltage due to the LED which use less volt/amp/power. But the older vehicles use the Flashing Unit design for a Incandescent light bulb. Other system on the market (Switch-Backs, Sequential....) has built in circuits. I replace my 2013 Fronts turn signal to LED the right adapted and flash normal but left hyper-flash. Try swapping the bulbs still the same. Placing the resistor defeated the purpose of reducing power usage. Converting to HID systems (ebays) already has built in circuit.

All IC LED is powered by 3.2-3.7V DC (Not the old OLED) but the Automotive system is 12V DC, charging about 15V DC. But by Place 3 in Series and a resister in circuit well that is why most strips you can cut every 3 LED's. All LED in House is the same there is a Inverter which converts the 120V AC to 12V DC. Some uses a 24v or 32V-36V DC switch is 2 or 3 12v DC in a Parallel Circuit.

The resistor only functions when turn signals are on. An Led there for the parking lights still provides plenty of power savings over conventional bulbs. They are on whenever the headlights are on. I love my switchback bulbs too.

 

[Mogwai]

The resistor only functions when turn signals are on. An Led there for the parking lights still provides plenty of power savings over conventional bulbs. They are on whenever the headlights are on. I love my switchback bulbs too.

Let agree to disagree. The post was about LED turn signals and I did mention Flashing Unit. And you are correct the resistor is only energized in a turn signal application but it is needed to fake the Flashing Unit to believed nothing change. A LED bulb design will use less energy and will last much longer, 1W LED is same as 10W Incandescent light bulb. A Incandescent 1156/27w is replace with 1156/6W (Depends on the SMD) LED lm/w is the reason it is brighter but you're not really saving that much power/energy. The issue is the heat which is produce and can not be dissipated from the circuit or LED. Any Electrical device converts the energy it consumes to heat and If the heat is not removed. Well I believe you know what happens.

 

[DieHarder]

Any Electrical device converts the energy it consumes to heat and If the heat is not removed. Well I believe you know what happens.

Correct, which is why anyone using LEDs and needs resistors (to make the circuit work) should use the heavy duty ones w/heat sinks and mount them to metal to dissipate the heat. IMO needed most often for running lights/markers; not really needed for turn signals unless you're having a hyper flash issue. I needed to install one for the trunk light in my car because I wanted to use an LED light instead of the old incandescent because it's brighter and burned out all too often and would not work without it. Picked one up at the local auto parts store; installed it, works great.

In fact, they're pictured in the link in post #3: https://www.americanmuscle.com/raxiom-switchback-turn-signal-0512.html

I wouldn't use those POS quick connects however. Do yourself a favor and use butt connectors at least. If in an exposed location (like turn signals) you might want to solder them in followed by heat shrink. They'll last longer guaranteed.